Northern India,
December 2001 - January 2002

22nd December

Our BA flight departed Heathrow only slightly late at 1900 on 21st, and arrived almost on time in Delhi at 1115 next day. After the usual interminable immigration and money changing antics, we met up with Raj, who soon had us on our way with our driver, Mr. Mahinder Singh. Today was down for jetlag recovery and travel, and we were soon speeding through the countryside on good roads towards Jaipur. We were soon scoring en route with 'easy' species such as Bank Myna, Indian Pied Myna, Black-winged Kite, Rose-ringed Parakeet, White-throated Kingfisher, Red-wattled Lapwing, Black Drongo, Indian Roller, Indian Robin, Long-tailed Shrike and so on, and we also picked up good birds such as Black-headed Bunting and a single Oriental Turtle Dove. We stopped a couple of times for drinks and leg stretching, seeing Brown Rock Chat at Amber Fort near Jaipur, plus our first Indian Peafowl and a few waders by the Monsoon Palace. It was well after dark that we finally reached the Hotel Jhoomer Bawri.

23rd December

To the Tiger Reserve! Our jeep arrived on cue at 0615, and we were soon freezing our respective bits off in the chill dawn air - like we cared! We had a party of Painted Sandgrouse in flight before reaching the park, and almost the first bird we saw after the gates was a cracking Brown Fish Owl, perched and in flight. Good start! While our prime target was Tiger and other mammals (of which we saw Chital, Sambar, Nilgai, Hanuman Langur, Northern Palm Squirrel and Indian Gazelle), we were not ignoring the superb birds! Various common waterbirds at the lakes were accompanied by Cotton Pygmy Goose (a.k.a. Quacky Duck - the world's best bird name), Purple Swamphens, Oriental Darter, Indian Cormorant and White-rumped and Long-billed Vultures. It was good to see at least a few of the latter, both of which have declined by 95%+ in India in recent years....

We got close to a Tiger too - but couldn't see it! The pugmarks were fresh, and the alarm calls sounded good, but the animal just wouldn't emerge from cover. Further birds around the park included Crested Serpent Eagle, Jungle and Large Grey Babblers, Bay-backed Shrike, Grey Francolin and Brahminy Starling. Back at the hotel over lunch, further good birds came in the form of Small Minivet, Common Iora, Plum-headed Parakeet, Hume's Warbler, Crested Honey Buzzard, Rufous Treepie, Common Woodshrike, Red-breasted Flycatcher and Eurasian Stone-curlew.

After an hour's negotiation with the jeep company when it looked like our afternnon jeep ride was going to be shifted to a canter (= communal open lorry - no good at all), due to the visit of a supposed VIP, we finally got our jeep as booked, and set off at 2.30ish for another ride round the park. It was rather quiet to begin with, but towards dusk, birds and animals got more active. Sadly, we could again find no Tiger - the bad news is that just a few days ago up to 15 Tiger bodies were seized near Delhi, including at least one from Ranthambore. We all felt pretty sick at such appalling news.

We scored on the bird front with Alexandrine Parakeet, Asian Palm Swift, Spotted Dove, Pheasant-tailed Jacana, Osprey, Tawny Eagle, Shikra, Asian Magpie-robin, Dusky Crag Martin, Lesser Whistling Duck, Painted Stork and Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher. Also, we saw Mugger Crocodile, Wild Boar and a pair of Golden Jackals.

24th December

Julia had a bad night in the gut department - she was in no state to go out in a Jeep. So just three of us headed out at dawn - we encountered roughly the same birds, plus a Black Stork and Coppersmith Barbet...but did we see a Tiger? No! We got closer still, however, and tracked fresh pugmarks for 2 miles along the sandy tracks. But not quite close enough....

Fortunately, Julia was feeling well enough to travel by lunchtime. We left Ranthambore and headed out across agricultural plains on the lengthy journey to Bharatpur. Early on in the journey, the road was truly appalling, and we made only snail's pace progress. Along the way, however, we picked up new species such as Rosy Starling, Asian Green Bee-eater, Great Grey Shrike, and three Common Cranes, all species that we did not see elsewhere on our trip. In addition, a few Pied Bushchats, Brown-throated Martins, and various roadside waders enlivened proceedings.

By the time we reached Bharatpur, it was getting dark - it was hard for the three of us who had not been there before to believe that we were in the middle of one of the world's premier wetland bird reserves!

25th December

As expected, a bird-packed day! We tried to get a bit of pre-breakfast birding in, but it was just too foggy - we only began seriously looking after about 8 o'clock. Very quickly we were seeing crippling birds. Within minutes we had seen both Indian Scops Owl and Dusky Eagle-Owl (the latter at the nest), Black-winged Kite and Olive-backed Pipit. There were Greenish and Hume's Leaf Warblers in most patches of trees, and Red-breasted Flycatchers appeared frequently. Bluethroats darted in and out of the wet ditches. Out on the wetter areas by the main track, numerous waterbirds were obvious - various Egrets and herons, Painted Storks, Bronze-winged Jacana, Black-headed and Glossy Ibis, Bar-headed and Greylag Geese, numerous ducks including a few Spot-billed Ducks, Comb Ducks and Cotton Pygmy Geese, Purple Swamphens and scores of Citrine Wagtails. Particularly popular were at least four absolutely magnificent Black-necked Storks - incredible birds.

We paused for a few photos and a break at the temple, and then headed off on the loop around the Mansarovar lagoon. In the bushes, we were picking up passerines like Asian Magpie-robin, Plain Prinia, Common and Yellow-eyed Babblers, Blyth's Reed Warbler, Common Chiffchaff, White-eared Bulbul and some very smart eastern Black Redstarts. The Mansarovar area was the best for waterbirds - hundreds of perhaps 50 species at a time, including, rarest of all, two superb Siberian Cranes, the only remaining known birds of the central wintering population. Raptors were now getting up too, and we were seeing numerous Greater Spotted Eagles, plus Tawny Eagle, Crested Serpent Eagle, several Eastern Imperial Eagles, including a fine adult, Egyptian and Red-headed Vultures, Western Marsh Harrier and a crippling male Pallid Harrier. A Turkestan Shrike got some serious grilling too.

By now it was mid-afternoon, and we began dawdling homewards, via a superb group of Indian Rock Pythons sunning under the acacia scrub at Python Point. Extra birds picked up included lots of Stonechats, Bay-backed and Long-tailed Shrikes, a Wryneck, Tawny Pipit and a couple of Red Avadavats in with a flock of Indian Silverbills.

The park was very busy by four o'clock, and we were shattered - the last hour of daylight was spent around the hotel! 117 species, without even really trying!

26th December

Boxing Day - all healthy! We met up with Jagdish Prasad, a guide Raj had recommended for us, at 7.30am, and headed off into the woods. We were hoping he could find us a few of the trickier dry land birds we hadn't yet seen. We started off around the Nursery, soon scoring with Indian Grey Hornbill, Brown-headed Barbet, Ashy Drongo, Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, Spotted Owlet, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon and Indian Nuthatch. A regular spot for Tickell's Thrush was too busy (Monkeys!) by the time we got there, alas.

