19th December
I won't drone on about the flights - suffice it to say that we were delayed, and only had about an hour of daylight after leaving the airport at Banjul. A few Cattle Egrets, Pied Crows and various doves were about the sum total of day one - so we concentrated on vast quantities of food and a good sleep instead!
20th December
Straight out into the gardens at dawn, and instantly we were soaking up the tropical African avifauna - Yellow-crowned Gonolek, Bronze Mannikin, African Thrush, White-crowned Robin-chat, Splendid and Beautiful Sunbirds, Western Grey Plaintain-eater, Senegal Coucal, Lavender Waxbill, Piapiac, Village Weaver, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu, Yellow-billed Shrike and various doves all seemed common and easy (they were, throughout) and we had bonus species such as nesting Senegal Parrot, 2 African Harrier-Hawks, Fine-spotted Woodpecker and gathering numbers of Hooded Vultures. They get fed in the hotel garden at 11.30am - try having a vulture land on a park bench next to you!
After lunch, and the first tricky species in the shape of a singing Oriole Warbler in the Bouganvillea near the pool, we headed off for Bijilo Forest Park, just a few hundred metres to the south. Two more Oriole Warblers showed well, plus Black-necked Weaver, Greater Honeyguide, Bleating Camaroptera, Green-backed Eremomela, both commoner hornbills, Little Bee-eater and a troupe of Western Red Colobus monkeys. Bijilo Forest is a strange and lovely place - dense stands of ancient palms on fixed sand dunes, reminding me of nothing less than a hyper-arid Kingley Vale Yew forest!
21st December
An early start again and off to Kotu Creek for more acclimatization and common bird finding! We scored instantly with Senegal Thick-knees on the mud, and, shaking off various insistent potential guides, we explored the creek and sewage ponds, swiftly finding Hamerkop, Yellow-billed Egret, Grey Kestrel, Blue-bellied Roller, Green Wood Hoopoe, Lanner Falcon, Lizard Buzzard, White-faced Whistling Duck and Red-chested Swallow. With lots of familiar European gulls, terns and waders around, we weren't too surprised to find a first-winter Little Gull - but we should have been taking a description. See the systematic list for details…. The Fajara golf course turned up African Golden Oriole, African Wattled Lapwing and Bearded Barbet.
By noon it was getting too hot, so we retreated for a snooze and some drinks. By 4ish, it was cooler again, and we tried the Kotu area again, this time concentrating on the casino cycle track end. We scored with feeding Black Egrets, doing their famous umbrella routine - though we thought they looked more like evil Victorian arch-villians with cloaks! Also Variable Sunbird and the Little Gull again.
22nd December
With a mild attack of Banjul belly, we stayed close to home this morning, and reworked Bijilo. As ever in forests, the going was slow at times, but four hours of careful searching turned up some real quality birds in the shapes of Levaillant's Cuckoo, Red-necked Falcon, Blue-breasted Kingfisher, Blue-spotted and Black-billed Wood Doves, Stone Partridge, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater and Snowy-crowned Robin-chat.
Lunchtime was again a medicinal recovery session, but I felt fine for a trip to Cape Point in the late afternoon. This was a lovely quiet area, with tons of good species such as Blue-cheeked Bee-eater (at last!), Abyssinian Roller, Striped Kingfisher, Pink-backed Pelican and more.
23rd December
We chose to do Bund Road today, but judged the tide rather poorly - it was high, and so we saw few waders. Nevertheless, there was plenty of activity, with West African Crested Tern, Slender-billed Gull, Avocet, Malachite Kingfisher, and lots of the commoner waterside birds and raptors.
In the afternoon, we met up with Dusty Gedge, a London-based birder, at our hotel, and we did the "dude's bird walk" around the garden with him and Mass Cham. Excellent views of Snowy-crowned Robin-chat, Bearded Barbet, African Harrier-Hawks and various Glossy Starlings.
24th December
Now the serious birding began! Solomon Jallow picked us up at 7.30am, along with his friend Foday Chorr and our driver, Kamara. We picked up Steve and Teresa Isaacs from the Palma Rima Hotel, and headed off up country. First stop was Pirang former shrimp farm - lots of dried out lakes and mud flats, and perfect to warm up. Plain-backed Pipit, Mosque Swallow and Quail-finch were the best birds.
Next, on to Bamakuno Forest, where an hour in the woods produced some great birds such as the very tricky Yellow Penduline Tit, White-fronted Black Chat, Brown-backed Woodpecker, Vieilliot's Barbet, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Little Weaver, Village Indigobird and Julia's 1000th species, Black-rumped Waxbill.
En route to Tendaba, we had several stops for goodies like African Cuckoo, Martial Eagle, Brown Snake Eagle, Grasshopper Buzzard and African Woolly-necked Stork, but by our 2pm arrival it was getting hot and uncomfortable again!
A lengthy lunch was followed by our pirogue boat trip up the mangrove creek on the opposite side of the Gambia River, which is about a mile wide at Tendaba.
This was a fantastic experience, with West African Crocodile, Mangrove Sunbird, African Blue Flycatcher, African Darter, Striated Heron, Black-crowned Night Heron, Spur-winged Goose, African Hobby and Blue-breasted, Woodland and Malachite Kingfishers. But about 200 metres from our re-emergence onto the main river, the engine stopped…and the spare didn't work! Our skipper cheerfully encouraged his mate to start paddling while he tinkered and fiddled. Still nothing! We drifted silently towards the river - and suddenly a White-crowned Tiger Heron crossed the creek, right in front of us! Crippling! Sadly, the boat was crippled too, and we gamely headed out onto the river in failing light with only about 5% power (in fact, I think we were in reverse, with the engine turned round!).
Things started to look a bit hairy, as we hit the main stream and failed to keep our heading for the camp on the south bank. We started blowing SOS on our whistles, and shouting a lot, but no-one seemed to be hearing us. By now it was virtually dark, and we were in mid-river. Then we noticed that a largish boat had turned around in the river, and had dropped anchor. Were we saved? A flare went up and we cheered! The skipper gratefully headed for the boat, but as we approached, it became clear that they hadn't heard us at all - this was a tourist boat, and the flare had been their dinner gong!
