Peru, July-August 2003

4th August - arrival in São Paulo, Ubatuba

5th August - Ubatuba, Itatiaia NP

6th August - Itatiaia NP

7th August - Itatiaia NP, Campos do Jordao

8th August - transport to Cuiabá

9th August - northern Pantanal of Pocone, Pixaim River

10th August - Pixaim River, Jaguar Ecological Reserve

11th August - Jaguar Ecological Reserve, Campos do Jofre

12th August - Jaguar Ecological Reserve, Pixaim River

13th August - Pixaim River, Cuiabá, Chapada dos Guimaraes

14th August - Chapada dos Guimaraes NP, Veu de Novia waterfall

15th August - Chapada dos Guimaraes NP, Coxipo d'Ouro, Cuiabá

16th August - (by air) to Alta Floresta, then to Cristalino Jungle Lodge

17th August - Cristalino Jungle Lodge

18th August - Cristalino Jungle Lodge, transport to Alta Floresta

19th August - Cristalino Jungle Lodge

20th August - Cristalino Jungle Lodge

21st August - Alta Floresta, transport to Cuiabá

22nd August - Serra das Araras

23rd August - Serra das Araras

24th August - Serra das Araras, transport to Cuiabá

25th August - transport to São Paulo and London

Day 1 - 4th August

We arrived at São Paulo pretty much on time, at about 0600, and it took only an hour or so to negotiate passport control and baggage reclaim. And there was Edson Endrigo at the arrivals barrier, full of beans and ready to go. Rarely have we been birding so quickly after landing! It was straight into his car, and off onto the largely deserted freeways (it was a Sunday) towards our first destination, Ubatuba. It was a little frustrating to see lots of lifers from a speeding car - but we could only trust Edson's assertions that these were common species we'd see up country next week anyway. Campo Flicker, White-tailed Kite, Crested Caracara - even Whistling Heron and (when Simon dropped off for a moment) Least Grebe....more of that one later!

By mid-morning, we were dropping down the escarpment of the Serra do Mar towards the sea and Ubatuba. The forests here are among the most threatened in South America - the higher altitude forests around here are better protected and less accessible, but the low level areas are already largely blitzed by agriculture and growing towns. Much of the forest is secondary and lower quality than the primary forests uphill, but (so far) most of the species have clung on - and Edson knows where to look! We started at Fazenda Angelim, an area of mixed primary and secondary forest - what a confusing first hour. Edson was calling birds we'd never even heard of within minutes - when the first bird after the gate is called as "Sao Paulo Bristle Tyrant", you know you're in an Endemic Bird Area! Edson was very energetic in his pursuit of top birds for us - within an hour or two, we had scored with really special birds such as Rufous-capped Antthrush, Spot-backed Antshrike, Black Hawk-eagle overhead, Hangnest and the very rare Fork-tailed Tody-tyrants, Squamate Antbird (a recent split from White-bibbed), White-shouldered Fire-eye, and a multitude of tyrants and tanagers, the latter including Flame-crested, Red-necked, Olive-green and Fawn-breasted, Trilling Gnatwren and several hummer species. We heard a Sharpbill calling, but only got hopeless flight views of it departing, unfortunately. In all, overwhelming, and not a little daunting for Day 1!

It was time for a lunch injection - albeit a late one - in a churrascaria on the Ubatuba seafront. As vegetarians, we were a bit nervous of these "eat all the meat you can think of” affairs, but fortunately they all turned out to have superb salad bars too! It was a bit hard to focus on food, given extreme exhaustion and too many good birds, not to mention a Kelp Gull drifting past - although it was the only gull of the entire trip. After checking in to our clean and comfortable little hotel, we were off again, via a couple of flyover Magnificent Frigatebirds (actually, how many people see them perched anyway?!?), this time to the Folia Seca trail. We were getting our second wind (of sorts), and were ready for new species - and we got them very quickly! Edson tape-lured a Slaty Bristlefront (our first tapaculo) to within feet of the trail, White-bearded, Pin-tailed and Blue Manakins were displaying by the track, White-throated Woodcreeper emerged briefly, and Julia got onto a single Riverbank Warbler. Julia was desperate to see a motmot (any motmot!), and we succeeded with two Rufous-capped in the fading light. Not so the Least Pygmy-owl that was calling from just a few feet away - we couldn't see it.

What a fantastic first day - well over 100 species, and we were hardly off the plane! Pizza by the roadside and log-call, then we crawled gratefully into bed and slept like babies.