We birded slowly along the wooded tracks by the Hanuman temple, seeing goodies like Crested Honey Buzzard en route, before Jagdish took us into the woods for a staked out roost of Large-tailed Nightjar. He found us not one but two of them, a pair, roosting on ground about 10 metres apart. Fantastic views and photos had by all!

A few hundred yards later on, a bird flew up from a wet ditch to the trees - Tickell's Thrush! This was a major target bird for Simon, and he thoroughly enjoyed excellent views.

It was getting hot and a bit busy again by now, and we headed off along the brick path trail to escape the crowds by the temple. This is reputed to be a good spot for Spotted Creeper, but sadly we did not connect. We did, however, manage to locate a roosting Indian Nightjar, high in a snag of a dead tree. Nilgai and Sambar kept us company in the dry fields beyond the lagoons.

Quick fire lists of birds don't really do Bharatpur justice. Although 2001 had been quite a dry year, there were still tons of waterbirds about - wherever you looked there were Oriental Darters, Indian Pond-herons, Medium and Eastern Cattle Egrets, Glossy Ibis and more besides. We took a punt ride late in the afternoon - very quiet and relaxing, even when Simon did the punting for a bit! - scoring further with Shikra, Asian Openbill, White-tailed Lapwing, more Black-necked Storks, Sarus Crane and numerous Kingfishers. Bharatpur remains one of Simon's favourite birding spots on Earth.

27th December

Today was essentially a non-birding travel day - Bharatpur to Nainital, some 400km....

In dense fog, we left early and headed for Agra, where we did homage to the standard tourist trail at the Taj Mahal. Not that we left our bins behind - River Lapwing, Ruddy Shelduck and lots of Black Kites and Egyptian Vultures were on the Yamuna River behind the Taj.

The journey was indeed long, but really entertaining, passing as we did through big towns and smll villages, the usual chaos of Indian streetlife ensuring interest at every turn, and the countryside leaving us impressed at how many birds there are in intensely farmed areas, at least compared with Britain! Indian Rollers, Black Drongos, shrikes, kingfishers, herons and egrets, doves and mynas everywhere - never a dull moment! We even had brief views of Indian River Tern over the Ganges en route!

We didn't hit the hills until after dark, and Mahinder drove us expertly up precipitous mountain roads to our destination, the hill station of Nainital. It was bizarre to round a bend after 35km of darkness and find a humming little town beside a floodlit lake at 2000m+! We checked in to the Vikram Vintage Inn, and immediately ordered hot water bottles - as expected, it was pretty cold up here!

28th December

Crisp and cold this morning in Nainital - excellent! A quick look around the hotel before breakfast produced a Red-billed Blue Magpie and an Oriental Turtle Dove, but it was clear that bird activity was still subdued, at least until the sun got up properly. So we tanked up on toast etc., and set off through wooded lanes towards town. We made fantastically slow progress - almost every bird was a tick! Within minutes we had scored with Grey Bushchat, Rufous Sibia, Bar-tailed Treecreeper, White-tailed Nuthatch, Blue-fronted and Blue-capped Redstarts, Plumbeous Water Redstart, Himalayan Bulbul, Green-backed and Black-throated Tits, Buff-barred and Grey-headed Warblers, Oriental White-eye, Streaked Laughingthrush and numerous Blue Whistling Thrushes. It took us a good two hours to reach the town centre and the cable car lift, leaving us with just time for a cup of tea before getting the first cable car up at 10.30am. It was by now clear that it was neither very cold in Nainital this winter (yet), nor was there much water, so the fabled (and rank) gullies near the hotel were not going to be as good as we'd hoped. In particular, we were struck by the complete lack of Turdus thrushes, contra previous trip reports - it would appear that the relatively mild weather meant that such birds were probably still at higher altitudes and spread thinly through the forests. Still, you can't have everything!

We were soon at the top of Snow View, enjoying crystal clear views of the Himalayas to the north - do go in the morning, as by lunchtime it was quite hazy, and the mountains were invisible by 3.00pm. Around the ridge at the top we saw Spot-winged Tit, more Treecreepers and Nuthatches, Eurasian and at least one Himalayan Vulture, Red-billed Chough and Raven, Grey-headed Woodpecker, a cracking Eurasian Jay of the local plain-headed form, and brief views of an Alpine Thrush, flashing a Zoothera underwing at us as it flew. Additionally, Lemon-rumped and Blyth's Leaf Warblers were active in bushes along the ridge. We found Bronzed Drongo and Striated Laughingthrush by the TV tower, and then headed steeply uphill through (largely quiet) woods towards Cheena Peak. Star birds here were three Pied Shrike-babblers, the sexes so different that we thought we had two species at first! Also, we had Himalayan and Scaly-bellied Woodpeckers, Rufous-naped Tit, numerous Rufous Sibias, and most obscurely but most excitingly, a Scaly-breasted Cupwing, feeding in a dank gully. There is a handy café at the very top of the hill, ideal for resting up before the steep and lengthy decent (knee pain!) down the western end of the ridge, to the so-called 'Higher Fields' (really a village), and thence down to the hotel just as dusk was falling. An absolutely brilliant day in the field, with well over 25 new species!

29th December

We decided to spend today at lower altitude (our legs were telling us to!), and explore the quieter roads on the western and southern sides of the town. It was chilly again, especially out of the sun, but we were soon finding lots of new birds. Early strikes included Hill Partridge, Great Barbet and Brown-fronted Woodpecker, plus a crippling White-capped Redstart. A densely vegetated hillside by the Kumaon University produced Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-babbler and Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, and Black-chinned Babblers in the leaf litter. Most of the common birds from yesterday were also about in good numbers, especially Grey-headed Warbler, Himalayan Bulbul and Green-backed Tit. Mountain Bulbul was new, however. A raucous calling flock of birds resolved themselves into White-throated Laughingthrushes - at least 125 of therm! They were crossing the road in a loose band, rather like Jays doing a 'follow-my-leader' trick. Lovely, elegant birds.

After tea at the Naini Retreat Hotel, we birded the track to the south of there. Black-headed Jay was a particular highlight here, along with Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush, Himalayan Woodpecker, Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, Red-flanked Bluetail (2, including a crippling adult male - at last!), another Scaly-breasted Cupwing, again in a wet gully (good habitat tip there!), 2 Rufous-breasted Accentors, and more Blue-fronted and White-capped Redstarts.

By now it was mid afternoon, and we made our way back to town, via a particularly rank open sewer, reputedly a Forktail site - no luck, but many Grey Wagtails, Plumbeous and White-capped Redstarts and other delightful congeners of human faeces....