We sang Christmas carols at the tops of our voices (it was Christmas Eve) to attract their attention - and that worked! We drew alongside and tied up, and boarded for a celebratory bottle of wine from the bar. The (very friendly) Swedes and Finns on board had thought we were part of the entertainment when we emerged from the darkness! Finally, we got home….150 species today!
25th December
Christmas day started with a hour or two at the so-called 'airfield' at Tendaba, with goodies like Western Banded Snake Eagle, Mottled Spinetail, Pygmy Sunbird and White-rumped Seedeater, plus distant views of an African Fish Eagle nest. Then off to the Yellitenda Ferry. This is the main crossing point for vehicles running from northern to southern Senegal or vice versa, and was thus very busy. Despite bribery and corruption, we still had to wait for almost three hours - the only good news was a distant Black Crowned Crane and the fact that the wait was in the poorest part of the day for birding.
Finally, we crossed, and made our way slowly, on ever worsening roads, along the northern bank of the river, making frequent stops en route for excellent species like Exclamatory Paradise Whydah, Cut-throat Finch, Sudan Golden Sparrow, Cinnamon-breasted Bunting, Bruce's Green Pigeon, Abyssinian Ground Hornbill, Black Crake, Little Bittern and African Pygmy Goose. We eventrually reached the Baobolong Camp at 8 o'clock - and the ferry was broken! So it was across the river on a passenger only pirogue, and finally into bed. 126 species in the day!
26th December
Too much of today was spent travelling, but nevertheless we saw some real cripplers on the way back to the coast, the best by far being the Red-throated Bee-eaters at Bansang. Also Yellow-gorgeted Greenbul, further Cut-throat Finches and African Golden Oriole, Four-banded Sandgrouse, Great White Pelican, Wahlberg's Eagle, African Hobby and Marabou Stork.
27th December
Definitely a day off required - we spent it all until 4ish in the hotel! A brief walk to Bijilo in the evening produced a singing Oriole Warbler and Snowy-crowned Robin-chat.
28th December
We spent the morning in the Kotu area, devoting our time to photography rather than pure birding. Nevertheless, we were rewarded with two Barbary Falcons - this is a true mega in Gambia - plus another Levaillant's Cuckoo, plenty of Black Egrets and more besides.
Our plans for another quiet afternoon (guts again) were rudely shattered by the discovery of mobbing passerines - and their target, a fantastic Spotted Eagle-Owl. We were able to watch it right round the garden, pursued latterly by Pied Crows! Amazingly, on our way back to the room, and feeling elated, I looked up and there was a Barn Owl being mobbed in a tree - ridiculous!
29th December
Another brilliant day out with Steve, Teresa and Solomon, though also with a (frankly) rather difficult German woman whom we'd met briefly the day before. Off we went to Abuko, where our investment in Solomon's time was quickly repaid - he was fantastic, locating in short order Yellow-chested Apalis, Little Greenbul, Green Hylia, Grey-headed Bristlebill and Yellow-gorgeted Greenbul. We also had Verreaux's Eagle-Owl at the nest, both African Paradise Flycatcher species, a juvenile Black Crake, Common Wattle-eye, Orange-cheeked Waxbill and a soaring Booted Eagle, plus West African Crocodiles, a Bushbuck and a Marsh Mongoose.
Lunch was at Lamin Lodge, with Gull-billed Tern and Blue-cheeked Bee-eater for company, and then after a Northern White-faced Owl in dense bamboo (watched, not eaten), we headed round the fields of Lamin and Yundum. Sadly, the Temminck's Coursers failed to perform, but we did score with Western Bonelli's Warbler, Pygmy Sunbird and Striped Kingfisher, plus useful 'padders' like Whinchat, Northern Wheatear and Woodchat Shrike (the three Ws!).
Abuko rice fields next - this place was heaving with herons, egrets and more, such as our only Pied-winged Swallows, a West African Pied Hornbill, and African Crake. Solomon saw the last disappearing into a rice paddy, and we assumed our chance had gone, but Julia relocated it on the earth bund a few minutes later for crippling, if brief views.
Finally, off to Kotu - no Pearl-spotted Owlet, alas, but good views of both nightjars, and the bonus of a fly over African Scops Owl.
30th December
An early seawatch from the Senegambia (Pomarine Skua, Audouin's Gull, Lesser Crested and West African Crested Terns). Today we went to a wedding - a very high Roman Catholic mass, with incense and the choir accompanied by drums rather than an organ! Also a big reception at the local school, and more food and dancing afterwards in the village. Exhausting and very interesting - but no birds!
31st December
We met up with Steve and Teresa again, and Kamara drove us to Brufut Woods for our self-guided day! The birding was excellent from the very start - Fanti Saw-wing, Black Scimitarbill, Grey-headed Bush-shrike, Green-headed and Western Violet-backed Sunbirds, Common Nightingale, Northern Puffback, Pied Hornbill, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, Pin-tailed Whydah, Klaas's Cuckoo, Northern Crombec, Cardinal Woodpecker, plus brief views of a dark grey/blue cuckoo with a hefty bright yellow bill - Blue Malkoha!
Brufut bridge produced more Black Crakes, and then Tanji turned up more goodies, such as Goliath Heron, Audouin's Gull, Slender-billed Gull, lots of terns and more Fanti Saw-wings.
1st January
A new millennium, and our final full day - and after a late night, it was tough getting up at 6.30am! But we made it to Abuko good and early, and were rewarded with an almost empty reserve. Much the same birds as before, plus a cracking African Pygmy Kingfisher, and a final flourish with three juvenile White-backed Night Herons roosting in deep cover by the main Crocodile Pool. Fantastic - and we then retreated for snoozes back at the hotel.
2nd January
We only had a half day left, and had decided well ahead of time to go on the Birds & Breakfast tour to Lamin Lodge. It is perhaps better termed 'Dudes and Breakfast', but we had a very pleasant morning at a slower pace, picking up one new species in the form of Yellow-billed Stork, plus more Mangrove Sunbirds, and a couple of surprise Violet Turacos.