Day 2 - 5th August

Up and active at 0600, and straight off to Fazenda Capricorn, which just about straddles the Tropic. It was murky and misty again to begin with today, but that did mean it was a lot cooler than we had feared. Masses of birds once more at this tiny patch of forest, cared for by a local carpenter. The feeders at his house alone produced our first Blue Dacnis, Green-headed Tanager and hummer concentrations, including such wonders as Festive Coquette, Violet-capped Woodnymph, Sombre Hummingbird and Saw-billed Hermit. We enticed a White-tailed Trogon out into full view over our heads, a Lineated Woodpecker did its stuff in a huge Cecropia tree and Streak-capped Antwrens showed well by the road. Our first Southern Yellowthroats shared a marshy thicket with Yellow-lored Tody-tyrant, Creamy-bellied Thrush and Brazilian Tanagers - unbelievably intense red. Other tanagers included Golden-chevroned and Ruby-crowned. After enjoying these fabulous birds, we drove up through the mist to the sunlit uplands, and a little way north-east to Itatiaia National Park. Our only significant stops en route were for two sets of displaying Streamer-tailed Tyrants (incredibly showy and noisy!), White-tailed Hawk, and a little marsh where Band-tailed Hornero was guaranteed, along with Masked Water-tyrant and our first spinetails: Yellow-chinned. We blinkered ourselves to various birds glimpsed from the car on the way up the access road into INP, and waited until we were checked in at the sprawling, comfortable Hotel Simon before we started birding properly.

The gardens were full of birds, especially around Mr. Simon's garden feeders - where to begin? Saw-billed Hermit, Black Jacobin, Versicolored Emerald, Brazilian Ruby and many Bananaquits vied for space with Magpie Tanagers, Olive-green Tanagers, Chestnut-bellied Euphonias, Yellow-fronted Woodpeckers and various caciques, sparrows and cowbirds. Many photographs and two hours later, it was time to take a walk with Edson up the Tres Picos trail, starting just behind the large outdoor swimming pool. As usual in tropical forests, the birds came in fits and starts, but the quality was exceptional. Black-throated Trogon appeared within just a few minutes, calling enthusiastically. White-bibbed Antbirds showed in bamboo by the track, generously displaying all relevant fieldmarks that have led to the split from Squamate Antbird, along with a couple of Bertoni's Antbirds. A White-collared Foliage-gleaner represented a whole new group for us, and Saffron and Spot-billed Toucanets provided the colour. White-throated Hummingbird was new too, as were Velvety Black Tyrant, Plumbeous Pigeon and Blue-naped Chlorophonia. Pride of place probably goes to the very local and difficult Black-capped Piprites - no problem for Edson and his tape player - although Star-throated Antwren and (for Julia only) Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper must come a close second! Exhausted, we celebrated Edson's birthday with cake to top off a massive meal at the excellent Hotel Simon restaurant.

Day 3 - 6th August

A large accountancy firm had hired almost all the hotel for a conference during our stay - how these people worked all day and then partied until 4am defeats me. But not a great night's sleep…. Never mind! From our breakfast table at 0600 we could watch Red-breasted Toucan, Black Jacobin and many more, plus a brief view of a Cavy disappearing into a flower-bed!

With only a couple of stops for local goodies like Uniform Finch, (brief) Slaty-breasted Wood Rail, Grey-hooded Attila and many Dusky-legged Guans around a well stocked bird-feeder, we headed downhill, west, and back uphill toward the well-known Aguilias Negras road, heading for higher altitude species.

Just a few yards from the car, we scored with crippling views of Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper (got that one back quickly!), Large-tailed Antshrike, Rufous-backed Antvireo, the incredible Diademed Tanager, Thick-billed Saltator, Brassy-breasted Tanager and Buff-throated Warbling Finch. A Scaly-throated Hermit caught our attention, but then a much smaller hummer flew by and perched up - Green-crowned Plovercrest! Unbelievable bird. We pushed on up the hill on foot, stopping frequently for such special birds as Serra do Mar Bristle Tyrant, Shear-tailed Tyrant, Mouse-coloured Tapaculo and Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner. At our highest point on the walk (still only 500m or so from the car), a very high-pitched, haunting whistle announced the presence of a top endemic super-bird - Black-and-gold Cotinga. It took a while, but eventually we had good flight views of one crossing the track - incredibly elusive for such a striking bird!

