Isalo

Isalo was really just a stopover between the coast and Ranomafana, but it was well worth it, with one highly localised endemic bird. Moreover, the site is famed for its extraordinary limestone rock formations. Another geological feature of the area is the emerging sapphire industry - the nearby town of Ilakaka, now thriving, did not even exist ten years ago. The weather was dry and very pleasant during our short stay here.

The hotel Relais de la Reine was quite spectacular, built into the amazing rocky landscape. The whole place was extremely plush, with a scenic pool, gorgeous surroundings and a luxurious room. Unfortunately two of us - Rainer and Julia - were not well here, and so couldn't make the most of it. We also bumped into a Naturetrek group here, whose leader Cliff Waller had led the trip on which we first met ten years ago!

In our short time here we did see the major target bird, Benson's Rock Thrush, which was nesting around the hotel and in the stable-block. The other spectacular find here was a superb Comet Moth with its incredible long tails, and some Four-spotted Day Geckos. The hotel grounds contained many of the endemic Madagascar plants, including the peculiar stunted Pachypodia, and some tame and easily photographed commoner birds.

Shortly after departure, we were really lucky to connect with a stunning immature male Madagascar Harrier quartering over the grasslands.