Chris and Simon took a final turn up the hill beyond the Vikram Vintage Inn - only to have to rush back to get the girls when we found an Asian Barred Owlet in broad daylight! Mahinder did the shortest drive of the trip and ran them up the hill, just in time to see the bird! Chris and Simon ended the day with another Hill Partridge and Rock Bunting, and a lovely walk, in what we think were the 'Lower Fields', again a village on the side of the next valley over.

We spent the evening eating and playing snooker on the hotel's ancient but serviceable table....and Chris started to feel ill.

30th December

Gut disaster. Chris was really, really ill - he'd been up all night and looked dreadful. We went for a walk while the others waited to see if there'd be any improvement (there wasn't) - we picked up Lineated Barbet, Whiskered Yuhina, Dark-breasted Rosefinch, a very brief Yellow-breasted Greenfinch, Oriental Turtle Dove and Brown-flanked Bush-warbler. We spent much of the morning consulting and wondering, before calling the doctor, extending our stay for an extra night, and desperately trying to work out the changed logistics. We quickly dismissed the option of going on without the others - Chris's condition was just too uncertain, and we were on this trip as a team. Jacky was obviously very concerned too, especially after the doctor diagnosed severe gastroenteritic food poisoning. We reckon it was an omelette Chris had the day before in town. He went straight on antibiotics and various other drugs, guzzled Dioralyte, and crashed out. He was quiet enough by lunchtime for us to leave him to sleep, and the rest of us went out to salvage an afternoon in the field at the Mangoli Valley.

En route, we stopped by a hairpin in the road and saw Russet Sparrow in with a flock of at least 30 cracking Altai Accentors. As soon as we reached the village of Bajun, we were seeing good birds - Himalayan Prinia first, quickly followed by a mixed flock of Laughingthrushes - mostly White-throated and Streaked, but also in with them Striated, Chestnut-crowned and best of all a single, stunning, White-crested. Red-billed Blue Magpie seemed common, and we rapidly picked up new species in the forms of Ashy-throated and Green-crowned warblers, Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher, Black-throated Accentor, Grey Treepie and Black Francolin. The valley is a lovely, quiet mix of densely wooded slopes and family run farms - Shangri-la! The river was a particular target, especially after a local lad who tagged along confidently recognised a picture of a Forktail! We were not disappointed - in a magical 10 second burst, a Common Kingfisher attracted our attention, and we locked our bins onto a superb Spotted Forktail, right beside an adult male Green-tailed Sunbird! No anti-climax here - one of our biggest target birds nailed successfully. We saw a further two Forktails lower down the valley. Also about were many Long-tailed Shrikes, Red-vented Bulbuls, Jungle Babbler, Grey Bushchats and Stonechats, some of the latter resembling 'Siberian' forms. A fantastic place to go birding.

Back at the hotel, Chris was much improved but far from OK - we collectively crossed our fingers for the next day.

31st December

Chris was much better, though still a bit ropey, but now we were somewhat iffy...oh dear. We were fine to travel the shortish distance down to Corbett, however, so we packed our bags and hit the road. We didn't want to stop much on the way, but we did still see Russet Sparrow and Red-flanked Bluetail from the van, plus a small party of Kalij Pheasants. We stopped only once - for a Common Green Magpie which frustratingly proceeded to melt away into the trees.

Down in the foothills, the fog was still quite bad - crossing the rivers was weird in the pea-soup miasma - but we did see River Lapwing and various other waders and kingfishers. By the time we reached Corbett, Simon was feeling really poorly. On arriving at Camp Forktail, about 25km north of Ramnagar, after a brief but crippling Crested Kingfisher, we had to walk 500 yards up a really steep track to find the Camp - bad timing! Simon had to crash for two hours to have a chance of birding later on. The camp was fantastic (even Simon could see that!) - very like Backwoods in Goa, but a bit bigger, with a substantial dining area under cover. Comfy beds, thick duvets, clean bathroom attachment tents, excellent food. The guys running the place were very welcoming and professional, and knew their birds! Once Simon was vaguely serviceable, we had Yellow-bellied and White-throated Fantails, Grey-rumped Treeswift, Grey-breasted Prinia and a superb Brown Fish Owl right by the entrance track.

But our main target was the River Kosi at Ramnagar, one of those mythical places you only read about. In reality, it resembles a sewer in places, and we had quite a lot of hassle from the local under-10s. But what birds! Loads of hirundines about, plus Common Chiffchaffs, Yellow-bellied Fantail and circling raptors. However, the main interest was on the river itself. Again encouraged by a local lad's protestations of recognition from the bird book, we pressed north from the water tower, and scanned the rocky river bed. A pair of Great Stone-curlews was good enough, but while watching them Chris went all quiet. 'Simon', he said, 'have a look at this grey bird here.' Simon peered through his 'scope - 'WALLCREEPER!' One of our all-time dream birds finally scored! 'No, you wally [or words to that effect!], IBISBILL!' He looked again - we were both right! A male Ibisbill was perched quietly among the rocks, with Great Stone-curlews walking past it, and a Wallcreeper fluttering on the rock in front. It's strange how birding can cure all manner of physical ailments at times like that - Simon was feeling very much improved!

We arrived back at the Camp in time for a final evening walk down to the river - Chris was relieved to get back Spotted Forktail, and we also had Muntjac Deer, Rufous-bellied Niltava, Slaty-blue Flycatcher and best of all, not one but two Chestnut-headed Tesias. A (probably Large-tailed) Nightjar flew over the Camp at dusk. Exhausted but happy, we ate a simple meal and crashed out well before midnight!

1st January

All were healthy for the first time in days! We set off shortly after daybreak in a jeep, heading for the southern gate into the National Park. We scored en route, with several Red Junglefowl - a 'poultry' reward for our early start, you might think. But things swiftly got hugely exciting, as three enormous Great Hornbills whoomped across the road and disappeared into the dense teak forest. Our circuit inside the park was very productive indeed. Early on, we found a good fruiting fig tree, which supported three different barbet species - Lineated, Brown-headed and Blue-throated. Also, we had several woodpeckers - Grey-capped Pygmy, Fulvous-breasted, Scaly-bellied and a Himalayan Flameback.

Around a village compound in the park, we connected with Variable Wheatear at its only local site, plus Long-billed Pipit (of the extremely dark local form), Blue Rock Thrush, Brown Rock Chat and a crippling male semirufus Black Redstart. We passed close to the area where a group had seen Tiger the day before, and again found very fresh pugmarks. Again, we heard alarm calls, this time from a Muntjac - allegedly the most reliable alarm-caller in the jungle. Sadly, again, the Tiger wouldn't show. This really was our last roll of the dice - we shall simply have to go back!