White-faced Whistling Duck | Dendrocygna viduata | A resident flock of about forty birds was at Kotu sewage ponds |
African Pygmy Goose | Nettapus auritus | Six at a pond near Georgetown provided a real bonus |
Spur-winged Goose | Plectropterus gambensis | Two juveniles and eight adults at Tendaba |
Stone Partridge | Ptilopachus petrosus | Four seen well at Bijilo, and another by the roadside at dusk near Georgetown |
Double-spurred Spurfowl | Pternistis bicalcaratus | Up to five noted at numerous sites |
Little Grebe | Tachybaptus ruficollis | Up to three at Kotu sewage ponds |
Western Plantain-eater | Crinifer piscator | Noted every day but one, max. 10 on two dates. Highly conspicuous, noisy and silly-looking |
Violet Turaco | Tauraco violaceus | Heard on two occasions in Bijilo Forest, and again at Pirang, and then finally seen well at Abuko (5+). Also 2 at the rather surprising site of Lamin Lodge |
Guinea Turaco | Tauraco persa | 5+ seen on one visit to Abuko, but no sign the second time. This is very much the harder species to see, but we were lucky to have several of each in the same tree by the photographic hide. Both species are astonishingly beautiful |
Senegal Coucal | Centropus senegalensis | A common bird, seen daily in varying numbers. The hollow, vaguely Hoopoe-like song is a characteristic sound of drier areas |
Blue Malkoha | Ceuthmochares aereus | Very brief but diagnostic flight views of one at Brufut Woods. It was flushed from dense vegetation and disappeared into a tangled, climber covered bush thicket |
Great Spotted Cuckoo | Clamator glandarius | An adult in flight at Cape Point was the only one seen |
Levaillant's Cuckoo | Clamator levaillantii | Two juveniles - one at Bijilo and the other at Kotu sewage ponds. The adults have all moved on by December, but juveniles continue to be fed by their hosts (apparently mostly babblers) until January |
Klaas's Cuckoo | Chrysococcyx klaas | One at Brufut Woods |
African Cuckoo | Cuculus gularis | Two in the same tree at the roadside near Brumen Bridge |
Four-banded Sandgrouse | Pterocles quadricinctus | Two at dusk near Georgetown, and two feeding on the track near there the next morning |
Laughing Dove | Spilopelia senegalensis | Common throughout |
Vinaceous Dove | Streptopelia vinacea | Common throughout |
Red-eyed Dove | Streptopelia semitorquata | Common throughout |
Mourning Collared Dove | Streptopelia decipiens | Present but not common near the coast, but frequent inland |
Speckled Pigeon | Columba guinea | Common throughout |
Rock Dove | Columba livia | Not common, but a few in most settlements |
Namaqua Dove | Oena capensis | A female at Kotu sewage ponds, 41 noted inland, and a male at Lamin Lodge |
Blue-spotted Wood Dove | Turtur afer | Two at Bijilo and three at Abuko |
Black-billed Wood Dove | Turtur abyssinicus | Seen every day bar two, but in low numbers, max. 10 in the Brufut area |
Bruce's Green Pigeon | Treron waalia | Two flew over the road near Georgetown, then 1 at Tanji and another at Lamin Lodge |
Black Crowned Crane | Balearica pavonina | One seen distantly and briefly in flight at Yellitenda Ferry |
African Crake | Crecopsis egregia | One of the highlights of the trip was brief but excellent views of one in full view on an earth bund at Abuko rice fields. Very much an 'African Corncrake', this species is hardly ever observed by visitors to Gambia |
Common Moorhen | Gallinula chloropus | Four at two wet sites near Georgetown |
Purple Swamphen | Porphyrio porphyrio | A single at a rapidly drying swamp near Georgetown |
Black Crake | Zapornia flavirostra | Two at a pond near Georgetown, the same juvenile on two occasions at Abuko, and up to 3 at Brufut Bridge |
Senegal Thick-knee | Burhinus senegalensis | Far from being tricky, as expected, this species was easy to see. Kotu Creek is a dependable site for up to a dozen, and there were smaller numbers at various other spots. But the undoubted highlight was 31 in the air together at a swamp near Georgetown |
Pied Avocet | Recurvirostra avosetta | Eight flew over at Bund Road |
Black-winged Stilt | Himantopus himantopus | Frequent at all wetland sites, with particularly large numbers at Kotu sewage ponds |
Eurasian Oystercatcher | Haematopus ostralegus | Two at Bund Road |
Grey Plover | Pluvialis squatarola | Nine seen on four dates |
Common Ringed Plover | Charadrius hiaticula | Seventeen noted on five dates |
Little Ringed Plover | Thinornis dubius | Eight noted at the inland sites of Pirang and Tendaba |
Spur-winged Lapwing | Vanellus spinosus | Common throughout |
Black-headed Lapwing | Vanellus tectus | Seen in single figures on most dates |
African Wattled Lapwing | Vanellus senegallus | Quite scarce, and only seen on six dates, max. 10 at Fajara |
African Jacana | Actophilornis africanus | Eleven seen, with a max. of six together at Abuko rice fields |
Eurasian Whimbrel | Numenius phaeopus | The most frequent larger wader - up to 10 at all mangrove and coastal sites |
Bar-tailed Godwit | Limosa lapponica | Seventeen seen at various coastal mangrove sites |
Black-tailed Godwit | Limosa limosa | Two flying over Kotu Creek, and a group of 12 in damp fields near there |
Common Sandpiper | Actitis hypoleucos | Frequent in all mangrove creeks, with up to 10 at Kotu Creek |
Green Sandpiper | Tringa ochropus | One at Tendaba, one at Kotu sewage ponds, and another at Abuko rice fields |
Wood Sandpiper | Tringa glareola | Up to 25 at Kotu sewage ponds, and a handful at other sites |
Common Redshank | Tringa totanus | Fourteen seen on seven dates |
Common Greenshank | Tringa nebularia | Noted in single figures at all suitable sites |
Ruddy Turnstone | Arenaria interpres | Two at Kotu Creek, 1 at Bund Road, 10 at Tendaba and 10+ at Tanji |
Ruff | Calidris pugnax | Seventeen noted at four sites |
Curlew Sandpiper | Calidris ferruginea | Two at Camalou Corner, eight at Pirang and one at Lamin Lodge |
Sanderling | Calidris alba | 5+ on the beach at Tanji |
Dunlin | Calidris alpina | Just one seen, at Tendaba |
Little Stint | Calidris minuta | Four at Pirang and one at Tendaba |