The descent produced still more good birds - Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet, Golden-crowned Warbler, Rufous-capped Greenlet and so on - but a rather unsettling prospect faced us back at the car - four armed police with revolvers and shotguns drawn. Er….we smiled a bit and looked at the ground a lot as Edson tried to find out the problem. The story went (apparently) that 'vagabonds' were making this trail a very dangerous one to visit - murdering a car's occupants, stealing the car's contents, and throwing the car over the edge. Edson (privately) doubted it - he'd never heard such a story on this trail or anywhere nearby. The short-term problem was that they thought we might be the 'vagabonds', and had called for a tow-truck to take away Edson's car. He didn't have his official papers with him…. Much negotiation and showing of bird photos, and many daft grins from the mad English tourists later, the tow-truck got called off, and we were allowed to continue, but it was pretty clear that we wouldn't be allowed to continue up the road. Bang went any chance of Itatiaia Spinetail or Pampa Finch - but firearms tend to speak volumes in such cases!

Slightly disappointed, but relieved, we headed back downhill, stopping off in an area of farmland for our first puffbirds (two White-eared - very noisy), Sooty Tyrannulet and Black-capped Donacobius, followed by a cracking Aplomado Falcon at the 'Hornero swamp'. On returning to the Hotel Simon area, we had good success in the forests by the road - many more tanagers, Sibilant Sirystes, a much better view of Rufous-capped Motmot, Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner, and several new flycatchers. The feeders down the hill finally surrendered the much-desired Black-eared Fairy hummer.

Lunch was marked by the ONLY rain of the entire trip - two hours of lashing, cold, violent, squally, cold front rain, battering the banana trees and sending everything flying for cover, including a large squadron of White-collared Swift jet-fighters. We took our scheduled siesta - and awoke to bright, fresh air - perfect timing! The plan for the afternoon was to explore the area around the Donati lodge area, again just a few hundred metres from the hotel. Edson was delighted that we managed to connect with several very scarce species - he tape-lured a pair of gorgeous White-bearded Antshrikes, and coaxed a Robust Woodpecker really close with playback of its gunshot-like drum. A Brown Tanager teased us for a good ten minutes before giving really good views - a subtle bird, clearly the 'evil twin' of certain foliage-gleaners! Down the hill behind the swimming pool, we could hear a Variegated Ant-pitta calling, but it simply refused to approach - a Rufous Gnateater and a White-bibbed Antbird had to do! The evening was closing in, and it was time to try for nightbirds. Edson tried one site near the main hotel pool for Tawny-browed Owl - no reply. Then we tried 50 metres downhill from the gate - and instant success! The owl showed really well right above us for several minutes, apparently quite unconcerned. A good finish to a strange day!

Day 4 - 7th August

We had just a few target species to 'mop up' at Itatiaia, so it was back down to Donati after an early breakfast. With only a little effort, Edson called in a superb Black-billed Scythebill - how does that bill work?! We had only heard Black-throated Saltator yesterday - but today a showy bird was less reclusive, in the same patch of woodland behind the chapel as Euler's Flycatcher, Black-capped Foliage-gleaner and Greenish Schiffornis. But it was soon time to travel, on to Campos do Jordao, where the promise of subtly different species in very different habitat awaited us.

It was a fairly long drive, but essentially in the right direction towards São Paulo. Campos is a smart and fast-growing 'alpine' resort for well-to-do Paulistas - it is a bit like a Polish Blackpool, only hotter..... We arrived pretty much in the heat of the day. Birding was therefore slow to begin with, but a pretty much instant red-morph Surucua Trogon got us off to a good start, followed by Blue-naped Chlorophonia and the very special bird of this area, Araucaria Tit-spinetail, a species strictly associated with the weird flat-topped conifers of these hills. A trip to a high look-out point across to a huge granite exfoliation dome was well worthwhile - and not only for the view. Two Hellmayr's Pipits showed well and displayed in full Meadow Pipit fashion over the grassland, and some distant Curl-crested Jays were new.

Now pretty hot, we descended and had refreshments (including ice-cream) by a fish farm in the valley - few birds here. We stopped here and there on the way into the National Park proper, nailing several new species such as Plush-crested Jay and the endangered Vinaceous-breasted Amazon, before climbing up into the hills, above the valley forests. We could hear Black-and-gold Cotingas calling (but could not find one to look at!). As the sun began to set, Edson was well-pleased to find a Lesser Grass Finch close to a favourite site he'd had for them that had been burned a year or two back. It was even better when a Wedge-tailed Grass Finch decided to show up alongside it!