The birds really did make up for any disappointment, however. We disturbed another two Great Hornbills, and thankfully one of them perched up, showing brilliantly and well enough for Chris to digiscope it! The dry river bed produced another Wallcreeper, and other new birds included Slaty-headed Parakeet (along with Rose-ringed and Alexandrine), Jungle Owlet (along with another Asian Barred Owlet), Changeable Hawk-eagle, Black-hooded Oriole, Indian Cuckooshrike, 2 separate male Himalayan Rubythroats, Crimson Sunbird, Tickell's Leaf Warbler, a very brief Little Pied Flycatcher, and (unexpected) Rusty-tailed Flycatcher and White-rumped Shama.

Further goodies came in the form of Black Stork, Cinereous Vulture, Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher, Jungle, Himalayan and Ashy Prinias, Green-crowned, Grey-headed and Lemon-rumped Warblers, Red-breasted and Slaty-blue Flycatchers, Red-whiskered Bulbul, Grey-rumped Treeswift, White-rumped Spinetail, Small and Scarlet Minivets, White-throated and Yellow-bellied Fantails, Velvet-fronted and Indian Nuthatch, Orange-headed Thrush and both treepies.

It really was a bird-packed and very exciting final 'proper' morning for Julia and me - we saw almost 100 species away from significant water in less than five hours!

Back at Camp Forktail, a cracking female Crested Kingfisher allowed close approach, and after a final log call and packing, we said our goodbyes to Chris and Jacky, and left for Delhi at about 2.00 pm. The ride back was smooth and uneventful - back to the familiar plains birds in good numbers, including a huge gathering of at least 300 Eastern Cattle Egrets and 200 Black Kites around a gruesome-looking charnel house outside Moradabad. Sadly, we didn't reach the Ganges Bridge before nightfall, so we couldn't try for Gangetic River Dolphin - all we could see there were the distant funeral pyres along the right bank of the holy river.

Back in Delhi, we reached the functional but unexciting Hotel Metro Heights at about 9.00 pm. Crash out time!

2nd January

Dense fog today, and no time anyway! We needed to be at the airport by 11.00 am, so it was breakfast at the hotel with Raj, then a final drive with him and Mahinder to IG Airport. Fond farewells over, we proceeded to get stuck in lengthy delays, most relating to hand luggage searches, rechargeable batteries, silk ties dropped in puddles of questionable fluid, aggressive and unpleasant security officers and typical (unamusing at the end of a trip) Indian bureaucracy. Let's not dwell on it!

Success? No Tigers, but feel the bird quality! Siberian Crane, Wallcreeper, Ibisbill, Himalayan Rubythroat, Great Hornbill, Great Barbet, Crested Kingfisher, Red-billed Blue and Common Green Magpies, Great Stone-curlew, Spotted Forktail, White-crested Laughingthrush, Tickell's Thrush and Brown Fish-owl - dream birds the lot of them!

Postscript : Chris and Jacky stayed on for a further two nights - Simon had to get back to work on 3rd January, frustratingly. During their extra time at Corbett, the National Park was actually inaccessible, since park staff held a one-day strike. Undeterred, they explored areas outside the Park, notching up some 30 extra species (in alphabetical order):

Ashy Bulbul, Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike, Bearded Vulture, Black-headed Gull, Blue-winged Minla, Brown Dipper, Brown-headed Gull, Chestnut-crowned Bush-warbler, Chukar Partridge, Common Rosefinch, Dark-sided Flycatcher, Greater Yellownape, Grey-winged Blackbird, Himalayan Swiftlet, Lesser Black-backed Gull, Lesser Yellownape, Little Forktail, Long-tailed Minivet, Mountain Hawk-Eagle, Nepal House Martin, Orange-bellied Leafbird, Pallas's Fish Eagle, Rufous Woodpecker, Rufous-bellied Eagle, Savanna Nightjar, Small Niltava, Upland Buzzard, Verditer Flycatcher, White-capped Bunting and Yellow-legged Gull.

Black Francolin

Francolinus francolinus

A male and two females in fields at the Mangoli Valley

Grey Francolin

Ortygornis pondicerianus

Up to 30 at Ranthambore and 13 at Bharatpur

Red Junglefowl

Gallus gallus

Six at Corbett, all foraging on roads and tracks in the early morning

Hill Partridge

Arborophila torqueola

Two separate birds on steep hillsides at Nainital

Kalij Pheasant

Lophura leucomelanos

A small party of 4+ by the road on the descent from Nainital

Indian Peafowl

Pavo cristatus

Abundant at Ranthambore, and a few scattered birds in the plains around Delhi and Agra. Many appear to live in a feral state on intensively farmed land

Lesser Whistling Duck

Dendrocygna javanica

10 at Ranthambore and 15 at Bharatpur

Greylag Goose

Anser anser

500+ at Bharatpur

Bar-headed Goose

Anser indicus

200+ at Bharatpur

Ruddy Shelduck

Tadorna ferruginea

Two at the Taj Mahal, 5 at the Ganges River crossing and a further 12 at Ramnagar

Knob-billed Duck

Sarkidiornis melanotos

Six at Ranthambore, and up to 2 at Bharatpur - this is a scarce species indeed

Cotton Pygmy Goose

Nettapus coromandelianus

25+ at Ranthambore and 20 at Bharatpur

Gadwall

Mareca strepera

50 at Ranthambore and 250+ at Bharatpur

Eurasian Wigeon

Mareca penelope

50 at Ranthambore and 50+ at Bharatpur

Mallard

Anas platyrhynchos

Just one seen, at Bharatpur

Indian Spot-billed Duck

Anas poecilorhyncha

About 30 at Bharatpur

Northern Shoveler

Spatula clypeata

17+ at Ranthambore, 50+ at Bharatpur and 2 at the River Ganges crossing

Northern Pintail

Anas acuta

3+ at Ranthambore and 200+ at Bharatpur

Green-winged Teal

Anas crecca

Many at Ranthambore and many 100s at Bharatpur

Common Pochard

Aythya ferina

15 at Ranthambore and 150 at the River Ganges crossing

Tufted Duck

Aythya fuligula

200+ at the River Ganges crossing

Common Buttonquail

Turnix sylvaticus

Two ran across the main road into Ranthambore NP behind the jeep

Barred Buttonquail

Turnix suscitator

One flushed but then invisible on the ground at Bharatpur

Eurasian Wryneck

Jynx torquilla

One seen at Bharatpur

Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker

Yungipicus nanus

One from a punt ride at Bharatpur

Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker

Yungipicus canicapillus

One at Corbett

Brown-fronted Woodpecker

Dendrocoptes auriceps

Two noted at Nainital

Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker

Dendrocopos macei

One at Corbett

Yellow-crowned Woodpecker

Leiopicus mahrattensis

Four at Bharatpur

Himalayan Woodpecker

Dendrocopos himalayensis

A total of 6 in woodlands around Nainital

Scaly-bellied Woodpecker

Picus squamatus

One at Nainital and a further 3 at Corbett

Grey-headed Woodpecker

Picus canus

Three at Nainital, one at the Mangoli Valley and another at Corbett

Himalayan Flameback

Dinopium shorii

One at Corbett

Black-rumped Flameback

Dinopium benghalense

Two at Ranthambore, 5 at Bharatpur and 2 at Corbett

Great Barbet

Psilopogon virens

One seen at extremely close range at Nainital, and another briefly in flight there

Brown-headed Barbet

Psilopogon zeylanicus

Five at Bharatpur - also heard and another 4 seen at Corbett

Lineated Barbet

Psilopogon lineatus

Two briefly at Nainital, and another 3 at Corbett

Blue-throated Barbet

Psilopogon asiaticus

One at Corbett

Coppersmith Barbet

Psilopogon haemacephalus

Four at Ranthambore, about 11 at Bharatpur, and 1 at Corbett

Indian Grey Hornbill

Ocyceros birostris

Four at Bharatpur and 1 at the Taj Mahal

Great Hornbill

Buceros bicornis

One of the highlights of the trip. Three flew noisily across the main road at Corbett, and later the same day we located two more in the park, one of which gave prolonged views.