Collared Pratincole | Glareola pratincola | Ten at a swamp near Georgetown |
Parasitic Jaeger | Stercorarius parasiticus | Two noted offshore. Also 3 unidentified skuas seen |
Pomarine Jaeger | Stercorarius pomarinus | Four noted offshore on two dates |
Caspian Tern | Hydroprogne caspia | Generally the commoner large tern offshore, with several almost daily, and 32+ at the Tanji roost |
Gull-billed Tern | Gelochelidon nilotica | Five singles recorded, at Tendaba, Kotu Creek and Lamin Lodge |
Black Tern | Chlidonias niger | Just 2 noted offshore |
Sandwich Tern | Thalasseus sandvicensis | Twos and threes noted most days offshore, and about 32 at the Tanji roost |
Royal Tern | Thalasseus maximus | Ten at Bund Road, a further thirteen or so offshore and about 100 at the Tanji roost |
Lesser Crested Tern | Thalasseus bengalensis | One close inshore at the Senegambia Hotel, and a further 5 or so probables the same day there |
Common Tern | Sterna hirundo | Nine noted offshore, and just one in the Tanji roost |
Little Gull | Hydrocoloeus minutus | A first-winter at Kotu Creek raised few eyebrows until we read in the book that evening that there have been fewer than ten previous Gambian records! This bird turned out to have been present for some days, and had been twitched heavily - in Gambian terms! |
Slender-billed Gull | Chroicocephalus genei | 10+ at Bund Road and one in the Tanji roost |
Grey-headed Gull | Chroicocephalus cirrocephalus | Ever present at the coast in varying numbers |
Audouin's Gull | Ichthyaetus audouinii | A 3rd winter flew north at the Senegambia Hotel beach, and a 2nd winter was in the Tanji roost |
Caspian Gull | Larus cachinnans | Three noted offshore |
Lesser Black-backed Gull | Larus fuscus | Eighteen noted on five dates |
Marabou Stork | Leptoptilos crumenifer | Ten adults and 2 ugly juveniles in a large tree near Brikama |
Yellow-billed Stork | Mycteria ibis | Not seen until the final day, when four flew over the mangroves at Lamin Lodge |
African Woolly-necked Stork | Ciconia microscelis | Eight on swampy grasslands near Tendaba |
Northern Gannet | Morus bassanus | Eleven noted offshore on 3 dates. All were first year birds |
African Darter | Anhinga rufa | One at Cape Point, 10 at Tendaba, and up to 4 at Abuko |
Reed Cormorant | Microcarbo africanus | Noted in small numbers on 10 dates, with 25+ at Bund Road |
African Spoonbill | Platalea alba | One at Pirang, then four at Tendaba and another four at Brumen Bridge |
African Sacred Ibis | Threskiornis aethiopicus | Five flew over at Kotu Creek, and another did the same at Lamin Lodge |
Hamerkop | Scopus umbretta | Noted almost daily at a variety of sites, max. 10 at Kotu Creek. A pair was nest building near to the island 'brown' at Fajara golf course |
Great White Pelican | Pelecanus onocrotalus | One flying overhead and another on the river at Brumen Bridge |
Pink-backed Pelican | Pelecanus rufescens | About 100 noted, with most around the mouth of the Gambia River and at Tendaba. Most were in heavy wing moult |
White-crested Tiger Heron | Tigriornis leucolopha | This near mythical species was not even on our wish list! And yet a single bird flew across the creek at Tendaba just as dusk was falling, less than 100m from the main river. Although a nest was located two seasons ago, this remains a virtually impossible species to see - Solomon hadn't seen one for over a year |
Little Bittern | Botaurus minutus | An adult male, apparently of the migratory European race, was at a pond near Georgetown |
White-backed Night Heron | Calherodius leuconotus | The final flourish of the trip was provided by three juveniles roosting in deep cover at the Crocodile Pool, Abuko. These were locally bred birds - the nest could be seen on an overhanging branch to the right of the main photographic hide |
Black Heron | Egretta ardesiaca | 36 sightings overall, with the most reliable site being Kotu Creek, especially the rice fields towards the Palma Rima |
Western Reef Heron | Egretta gularis | The commonest 'water heron', with almost daily sightings of good numbers in saline and brackish habitats. Virtually all were wholly dark birds, but there were two white birds together at Abuko rice fields |
Little Egret | Egretta garzetta | Only 11 seen, and never more than 2 in a day |
Black-crowned Night Heron | Nycticorax nycticorax | Three at Tendaba, singles over Kotu Creek and Lamin Lodge, and up to six roosting at the Crocodile Pool, Abuko |
Little Heron | Butorides atricapilla | Fifteen recorded, mostly at mangrove sites, but also in rice fields at Abuko and Kotu Creek |
Squacco Heron | Ardeola ralloides | 20 noted on 8 dates, with most around Tendaba and Kotu Creek |
Great Egret | Ardea alba | Noted on seven dates, always in low numbers. Most around Kotu Creek and Lamin/Abuko |
Yellow-billed Egret | Ardea brachyrhyncha | Seven noted on 6 dates, most often at Kotu Creek |
Western Cattle Egret | Ardea ibis | Abundant throughout |
Purple Heron | Ardea purpurea | Ten noted, with a max. of 4 at Lamin Lodge. Most of those seen well were first-year birds |
Black-headed Heron | Ardea melanocephala | 23 seen on 6 dates - max. 10 at Abuko. Often quite far from water |
Goliath Heron | Ardea goliath | One in the creek at Tendaba, and another in the coastal lagoon by Tanji bridge |
Grey Heron | Ardea cinerea | Noted in single figures on 11 dates. The local African form seems much more washed out and paler headed than European birds |
Standard-winged Nightjar | Caprimulgus longipennis | 5+ at dusk at the Casino cycle track. The two species of nightjar are readily distinguishable by structure and the presence or absence of white in the wing |
Long-tailed Nightjar | Caprimulgus climacurus | One flushed from the road near Georgetown at dusk, and at least 2 at dusk at the Casino cycle track |
Mottled Spinetail | Telacanthura ussheri | 3+ over the woods at Tendaba, and a further 5 at Brufut Woods |
African Palm Swift | Cypsiurus parvus | Seen every day but one, in small numbers, always around palms |
