Varirata National Park

Varirata National Park is a large area of closed, wet forest, open savanna and marginal habitats, situated about 40km north-east of the capital. It's the most accessible 'real' habitat close to Port Moresby, and holds a good selection of lowland forest species, plus a few 'hill' birds.

We actually got to spend two days at Varirata - one at the start of the tour, and a bonus day, 'semi-detached' from the next Rockjumper tour group, birding the trails on our own, armed only with a low-power laptop and a few bird calls from Xeno-canto to assist us! But we still found White-faced Robin, Goldenface (=Dwarf Whistler) and Chestnut-backed Jewel-babbler (a mythical bird if ever there was) and lots more besides!

The "official" day was also very productive, starting off in style with a visit to a raucous, spectacular Raggiana BoP lek site - an incredible start to the PNG forest experience.

Other BoPs added later in the day were Growling Riflebird and Magnificent (poorly seen).

We added lots in the open clearing by the trailheads - several Cuckoo-shrike species, Zoe and Pinon Imperial Pigeons, Hooded Pitohui, Marbled Frogmouth, Papuan King and Eclectus Parrots, Chestnut-bellied Fantail, Fairy Gerygone and several Monarchs - Frilled (looking leonine), Black-faced and Spot-winged.

A real highlight was a roosting Barred Owlet-nightjar high in a eucalyptus - yet another new family!

In the forests, quietly working the trails, we scored heavily with Russet Paradise-kingfisher (a startlingly beautiful bird, glowing in the deep shade), Wompoo Fruit-dove, Yellow-breasted Boatbill, Pygmy Drongo and Long-billed Honeyeater - and saw the mounds (only) of our first megapode, Black-billed Brush-turkey.

Finally a bit of time in the savanna habitat added yet more great new birds - Hooded Butcherbird, White-throated Honeyeater, Forest Kingfisher, White-bellied Whistler, Leaden Flycatcher and Black-capped Lory.

In short, Varirata was very, very productive, and we saw many species only at this site. But by now we were ready for the mountains....