Common Hoopoe

Upupa epops

About 16 noted in the lowlands

Indian Roller

Coracias benghalensis

Up to 40 noted in the lowlands

Common Kingfisher

Alcedo atthis

Five around Bharatpur and a further 6 in the hills

White-throated Kingfisher

Halcyon smyrnensis

Perhaps 100 seen in the lowlands, and another 5 or so at Corbett

Crested Kingfisher

Megaceryle lugubris

Brief views of one in flight near Camp Forktail, and then prolonged views of it or another there the next day

Pied Kingfisher

Ceryle rudis

Two at Ranthambore, up to 6 at Bharatpur and 2 near Agra

Asian Green Bee-eater

Merops orientalis

Only seen between Ranthambore and Bharatpur - about 30 noted

Greater Coucal

Centropus sinensis

Ten at Bharatpur and a further 7 elsewhere in the lowlands

Alexandrine Parakeet

Psittacula eupatria

Three at Ranthambore and 5 at Corbett

Rose-ringed Parakeet

Psittacula krameri

Abundant in the lowlands and Corbett but absent at Nainital

Slaty-headed Parakeet

Psittacula himalayana

Five in a fruiting tree at Corbett

Plum-headed Parakeet

Psittacula cyanocephala

About a dozen at Ranthambore

White-rumped Spinetail

Zoonavena sylvatica

Up to 60 at Corbett

Asian Palm Swift

Cypsiurus balasiensis

50+ at Ranthambore

House Swift

Apus nipalensis

Several small parties in the plains, and 10 at Corbett

Grey-rumped Treeswift

Hemiprocne longipennis

Up to 60 at Corbett

Indian Scops Owl

Otus bakkamoena

Two pairs found roosting at Bharatpur

Dusky Eagle-Owl

Ketupa coromanda

One on the nest at Bharatpur

Brown Fish Owl

Ketupa zeylonensis

One at dawn at the main gate at Ranthambore, and another which gave crippling views in broad daylight by Camp Forktail

Asian Barred Owlet

Glaucidium cuculoides

An excellent series of records - one both morning and evening west of the hotel in Nainital, and at least one near Camp Forktail

Jungle Owlet

Glaucidium radiatum

Brief but good views of one at Corbett

Spotted Owlet

Athene brama

Two roosting at Bharatpur

Large-tailed Nightjar

Caprimulgus macrurus

A pair roosting on the ground at the Nursery at Bharatpur, separated by a few yards. Also, a probable flew over Camp Forktail at dusk

Indian Nightjar

Caprimulgus asiaticus

One roosting in a tree at Bharatpur

Rock Dove

Columba livia

Many feral birds around habitation, and some more pukka-looking birds in the hills

Oriental Turtle Dove

Streptopelia orientalis

Two singles at Nainital

Laughing Dove

Spilopelia senegalensis

About 12 in the lowlands

Spotted Dove

Spilopelia chinensis

About 12 at Ranthambore and 10+ near Ramnagar

Eurasian Collared Dove

Streptopelia decaocto

Present in good numbers around habitation

Yellow-footed Green Pigeon

Treron phoenicopterus

Fifteen at Bharatpur

Siberian Crane

Leucogeranus leucogeranus

As hoped, the wintering pair was seen at Bharatpur. This species remains critically endangered, and it remains to be seen how long it will be easily accessible to birders. A superb sight.

Sarus Crane

Antigone antigone

Four seen at Bharatpur, including one juvenile

Common Crane

Grus grus

Three flying over agricultural land west of Bharatpur

White-breasted Waterhen

Amaurornis phoenicurus

Common in the lowlands near water

Purple Swamphen

Porphyrio porphyrio

15 at Ranthambore and 100+ at Bharatpur

Common Moorhen

Gallinula chloropus

Common in lowland wetlands

Eurasian Coot

Fulica atra

A few at Ranthambore and common at Bharatpur

Painted Sandgrouse

Pterocles indicus

Three just after dawn at Ranthambore

Black-tailed Godwit

Limosa limosa

Six at Jaipur and another 2 in flight at Bharatpur

Common Redshank

Tringa totanus

Five singles noted

Common Greenshank

Tringa nebularia

Fourteen noted at various sites

Green Sandpiper

Tringa ochropus

Nineteen noted at various sites

Wood Sandpiper

Tringa glareola

A few at Ranthambore and roadside pools and 50+ at Bharatpur

Common Sandpiper

Actitis hypoleucos

Eight or so at various sites

Little Stint

Calidris minuta

Ten near Jaipur

Temminck's Stint

Calidris temminckii

One on the River Kosi at Ramnagar

Dunlin

Calidris alpina

20 at the Taj Mahal

Ruff

Calidris pugnax

About 30 at Bharatpur and 20 at the GRC

Pheasant-tailed Jacana

Hydrophasianus chirurgus

10 at Ranthambore and 1at Bharatpur

Bronze-winged Jacana

Metopidius indicus

Perhaps 30 at Bharatpur and, more surpsingly, 3 on a eutrophic pool at the roadside near Moradabad

Eurasian Stone-curlew

Burhinus oedicnemus

Five in dense scrub at Ranthambore, 3 at Bharatpur and heard at the Mangoli Valley

Great Stone-curlew

Esacus recurvirostris

Two at the River Kosi at Ramnagar

Ibisbill

Ibidorhyncha struthersii

A superb male located about 500m north of the circular tower on the River Kosi at Ramnagar

Black-winged Stilt

Himantopus himantopus

Common at roadside pools and rivers, but surprisingly rare at Bharatpur, where only 3 seen