Little Swift | Apus affinis | Common at Bund Road, Cape Point and Tendaba, but away from these sites, only 3 noted |
Pallid Swift | Apus pallidus | About 25 noted in a condensed three day period, at the coast and inland. Might this suggest a small wave of migrants? |
Western Barn Owl | Tyto alba | One was found roosting in a tall tree by the Z block in the Senegambia Hotel gardens, mobbed by various passerines |
African Scops Owl | Otus senegalensis | A real highlight was good flight views of one over the Casino cycle track at dusk during a nightjar watch |
Northern White-faced Owl | Ptilopsis leucotis | One was watched roosting in dense bamboo near Lamin Lodge. Avid world listers would do well to note that Konig, Weick and Becking (1999) treat the birds occurring in Gambia as specifically distinct from those of southern and East Africa (leucotisas opposed to granti) |
Spotted Eagle-Owl | Bubo africanus | Perhaps the single most astonishing moment of the trip was the finding of this bird in the Senegambia Hotel gardens. Initially attracted by the sound of mobbing Bulbuls and Gonoleks, we followed the owl around the garden as it was chased mercilessly by Pied Crows. An incredible daylight sighting of a rare and difficult species - it was a new bird for the Hotel's (lengthy) bird list, and would have been a tick for Solomon, our immensely experienced guide! As for White-faced Scops Owl, Konig, Weick and Becking (1999) treat the Gambian form as distinct (cinerascens) from the southern nominate form |
Verreaux's Eagle-Owl | Ketupa lactea | The well staked out nesting bird showed excellently atop a palm tree beside the Abuko education centre |
Osprey | Pandion haliaetus | About 32 sightings recorded, with most at the coast and Kotu Creek |
Black-winged Kite | Elanus caeruleus | Fourteen noted, with a max. of 7 around Lamin and Yundum on one day |
African Harrier-Hawk | Polyboroides typus | Two noted on several occasions in the Senegambia Hotel gardens - their nest failed in 2000, but they continued to roost in the same tree every evening. Also a few singles at other sites |
Palm-nut Vulture | Gypohierax angolensis | Nine sightings noted, at Bijilo, Abuko and upriver |
Hooded Vulture | Necrosyrtes monachus | Very common - almost always on view near the coast |
White-backed Vulture | Gyps africanus | Thirteen seen at inland sites |
Rüppell's Vulture | Gyps rueppelli | Four noted at the roadside inland from Tendaba |
Bateleur | Terathopius ecaudatus | Distant views only of one at Brumen Bridge |
Western Banded Snake Eagle | Circaetus cinerascens | Two at Tendaba, at least one of them a juvenile |
Brown Snake Eagle | Circaetus cinereus | Four noted around Tendaba and Georgetown |
Martial Eagle | Polemaetus bellicosus | A superb juvenile was seen soaring over the savannah about 80 km inland |
Wahlberg's Eagle | Hieraaetus wahlbergi | Five inland, and another at Brufut |
Booted Eagle | Hieraaetus pennatus | One dark phase bird soaring with vultures over Abuko |
Gabar Goshawk | Micronisus gabar | One at a water-hole near Georgetown |
Dark Chanting Goshawk | Melierax metabates | Twelve noted on four dates, with all but 2 at Yundum well inland |
Lizard Buzzard | Kaupifalco monogrammicus | Eleven noted on 7 dates, with the best areas being Bijilo, Brufut and Abuko rice fields |
Shikra | Tachyspiza badia | Seventeen seen on 9 dates, almost all singly |
Montagu's Harrier | Circus pygargus | Two juveniles at Tendaba |
Western Marsh Harrier | Circus aeruginosus | Thirteen noted at various wetland sites. Interestingly, most were adult males |
Black Kite | Milvus migrans | Omnipresent. Both the local 'Yellow-billed' and the nominate European forms were present, but the latter was very much rarer |
African Fish Eagle | Icthyophaga vocifer | Two at the nest at Tendaba, and another flying along the river at Yellitenda Ferry |
Grasshopper Buzzard | Butastur rufipennis | Eleven along the roadside inland |
Common Hoopoe | Upupa epops | One in the Senegambia Hotel gardens on one date only |
Black Scimitarbill | Rhinopomastus aterrimus | Just one found, at Brufut Woods, but also reported from Bijilo |
Green Wood Hoopoe | Phoeniculus purpureus | Frequently recorded - upwards of 50 sightings on 10 dates. Usually in parties of 3-6, often feeding around tree trunks |
Abyssinian Ground Hornbill | Bucorvus abyssinicus | After dipping at Tendaba airfield, we were relieved to find three along the roadside toward Georgetown, two on the deck and the other perched grotesquely in a tree! One was also reported just south of Bijilio Forest |
West African Pied Hornbill | Lophoceros semifasciatus | One at Abuko rice fields and 3 at Brufut Woods |
African Grey Hornbill | Lophoceros nasutus | 27 recorded on nine dates at a wide scatter of sites. Also frequently heard calling |
Northern Red-billed Hornbill | Tockus erythrorhynchus | The commonest hornbill, with daily records of up to 20 birds |
Broad-billed Roller | Eurystomus glaucurus | 36 recorded on eleven dates, max. 10 around the Senegambia Hotel. A most confusing bird, with a habit of being called as a pigeon, raptor or something else entirely on most occasions! |
Blue-bellied Roller | Coracias cyanogaster | Nineteen sighting recorded on seven dates, max. 6 around Lamin and Abuko rice fields. The grumbling, nasal call often attracts attention before the bird is seen |
Purple Roller | Coracias naevius | Five along the roadside inland, and one en route to the airport on the last day |
Abyssinian Roller | Coracias abyssinicus | Only six noted at the coast, notably at Cape Point, but very common inland |
Red-throated Bee-eater | Merops bulocki | The nesting colony at the Bansang sand quarry yielded fantastic views of upwards of 20 birds |
Little Bee-eater | Merops pusillus | About 100 noted at a variety of sites, on eight dates. The distinctive, almost White Wagtail like call is easily learnt |
Swallow-tailed Bee-eater | Merops hirundineus | 10+ at Bijilo Forest, 3 at Tendaba and 5 at Brufut Woods |
