Sri Lanka,
December 2004 - January 2005

This trip report is a record of an ultimately frivolous and unimportant fortnight in the lives of two very, very lucky, relatively wealthy and rather humbled European tourists. It is dedicated to the memories of the 250,000+ people who lost their lives in the tsunami of 26th December 2004 - Europeans (certainly including people out birding), Indonesians, Thais, Burmese, Indians, Somalis, but above all in our hearts, over 34,000 Sri Lankans. This was one birding trip we shall never be able to forget.

We were incredibly fortunate to have arrived in Colombo just hours after the Great Tsunami - we were not affected directly in any way. We had seriously considered travelling exactly a week earlier - had we done so, we would have been in Yala NP on Boxing Day: many foreign tourists died there that day. We found some caked, torn and blasted pages form a bird book among the ruins. If you ever feel that missing a rare endemic bird even approaches being bad news, this sort of thing will make you think again.

Sri Lanka offers easy winter sunshine (and a bit of rain!), good logistics and hotels, but above all a wealth of tropical oriental species, including upwards of thirty endemics. We saw almost all of them! Big highlights were Red-faced Malkoha, Green-billed Coucal, Sri Lanka Blue Magpie, Sri Lanka Myna, White-faced Starling, Sri Lanka Whistling Thrush, Spot-winged Thrush, Legge's Flowerpecker, Sri Lanka Shama and many more. Many of these were in the very humid, leech-infested forests of Sinharaja. Non-endemics 'specials' included Pied Thrush, Brown Wood Owl, Kashmir Flycatcher, Sykes's Warbler, Sirkeer Malkoha and more.

Mammals were also good: Asian Elephant, wild Water Buffalo, various deer and monkey species; and an Indian Cobra was another 'highlight'...

Read the full blow-by-blow report!

White-browed Fantail
White-browed Fantail, Embilipitiya
Brown-breasted Flycatcher
Brown-breasted Flycatcher, Kitulgala
Crested Serpent-eagle
Crested Serpent-eagle, Udawalawe
Plaintive Cuckoo
Plaintive Cuckoo, Udawalawe
Sri Lanka Frogmouth
Sri Lanka Frogmouth, Kitulgala
Changeable Hawk-eagle
Changeable Hawk-Eagle, Udawalawe
Tickell's Blue Flycatcher
Tickell's Blue Flycatcher, Kitulgala
Kashmir Flycatcher
Kashmir Flycatcher, Horton Plains
Sri Lanka Junglefowl
Sri Lanka Junglefowl, Yala
Common Iora
Common Iora, Yala
Sri Lanka Blue Magpie
Sri Lanka Blue Magpie, Sinharaja
Blue-faced Malkoha
Blue-faced Malkoha, Udawalawe
Brown Fish-owl
Brown Fish Owl, Udawattakele
Sri Lanka Woodpigeon
Sri Lanka Woodpigeon,
Near Nuwara Eliya
Chestnut-backed Owlet
Chestnut-backed Owlet, Kitulgala
Brown Wood-owl
Brown Wood-owl, Udawattakele
Indian Robin
Indian Robin, Yala
Indian Pitta
Indian Pitta, Kitulgala
Flying Fox
Flying Fox, Kandy
White-rumped Shama
Sri Lanka Shama, Udawattakele
Chital
Chital, Yala
Indian Elephant
Indian Elephant, Udawalawe