River Lapwing

Vanellus duvaucelii

One at the Taj Mahal and a further 8 around Ramnagar and Corbett

Red-wattled Lapwing

Vanellus indicus

Common in the lowlands

White-tailed Lapwing

Vanellus leucurus

Up to 15 at Bharatpur

River Tern

Sterna aurantia

Three at Ranthambore and another two en route from Bharatpur to Moradabad

Osprey

Pandion haliaetus

Two at Ranthambore

Crested Honey Buzzard

Pernis ptilorhynchus

One at Ranthambore and excellent views of four at Bharatpur

Black-winged Kite

Elanus caeruleus

26 noted in the lowlands

Black Kite

Milvus migrans

Not noted until Agra, and thence common around habitation

Egyptian Vulture

Neophron percnopterus

5+ at Bharatpur, 50+ around Agra and a few others in the lowlands

White-rumped Vulture

Gyps bengalensis

Just three seen, all at Ranthambore

Indian Vulture

Gyps indicus

As with the previous species, alrmingly few seen - just 13 at Ranthambore, although encouragingly including a breeding pair

Himalayan Vulture

Gyps himalayensis

Two certain individuals over the mountains at Nainital

Griffon Vulture

Gyps fulvus

Up to 20 in the hills, mostly at Nainital

Cinereous Vulture

Aegypius monachus

One over Corbett NP was a considerable surprise

Red-headed Vulture

Sarcogyps calvus

Up to 3 at Bharatpur and another 2 at Corbett

Crested Serpent Eagle

Spilornis cheela

2 or 3 at Ranthambore, up to 4 at Bharatpur and 2 at Corbett

Western Marsh Harrier

Circus aeruginosus

Only sen at Bharatpur, where probably 3 present

Pallid Harrier

Circus macrourus

An excellent male in a dry area at Bharatpur

Hen Harrier

Circus cyaneus

One ringtail quartering hillslopes at the 'low fields' at Nainital

Shikra

Tachyspiza badia

Eight noted in the lowlands

Greater Spotted Eagle

Clanga clanga

Up to 20 at Bharatpur

Tawny Eagle

Aquila rapax

One at Ranthambore and 5+ at Bharatpur

Steppe Eagle

Aquila nipalensis

One at Nainital and another at Corbett

Eastern Imperial Eagle

Aquila heliaca

3+ at Bharatpur including fantastic views of an adult

Changeable Hawk-Eagle

Nisaetus cirrhatus

One in good voice at Corbett

Common Kestrel

Falco tinnunculus

One at Bharatpur and a male on three occasions at Nainital

Little Grebe

Tachybaptus ruficollis

Present in double figures at Ranthambore, Bharatpur and the River Ganges crossing

Oriental Darter

Anhinga melanogaster

One at Ranthambore and 25+ at Bharatpur

Indian Cormorant

Phalacrocorax fuscicollis

Present in small numbers at Ranthambore and many at Bharatpur

Great Cormorant

Phalacrocorax carbo

50+ at Ranthambore and similar numbers at Bharatpur

Little Egret

Egretta garzetta

One at Ranthambore, 20+ at Bharatpur and a few others in the lowlands

Grey Heron

Ardea cinerea

About 20 noted

Purple Heron

Ardea purpurea

Two at Ranthambore and up to 20 at Bharatpur

Great Egret

Ardea alba

Five noted at Bharatpur and a few other nearby wetlands

Medium Egret

Ardea intermedia

Seven at Ranthambore, 50+ at Bharatpur and a few at roadside wetlands

Eastern Cattle Egret

Ardea coromanda

Common in the lowlands, with an amazing congregation of 250+ at an abbatoir near Ramnagar

Indian Pond Heron

Ardeola grayii

Abundant throughout the lowlands

Little Heron

Butorides atricapilla

One flushed from bankside vegetation at Bharatpur

Black-crowned Night Heron

Nycticorax nycticorax

About 20 seen at Bharatpur

Glossy Ibis

Plegadis falcinellus

30 at Bharatpur

Black-headed Ibis

Threskiornis melanocephalus

Seven at Ranthambore and about 15 at Bharatpur

Eurasian Spoonbill

Platalea leucorodia

50+ at Bharatpur

Great White Pelican

Pelecanus onocrotalus

13 in flight over Bharatpur

Painted Stork

Mycteria leucocephala

10 at Ranthambore, 200+ at Bharatpur and one one a pool near Agra

Asian Openbill

Anastomus oscitans

Two at Bharatpur

Asian Woolly-necked Stork

Ciconia episcopus

Two at Ranthambore and 10 at Bharatpur

Black Stork

Ciconia nigra

One at Ranthambore and three at Corbett

Black-necked Stork

Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus

Up to five magnificent birds at Bharatpur

Isabelline Shrike

Lanius isabellinus

An adult

Bay-backed Shrike

Lanius vittatus

About 10 in the lowlands

Long-tailed Shrike

Lanius schach

Some 25 seen in the lowlands, mostly at Ranthambore and Bharatpur

Great Grey Shrike

Lanius excubitor

About six between Ranthambore and Bharatpur

Eurasian Jay

Garrulus glandarius

One beautiful bird of the plain-headed bispecularis form at Nainital

Black-headed Jay

Garrulus lanceolatus

40+, most in one loose flock, at Nainital

Red-billed Blue Magpie

Urocissa erythroryncha

Sightings were quite hard to come by in Nainital, with just four seen briefly, but seven showed much better in the Mangoli Valley

Common Green Magpie

Cissa chinensis

Frustratingly brief views of two singles in the hills below Nainital and at Corbett

Rufous Treepie

Dendrocitta vagabunda

Common at Ranthambore, Bharatpur and a few present at Corbett

Grey Treepie

Dendrocitta formosae

Four in the Mangoli Valley and about 3 at Corbett

Red-billed Chough

Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax

One at Nainital

House Crow

Corvus splendens

Common in the lowlands

Large-billed Crow

Corvus macrorhynchos

Common in the hills, and also present at Ranthambore and Bharatpur. The birds at Nainital appeared to be of the rather Raven-like form intermedius, sometimes split as a species

Northern Raven

Corvus corax

Three at Nainital

Black-hooded Oriole

Oriolus xanthornus

Two at Corbett

Indian Cuckooshrike

Coracina macei

Three at Corbett

Small Minivet

Pericrocotus cinnamomeus

25+ at Ranthambore and 2 at Corbett, apparently of the forms pallidus and peregrinus respectively

Scarlet Minivet

Pericrocotus flammeus

A female at Bharatpur and a pair at Corbett

Yellow-bellied Fantail

Chelidorhynx hypoxanthus

Four at Corbett

White-throated Fantail

Rhipidura albicollis

Up to 8 at Corbett and Ramnagar

White-browed Fantail

Rhipidura aureola

10+ at Ranthambore

Black Drongo

Dicrurus macrocercus

Common in the lowlands

Ashy Drongo

Dicrurus leucophaeus

Only identified with certainty at Bharatpur, where 5 were seen

White-bellied Drongo

Dicrurus caerulescens

Up to four at Ranthambore

Bronzed Drongo

Dicrurus aeneus

Three at Nainital

Common Iora

Aegithina tiphia

One by the hotel at Ranthambore

Common Woodshrike

Tephrodornis pondicerianus

About 10 at Ranthambore and 5 at Bharatpur

Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush

Monticola rufiventris

A superb male on a thickly wooded slope on the southern side of Nainital. Surprisingly, it spent all its time perched in trees