White-throated Bee-eater | Merops albicollis | Four hunting over the creek at Tendaba. Also reported from Bijilo - the species is very rare at the coast, at least at this time of year |
European Bee-eater | Merops apiaster | About 50 noted during the trip up country |
Blue-cheeked Bee-eater | Merops persicus | 32+ at Cape Point, 25 at Bund Road, and a further fourteen noted at various sites such as Tendaba and Lamin Lodge. The call is surprisingly distinct from the European species, being less liquid and rather more disyllabic |
African Pygmy Kingfisher | Ispidina picta | One watched for several minutes in dense gallery forest at Abuko |
Malachite Kingfisher | Corythornis cristatus | Two at Bund Road, 10+ at Tendaba, one near Bansang and 3 at Lamin Lodge |
Giant Kingfisher | Megaceryle maxima | We held out until day 11 for this species, but were rewarded on both visits to Abuko by fantastic close range views of the regular pair at the Abuko Crocodile Pool. Huge and very noisy. Also reported from Tanji |
Pied Kingfisher | Ceryle rudis | Far and away the commonest kingfisher, with birds at almost all wetland sites. The best spot was probably Bund Road, where upwards of 20 were fishing from bushes and wires |
Blue-breasted Kingfisher | Halcyon malimbica | Singles at Bijilo and Abuko, but about 10 in the creek at Tendaba |
Woodland Kingfisher | Halcyon senegalensis | Brief views of one at Tendaba |
Striped Kingfisher | Halcyon chelicuti | Two at Cape Point, one at Yundum, and another heard at Bamakuno Forest |
Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird | Pogoniulus chrysoconus | Two at Bamakuno Forest, and another at Yundum |
Bearded Barbet | Pogonornis dubius | Ten recorded on six dates, from the Senegambia Hotel to Tendaba |
Vieillot's Barbet | Lybius vieilloti | Two at Bamakuno Forest, and 1 at Tendaba |
Lesser Honeyguide | Indicator minor | One at Brufut Woods |
Greater Honeyguide | Indicator indicator | One at Bijilo Forest and another at Bamakuno Forest |
Fine-spotted Woodpecker | Campethera punctuligera | Five noted on four dates at a variety of sites |
Brown-backed Woodpecker | Dendropicos obsoletus | One at Bamakuno Forest |
Eastern Grey Woodpecker | Dendropicos spodocephalus | Five singles recorded on five dates |
Cardinal Woodpecker | Dendropicos fuscescens | Onevisiting a nest hole at Brufut Woods |
Grey Kestrel | Falco ardosiaceus | Eleven seen on 7 dates, and often in pairs |
African Hobby | Falco cuvierii | Three seen, at Tendaba, Bansang and Abuko. Two were perched up, showing the deep rufous underparts to good effect |
Red-necked Falcon | Falco chicquera | A single flew quickly north along the beach at Bijilo, giving excellent but brief views |
Barbary Falcon | Falco peregrinus pelegrinoides | Two were at Kotu sewage ponds 28th December. They were first seen distantly in flight, possibly hunting cooperatively, and left unidentified, but they circled back and perched in full view in a large Baobab. Their distinctive 'whippy' flight action and small size, combined with the correct head pattern, left no doubt over the identification. This species is at best very rare in Gambia, and has been recorded only as a vagrant in Senegal. |
Lanner Falcon | Falco biarmicus | Singles at Kotu Creek, Bijilo and Pirang |
Senegal Parrot | Poicephalus senegalus | Seen every day bar two, max. 8. A pair was nesting in a dead palm in the 'bird garden' at the Senegambia Hotel |
Rose-ringed Parakeet | Psittacula krameri | Seen almost daily in single figures |
Black-crowned Tchagra | Tchagra senegalus | One at Bamakuno Forest, two near Georgetown, and heard in song at Lamin Lodge |
Grey-headed Bushshrike | Malaconotus blanchoti | One fantastic bird at Brufut Woods. The bird has two extraordinary and different calls - a haunting and clear whistle, and a Jay-like squawk! |
Northern Puffback | Dryoscopus gambensis | A male at Tendaba, and prolonged views of a female at Brufut Woods |
Yellow-crowned Gonolek | Laniarius barbarus | We found this to be a common and easily observed bird - but then we were staying at the Senegambia Hotel! Outside this site, it is a much more tricky bird to see, though its loud and mellifluous song makes location straightforward. The distinctive and loud "wee wee tchak!" call is in fact a duet between male and female |
Brown-throated Wattle-eye | Platysteira cyanea | Heard singing at Tendaba and Lamin Lodge, and six sightings at Abuko. The song is remarkably musical and attractive |
African Golden Oriole | Oriolus auratus | Single males at Baobolong Camp, the Fajara golf course and Tanji, and two at Bamakuno Forest |
Fork-tailed Drongo | Dicrurus adsimilis | Nineteen noted on seven dates |
Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher | Terpsiphone rufiventer | Five noted at Abuko, and more surprisingly one in bamboo near Lamin Lodge |
African Paradise Flycatcher | Terpsiphone viridis | Two singles noted at Abuko |
Yellow-billed Shrike | Corvinella corvina | Noted on every date but two, max. 20 around the Kotu area. Mostly in small family parties |
Woodchat Shrike | Lanius senator | A juvenile at Lamin and an adult at Yundum |
Piapiac | Ptilostomus afer | Common throughout, especially around the Senegambia Hotel and near livestock |
Pied Crow | Corvus albus | Seen daily in good numbers |
African Blue Flycatcher | Elminia longicauda | Several heard and two seen in the creek at Tendaba |
Yellow Penduline Tit | Anthoscopus parvulus | A major highlight of the trip was the location of one at Bamakuno Forest |
Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Lark | Eremopterix leucotis | About 10 noted along the road on the north bank of the river east of Tendaba |
Crested Lark | Galerida cristata | Just five recorded, at Pirang and Tendaba |
Northern Crombec | Sylvietta brachyura | One at Cape Point and another 2 at Brufut Woods |
Senegal Eremomela | Eremomela pusilla | Seven noted on five dates, at sites such as Bijilo and Lamin Lodge |
Bleating Camaroptera | Camaroptera brachyura | Heard almost daily ('Bleating Warbler') and several seen, especially at sites like Bijilo and Brufut |
