Anjozorobe

Anjozorobe is an immensely important site, home as it is to one of the very last remaining fragments of highland plateau forest in Madagascar. An extant block of 66,500ha of upland forest (much of it elfin or dwarf type) supports a wide range of birds at low densities, as well as important populations of many endemic herptiles and plants. Surrounding lakes and grasslands also support interesting species. It was generally cool at Anjozorobe, with some light drizzle.

We had an extremely long drive to Anjozorobe from Perinet, which took about seven hours in four-wheel drive cars. We failed, for the second time, to see Madagascar Pratincole, but did score with deep-filled coconut macaroon tartlets from a roadside patisserie. We even lost the exhaust on our car, as the road, or track, was quite rutted and full of pot-holes for much of the journey.

This was definitely our favourite place on the whole trip. Mananara Lodge was situated in really remote surroundings and was simply gorgeous, with extremely plush wooden cabins with an open fire, a bath and even a hairdryer (this latter feature being a first in ten years of travelling)! The only downside of the place was that it was here that our friend Tom had his most spectacular fall from the balcony of his room. It turned out later that he'd broken four ribs! At the time he just soldiered on for the rest of the trip, guzzling painkillers. The pain would have felled a lesser man, but he is a Real Birder. As he said, 'Birding is a disease with no known cure. All you can do is treat the symptoms!'

In our time here we had Madagascar Partridge at the lodge, baited with cooked rice. In the forest there were Pitta-like Ground-roller, Madagascar Wood-rail, an elusive Brown Emutail, the beautiful Common Sunbird-asity and excellent views of Crossley's Babbler. At the nearby eutrophic lakes we managed to find Meller's Duck, and also Madagascar Snipe and Madagascar Rail. Frustratingly Grey Emutail wouldn't show, although we heard the bird calling.

The best feature of our time here, however, was the night walks with Julien, our guide, who was expert at finding chameleons. We saw Short-horned, Parson's, Boettger's and Band-bellied Chameleons. In addition, there were also several little Brookesia species, and a Weasel Sportive Lemur. Notwithstanding all these exciting animals, our ultimate prize for attending all the night walks was the finding of an amazing Fantastic Leaf-tailed Gecko by Glen, one of our Rockjumper guides. This was a tick for him too! He was in a state of rapturous sleep-deprived ecstasy as a result!