Blue Rock Thrush

Monticola solitarius

A female around a village compound at Corbett

Blue Whistling Thrush

Myophonus caeruleus

A common bird of the hills, with up to 25+ per day around Nainital and Corbett

Orange-headed Thrush

Geokichla citrina

An excellent adult feeding in leaf litter at Corbett

Alpine Thrush

Zoothera mollissima

One briefly on the deck and in flight along the high mountain ridge at Nainital

Rusty-tailed Flycatcher

Ficedula ruficauda

One at Corbett was a most unexpected bonus, given that almost the entire population winters in the Western Ghats of southern India

Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher

Ficedula strophiata

Two excellent males in the Mangoli Valley, and a female at Corbett

Red-breasted Flycatcher

Ficedula parva

Two at Ranthambore and about 23 at Bharatpur were either of the form parva or indeterminate

Little Pied Flycatcher

Ficedula westermanni

Brief views of a male in a bird wave at Corbett

Slaty-blue Flycatcher

Ficedula tricolor

Two birds at separate locations at Corbett

Rufous-bellied Niltava

Niltava sundara

A stunning male at Camp Forktail, Corbett

Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher

Culicicapa ceylonensis

Two at Ranthambore, one at Bharatpur, one at the Mangoli Valley and 1 at Camp Forktail, Corbett

Himalayan Rubythroat

Calliope pectoralis

Two excellent males at Corbett. As an aside, we could not locate the wintering male Siberian Rubythroat by the barrier at Bharatpur

Bluethroat

Luscinia svecica

Quite common at Bharatpur, with about 12 noted

Red-flanked Bluetail

Tarsiger cyanurus

A male and two female types in and around Nainitalnital. Less common than expected.

Oriental Magpie-Robin

Copsychus saularis

A very few at Ranthambore and Corbett, but common at Bharatpur, with 50 a day estimated

White-rumped Shama

Copsychus malabaricus

A pleasing surprise was a female in a bird wave at Corbett

Indian Robin

Copsychus fulicatus

A common species, though absent from the Nainital area

Blue-capped Redstart

Phoenicurus coeruleocephala

Seven in the Nainital area, all but two of them males

Black Redstart

Phoenicurus ochruros

About 30 noted, mostly females/immatures, but at least three superb males of the red-bellied form phoenicuroides

Blue-fronted Redstart

Phoenicurus frontalis

Six in the hills around Nainital

White-capped Redstart

Phoenicurus leucocephalus

Quite common around streams in the hills - five around Nainital, 3 in the Mangoli Valley and about 11 sightings at Corbett and Ramnagar

Plumbeous Water Redstart

Phoenicurus fuliginosus

Similarly frequent - 15 noted at similar sites to the previous species

Spotted Forktail

Enicurus maculatus

One of the big target birds of the trip, we found three in the Mangoli Valley, and saw another along the river by Camp Forktail, Corbett

Siberian Stonechat

Saxicola maurus

About 20 at Bharatpur, 4 in the Mangoli Valley, and 4 at Ramnagar. Most of the former seemed to be of the local resident form indica, but birds in the hills more closely resembled one of the migrant 'Siberian' forms

Pied Bush Chat

Saxicola caprata

About 15 at Bharatpur and 1 at Corbett

Jerdon's Bush Chat

Saxicola jerdoni

A single male in Nainital, and then a further 14 at Corbett and Ramnagar

Variable Wheatear

Oenanthe picata

A single male at a village compound at Corbett, apparently the only regular site in the park for the species

Brown Rock Chat

Oenanthe fusca

Five at Amber Fort near Jaipur, and two at Corbett

Brahminy Starling

Sturnia pagodarum

A very few near Ranthambore, and about 30 at Bharatpur

Rosy Starling

Pastor roseus

An excellent roadside flock of about 20 between Ranthambore and Bharatpur

Indian Pied Myna

Gracupica contra

Four near Ranthambore, and up to 50 daily at Bharatpur, Agra and nearby lowland sites

Common Myna

Acridotheres tristis

A common bird throughout, especially in the hills

Bank Myna

Acridotheres ginginianus

Commoner further west than Common Myna, and a familiar roadside bird, but absent from the high hills

Indian Nuthatch

Sitta castanea

Two at Bharatpur and a further 2 at Corbett

White-tailed Nuthatch

Sitta himalayensis

Up to 20 sightings in the hills around Nainital

Velvet-fronted Nuthatch

Sitta frontalis

Six in two groups at Corbett

Wallcreeper

Tichodroma muraria

Good, if slightly distant views of two individuals, at the River Kosi, Ramnagar, and along a dry river bed at Corbett

Bar-tailed Treecreeper

Certhia himalayana

About 8 noted at Nainital

Rufous-naped Tit

Periparus rufonuchalis

At least one at Nainital, but possibly overlooked

Coal (Spot-winged) Tit

Periparus ater melanolophus

12+ at Nainital

Great Tit

Parus major

11+ at Ranthambore and 2 at Corbett, of the 'Grey' cinereus form

Green-backed Tit

Parus monticolus

Common at Nainital and the Mangoli Valley, with 30+ a day not unusual

Himalayan Black-lored Tit

Machlolophus xanthogenys

One at Nainital, and a further 3 in the Mangoli Valley

Black-throated Bushtit

Aegithalos concinnus

20+ per day in the hills at Nainital

Brown-throated Martin

Riparia paludicola

20 per day at Bharatpur, and 15 at Ramnagar

Eurasian Crag Martin

Ptyonoprogne rupestris

7+ at Nainital

Dusky Crag Martin

Ptyonoprogne concolor

40+ at Ranthambore and 10 at Ramnagar

Barn Swallow

Hirundo rustica

3+ at Bharatpur and 75+ around the River Ganges crossing

Wire-tailed Swallow

Hirundo smithii

1+ on wires near Ranthambore

Streak-throated Swallow

Petrochelidon fluvicola

1+ at Camp Forktail, Corbett

Eastern Red-rumped Swallow

Cecropis daurica

4+ at Ranthambore, 4 at Bharatpur and about 25 in and around Corbett

Red-whiskered Bulbul

Pycnonotus jocosus

Two at Corbett

White-eared Bulbul

Pycnonotus leucotis

Only seen at Bharatpur, where 15+ per day

Himalayan Bulbul

Pycnonotus leucogenys

Up to 20 per day at Nainital, and c.9 at Corbett

Red-vented Bulbul

Pycnonotus cafer

Common in the lowlands, and about 15 in the hills, but absent at Nainital

Mountain Bulbul

Ixos mcclellandii

Five at Nainital

Himalayan Prinia

Prinia crinigera

One at the Mangoli Valley and another at Corbett

Grey-breasted Prinia

Prinia hodgsonii

About 14 at Corbett

Jungle Prinia

Prinia sylvatica

1+ at Corbett

Plain Prinia

Prinia inornata

3 at Ranthambore and 25+ at Bharatpur

Ashy Prinia

Prinia socialis

One near Jaipur, 6 at Bharatpur and 1 at Corbett

Indian White-eye

Zosterops palpebrosus

One at Ranthambore, and common in the hills, with up to 30 per day at Nainital and 5 per day around Corbett

Chestnut-headed Tesia

Cettia castaneocoronata

Two superb adults within 200m of each other close to Camp Forktail, Corbett - our guide had only ever seen one before!