Yellow-breasted Apalis | Apalis flavida | One heard only at Abuko |
Tawny-flanked Prinia | Prinia subflava | 27 noted on five dates, mostly at Kotu Creek and Tendaba |
Oriole Warbler | Hypergerus atriceps | This is a hard bird to see, and so we were delighted when one burst into song on our first afternoon at the Senegambia Hotel, right by Mass Cham's bird-hut! It proved elusive at first, but eventually emerged from dense cover to give good views. Two more were seen at Bijilo Forest later that day, but although we heard the song on two further occasions, we never saw another Moho |
Zitting Cisticola | Cisticola juncidis | About 10 noted, mostly around Cape Point and Kotu Creek. The lack of other Cisticola species was surprising, disappointing and a relief! |
Melodious Warbler | Hippolais polyglotta | About 10 heard in song and several seen at a variety of sites |
Western Olivaceous Warbler | Iduna opaca | Two sightings in the Senegambia Hotel gardens, and another heard at Georgetown |
Sedge Warbler | Acrocephalus schoenobaenus | Two heard and one seen during the trip up country |
Common Reed Warbler | Acrocephalus scirpaceus | Two singing at Bund Road |
Fanti Saw-wing | Psalidoprocne obscura | After no sightings at Abuko, we were relieved to find 5 at Brufut Woods, and a further 13 at Tanji |
Sand Martin | Riparia riparia | Two over the creek at Tendaba |
Pied-winged Swallow | Hirundo leucosoma | 2+ were located over Abuko rice fields. Great care is required if views are brief, since several hirundines with worn or moulting wing feathers gave rise to false alarms earlier |
Wire-tailed Swallow | Hirundo smithii | 34 noted on five dates, mostly at Kotu and Pirang |
Barn Swallow | Hirundo rustica | Recorded in very small numbers at Kotu Creek and sewage ponds, and perhaps at Pirang. There is uncertainty about this species' winter status in Gambia, but it is clearly very scarce at best |
Red-chested Swallow | Hirundo lucida | Much the commoner 'swallow', with 50+ noted, but still far from abundant |
Western House Martin | Delichon urbicum | 1+ at Pirang and a further 2 at Lamin Lodge |
Mosque Swallow | Cecropis senegalensis | Two at Pirang, 2 at Tendaba and a further 5 at the roadside near Brikama |
European Red-rumped Swallow | Cecropis rufula | Small numbers around Tendaba |
Green Hylia | Hylia prasina | This is another difficult species to see. We heard at least two in Abuko on the first trip, and eventually saw one well - resembling an Arctic Warbler on steroids. Once we had learnt the bird's two highly distinctive calls (an insistent but quiet double whistle, and a Spectacled Warbler-like rattle), we easily located another on the next visit. Also reported from Lamin Lodge |
Western Bonelli's Warbler | Phylloscopus bonelli | One in an acacia tree at Yundum, calling |
Common Chiffchaff | Phylloscopus collybita | Four seen and another heard on five dates |
Grey-headed Bristlebill | Bleda canicapillus | One at Abuko. This is a shy and rarely seen forest-dweller, and we were lucky to have good views on the leaf litter |
Yellow-gorgeted Greenbul | Atimastillas flavicollis | One at Baobolong Camp, Georgetown and another at Abuko |
Little Greenbul | Eurillas virens | Three seen and others heard singing on each visit to Abuko |
Common Bulbul | Pycnonotus barbatus | Abundant throughout |
Eurasian Blackcap | Sylvia atricapilla | Two females recorded |
Western Subalpine Warbler | Curruca iberiae | Single males at Kotu, Cape Point and Tanji, and a female at Tendaba |
Brown Babbler | Turdoides plebejus | Noisy and gregarious, and noted every day |
Blackcap Babbler | Turdoides reinwardtii | Noisy and gregarious, and noted almost every day |
Yellow-billed Oxpecker | Buphagus africanus | One near Brikama and another two near Yundum. Almost any herd of cattle could hold this species |
Long-tailed Glossy Starling | Lamprotornis caudatus | The commonest starling, with small and noisy parties frequently seen throughout |
Lesser Blue-eared Starling | Lamprotornis chloropterus | A few singles in the Senegambia Hotel gardens, and 20 near Brikama |
Greater Blue-eared Starling | Lamprotornis chalybaeus | Up to 10 recorded on 8 dates |
Purple Starling | Lamprotornis purpureus | About 20 identified with certainty, the best site being the Senegambia Hotel gardens, where mixed flocks of starlings come to wash and drink by the golf course. Purple has absurd saucer-like eyes and a disproportionately large head, like something out of a cartoon |
Bronze-tailed Starling | Lamprotornis chalcurus | About 25 noted on six dates. The short-tailed look is distinctive in flight |
African Thrush | Turdus pelios | Common in the Senegambia Hotel gardens, but rather elusive elsewhere, and seen mostly at Bijilo and Abuko |
Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin | Cercotrichas galactotes | One briefly at the roadside north of the river |
Northern Black Flycatcher | Melaenornis edolioides | Recorded at the Senegambia Hotel gardens, where up to four were noted, and at Tanji, where there were two |
Snowy-crowned Robin-Chat | Cossypha niveicapilla | Two at Bijilo Forest, just by the entrance gate, and two on each visit to Abuko. But again the best site was the Senegambia Hotel, where at least one was regularly present along the Bougainvillea hedge on the northern boundary, especially near dripping taps |
White-crowned Robin-Chat | Cossypha albicapillus | The same comments as for Yellow-crowned Gonolek could apply for this species. It is an easy bird at the Senegambia Hotel, but scarce and tricky elsewhere. Up to 10 in a day estimated in the gardens |
Common Nightingale | Luscinia megarhynchos | One in full song at Brufut Woods, but as ever, hidden in dense cover |
Common Redstart | Phoenicurus phoenicurus | One from the vehicle along the roadside north of the river |
Whinchat | Saxicola rubetra | One at Lamin |
Anteater Chat | Myrmecocichla aethiops | About five around a village well near Tendaba. this is apparently a classic nest-site habitat |
Northern Wheatear | Oenanthe oenanthe | One at Yundum |
White-fronted Black Chat | Oenanthe albifrons | Three sightings in two visits to Bamakuno Forest |
Mangrove Sunbird | Anthreptes gabonicus | The classic site for this species is the mangroves in the creek at Tendaba, and we succeeded in seeing up to 10 here, along with their tiny and distinctive nests. However, we were not aware that they are also found at Lamin Lodge, where we saw three on our boat trip |
Western Violet-backed Sunbird | Anthreptes longuemarei | A stunning adult male at Brufut Woods, initially strung at a distance as a Violet-backed Starling! |
Collared Sunbird | Hedydipna collaris | Upwards of three at Abuko, but hard to see in the tree canopy |
Pygmy Sunbird | Hedydipna platura | Four around Tendaba, and a male at Yundum |
Green-headed Sunbird | Cyanomitra verticalis | Two males and a probable female at Brufut Woods |
Scarlet-chested Sunbird | Chalcomitra senegalensis | Three at Bamakuno Forest |
Beautiful Sunbird | Cinnyris pulchellus | The commonest sunbird, but scarce inland |
Splendid Sunbird | Cinnyris coccinigastrus | Up to four noted on most dates |
Variable Sunbird | Cinnyris venustus | Seen on five dates along the coast. The song is highly distinctive, resembling a European Wren, but lacking the rattling phrase |
White-billed Buffalo Weaver | Bubalornis albirostris | Flocks of up to 36 birds noted on six dates at a variety of sites |
Little Weaver | Ploceus luteolus | One at Bamakuno Forest |
Black-necked Weaver | Ploceus nigricollis | Single females at Bijilo on two occasions, and rather more of both sexes at Abuko and Brufut Woods. The common English name is highly inappropriate for the West African form of this widespread African species! A potential split? |
Village Weaver | Ploceus cucullatus | Abundant near habitation, especially at the Senegambia Hotel. Nearly all were in drab post-breeding or juvenile plumages |
Northern Red Bishop | Euplectes franciscanus | Well over 150 in several large flocks in dry bush up country |
Exclamatory Paradise Whydah | Vidua interjecta | Eleven noted around Georgetown and Bansang - most were superb males with long tail feathers |
Pin-tailed Whydah | Vidua macroura | Five eclipse plumaged birds at Tanji |
Village Indigobird | Vidua chalybeata | About 10 eclipse plumaged birds at Bamakuno, and a cracking male further along the road to Tendaba |
Bronze Mannikin | Spermestes cucullata | An abundant species, especially near cultivation and hotels |
Lavender Waxbill | Glaucestrilda caerulescens | Many birders were having trouble seeing this species, or at least seeing it well, but again the Senegambia Hotel gardens came to the rescue! The species is frequent there, and again the best spots are around leaky taps. Up to 20 present daily there, and a few at other sites |
Orange-cheeked Waxbill | Estrilda melpoda | About 10 at Abuko on one visit, and a similar number at Tanji |
Black-rumped Waxbill | Estrilda troglodytes | Five at Bamakuno Forest and 10 at Tendaba airfield |
Quailfinch | Ortygospiza atricollis | Two on a dry bank at Pirang shrimp farm |
Cut-throat Finch | Amadina fasciata | Two at water holes near Georgetown, and a further 2 at Bansang sand quarry |
Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu | Uraeginthus bengalus | Seen almost daily in fair numbers, and common around the hotel area |
[Western Bluebill] | Spermophaga haematina | [Heard twice at Abuko, but sadly not seen] |
Red-billed Firefinch | Lagonosticta senegala | A common species, seen daily in good numbers. Often exceedingly tame, but photographers please note - the bird is so small that you need to get very close even with a long lens! |
Sahel Bush Sparrow | Gymnoris dentata | Fifteen noted at various dry sites up country |
Northern Grey-headed Sparrow | Passer griseus | Up to 20 noted daily |
Sudan Golden Sparrow | Passer luteus | Two males and a female at a water hole near Georgetown. This is a difficult and erratic species, which never seems to be found in large numbers, and is often missed |
House Sparrow | Passer domesticus | Common but never abundant around habitation |
Western Yellow Wagtail | Motacilla flava | About 36 seen and others heard at a variety of wet sites. All those seen well appeared to be of the Blue-headed form flava |
White Wagtail | Motacilla alba | Nine recorded at various sites |
Plain-backed Pipit | Anthus leucophrys | One at Pirang and three at Tendaba |
White-rumped Seedeater | Crithagra leucopygia | Two at Tendaba airfield |
Yellow-fronted Canary | Crithagra mozambica | A total of 15 noted at Bamakuno Forest, Tendaba and Yundum |
Cinnamon-breasted Bunting | Emberiza tahapisi | Two at a water hole near Georgetown, and another at Bansang sand quarry |
Species reported by others: |
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African Green Pigeon |
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African Finfoot |
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Egyptian Plover |
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White-fronted Plover |
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Marsh Sandpiper |
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Spotted Redshank |
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Temminck's Courser |
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White-winged Tern |
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Pearl-spotted Owlet |
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Short-toed Snake Eagle |
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Long-crested Eagle |
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Brown-necked Parrot |
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Winding Cisticola |
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Short-winged Cisticola |
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Willow Warbler |
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Common Whitethroat |
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Copper Sunbird |
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Heuglin's Masked Weaver |
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