Brown-flanked Bush Warbler

Horornis fortipes

One at the 'low fields' in Nainital

Blyth's Reed Warbler

Acrocephalus dumetorum

Only noted at Bharatpur, where four seen

Common Tailorbird

Orthotomus sutorius

Four at Bharatpur and 2 at Corbett

Common Chiffchaff

Phylloscopus collybita

About 25 at Bharatpur and a further 7 at Ramnagar. All were apparently of the form tristis, but only 2 were heard to call

Tickell's Leaf Warbler

Phylloscopus affinis

Two at Corbett

Buff-barred Warbler

Phylloscopus pulcher

One of the more distinctive Phylloscs, a total of 10 was noted in the hills around Nainital

Ashy-throated Warbler

Phylloscopus maculipennis

Two in the Mangoli Valley

Lemon-rumped Warbler

Phylloscopus chloronotus

At least 13 in the hills of Nainital and Corbett

Hume's Leaf Warbler

Phylloscopus humei

Two seen at Ranthambore, and at least 15 seen and heard at Bharatpur - others suspected too

Greenish Warbler

Phylloscopus trochiloides

The commonest Phyllosc in the plains, with many at Ranthambore and at least 24 at Bharatpur

Blyth's Leaf Warbler

Phylloscopus reguloides

Three identified at Nainital

Green-crowned Warbler

Phylloscopus burkii

One at the Mangoli Valley, one from the car on the descent to Ramnagar, and another at Corbett

Green-crowned Warbler

Phylloscopus burkii

The commonest warbler in the hills, with 18 around Nainital and 2 at Corbett

White-throated Laughingthrush

Pterorhinus albogularis

After a day with none in Nainital, we found a flock of over 120 birds on the south-west side of town - there were another 20 or so at the Mangoli Valley

White-crested Laughingthrush

Garrulax leucolophus

An absolutely stunning adult with other Laughing-thrushes at the Mangoli Valley

Striated Laughingthrush

Grammatoptila striata

Two in the high forests of China Peak, Nainital, and another 4 at the Mangoli Valley

Streaked Laughingthrush

Trochalopteron lineatum

The commonest laughingthrush - up to 100 per day at Nainital

Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush

Trochalopteron erythrocephalum

10 at Nainital and 2 at the Mangoli Valley

Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler

Erythrogenys erythrogenys

Groups of 3 and 2 at Nainital

Scaly-breasted Cupwing

Pnoepyga albiventer

We were very fortunate to find two separate birds at Nainital - both in damp gullies in thick woodland

Black-chinned Babbler

Cyanoderma pyrrhops

Thirteen at Nainital, 2 at the Mangoli Valley and 2 at Corbett

Yellow-eyed Babbler

Chrysomma sinense

About 12 at Bharatpur

Common Babbler

Argya caudata

Just two seen, both at Bharatpur

Large Grey Babbler

Argya malcolmi

20 at Ranthambore, 2 at Bharatpur and 2+ near Agra

Jungle Babbler

Argya striata

Abundant at Ranthambore, Bharatpur and Corbett

Pied Shrike-babbler

Pteruthius flaviscapis

A really crippling party of 2 males and a female, the sexes quite dissimlar, in the high forests of China Peak, Nainital

Rufous Sibia

Heterophasia capistrata

Delightfully common at Nainital, with upwards of 25 seen. Very noisy and not shy

Whiskered Yuhina

Yuhina flavicollis

Brief views of one at the 'low fields' at Nainital

Lesser Whitethroat

Curruca curruca

A few at Ranthambore, abundant at Bharatpur, and 1 at Corbett. All those eamined closely resembled the forms blythi and althaea - certainly none raised suspicions of minula

Purple Sunbird

Cinnyris asiaticus

Five at Ranthambore and 5 at Bharatpur

Green-tailed Sunbird

Aethopyga nipalensis

A stunning male at the Mangoli Valley

Crimson Sunbird

Aethopyga siparaja

An eclipse male at Corbettbett

House Sparrow

Passer domesticus

Abundant around settlements

Russet Sparrow

Passer cinnamomeus

Two on the way from Nainital to the Mangoli Valley, and another from the car on the descent to Ramnagar

Yellow-throated Sparrow

Gymnoris xanthocollis

One

White Wagtail

Motacilla alba

Three in Rajasthan, but oddly none at Bharatpur, and a further 20 or so in the hills and plains around Ramnagar and Corbett. A mixture of forms present, including personata and dukhunensis

White-browed Wagtail

Motacilla maderaspatensis

Three near Bharatpuraratpur, 6 near Agra and 6 at Corbettbett

Citrine Wagtail

Motacilla citreola

The commonest wagtail by far, but only seen at Bharatpur, where probably 50+ seen

Western Yellow Wagtail

Motacilla flava

One 'dark-headed' bird near Bharatpur

Grey Wagtail

Motacilla cinerea

A total of 15 at a variety of sites

Paddyfield Pipit

Anthus rufulus

Three at Bharatpur, and about 3 other large pipits that were thought to be of this species elsewhere

Tawny Pipit

Anthus campestris

Two at Bharatpur

Olive-backed Pipit

Anthus hodgsoni

The commonest pipit - c. 20 at Bharatpur, and a further 5 or so in the hills

Long-billed Pipit

Anthus similis

Two very rufous birds of the form jerdoni at Corbett

Rufous-breasted Accentor

Prunella strophiata

Two on the southern side of Nainital

Black-throated Accentor

Prunella atrogularis

Two at the Mangoli Valley

Altai Accentor

Prunella himalayana

An excellent flock of at least 30 birds by the roadside between Nainital and the Mangoli Valley

Red Avadavat

Amandava amandava

Three flew over with Indian Silverbills at Bharatpur

Indian Silverbill

Euodice malabarica

About 30 noted in the plains

Yellow-breasted Greenfinch

Chloris spinoides

One very briefly at Nainital, and another female at the Mangoli Valley

Dark-breasted Rosefinch

Procarduelis nipalensis

Two excellent pink birds at Nainital

Rock Bunting

Emberiza cia

Two in the 'low fields' at Nainital

Black-headed Bunting

Emberiza melanocephala

About 10 on the run west from Delhi