The final act of the day turned out to be the best, and rates among the best of the entire trip. We sat hopefully at a bend in the road watching for nightjars - nothing, and it had got virtually dark. A dip? On down the road, a Rusty-barred Owl tape elicited no response - and the car seemed to have broken down. A disaster? A farmer rolled up in a 4x4, offering at best to escort us down (if we got started), and at worst a tow - great! But even then, something flew past in the gloaming. “There!” someone shouted, and Edson's beam picked out, for perhaps five glorious seconds, the finest nightjar we have ever seen - a full adult male Long-trained Nightjar, its tail feathers making up well over half its total length, seeming to float along behind as it flew. Then fireflies started zipping about the trees, adding a magical touch - and at once, a gruff booming signalled the arrival of the Rusty-barred Owl! Outrageous stuff. Again, Edson's torch did the trick, and we got simply crippling views of a really handsome bird.

Now it really was time to go - a three hour drive on good roads saw us back in central São Paulo by 2230. A very comfortable hotel in (to the casual visitor) a very alarming and intimidating city.

Edson had been brilliant - it was a real shame to have to say goodbye after just four days - but what success. We had already seen well over 200 species, many of them endemics, and our Brasilian adventure was off to a great start.

Day 5 - 8th August

Edson's younger brother Lamir picked us up in his cab as planned at 0630, and delivered us without incident to GRU airport. We had plenty of time before our flight to Cuiabá, which left later in the morning. An entirely uneventful flight via Goiania saw us landing in the capital of Mato Grosso state at around lunchtime, having gained another hour by crossing a time zone. Hot! Very hot! 35 degrees plus.

Braulio Carlos was waiting for us as planned at the gate, and we were quickly installed in the Hotel Diplomata, just a few hundred metres from the airport. Today was a non-birding day, so it was MTV, air-con, snack food, cool drinks and postcards until an early night and much sleep recovery!

Day 6 - 9th August

Braulio picked us up in a spacious Mercedes minibus with his driver, Ze. Plenty of room for us, all our kit, and the four Danish people we were picking up. They had arrived late the night before, and were lodged right in downtown in a small hotel - we picked them up around 0730 : Joergen and his wife Rhea (American by birth), Joergen's brother Poul, and their friend Robin. All aboard, and off towards the Pantanal - via our long-awaited and very first Burrowing Owls!

We stopped for a break at Pocone, and shortly afterwards, the road downgraded to a gravel track, the famed Transpantaneira Highway. It is wide and well-graded until well into the swamps, but then narrows significantly, and crosses numerous quite rickety-looking wooden bridges - hairy, but OK if you keep birding and leave the driving to the driver!

Our first stop by a few pools produced several species we'd soon become familiar with - Rufescent Tiger Heron, Green Ibis, Southern Screamer, Guira Cuckoo, Amazon Kingfisher, Black-collared and Savanna Hawks, Limpkin, Striated Heron, Vermilion Flycatcher and Whistling Heron, plus a few goodies such as Toco Toucan, Saffron-billed Sparrow, Red Pileated Finch, Barred Antshrike, Pearly-vented Tody-tyrant and Narrow-billed Woodcreeper.

Simon picked out a couple of blobs moving about among some cows, and some serious 'scope work in the heat haze revealed three Red-legged Seriemas - not quite the views we'd hoped for, but a tricky bird seen early on! Other large blobs in fields turned out to be variously termite mounds, Capybaras and Greater Rheas!

Further down the road, some fabulous concentrations of waterbirds awaited us. Jostling for position among swarms of Spectacled Caimans were American Wood Storks, huge Jabirus, a very few Maguari Storks, Great and Snowy Egrets, Capped and Black-crowned Night Herons, a few Roseate Spoonbills, several ibis species, Wattled Jacanas and Grey-cowled Wood Rails. All these were common throughout our stay in the Pantanal. Other species around these pools included the very charismatic Large-billed Tern, White-throated Kingbird, Bluish-grey Saltator, Great Black Hawk, many Snail Kites, Rufous-collared Seedeater, Long-tailed Ground-dove and various other new passerines. Big shout - HYACINTH MACAW! Two flying birds provided our much-anticipated first look at the Pantanal's flagship bird. Immense, lazily-flapping cobalt blue parrots - incredible.

As we approached our lodge at Santa Teresa, on the Pixaim River, we saw two Marsh Deer (one grievously wounded by antlers in a rutting incident), and a Grey Brocket Deer too.

Lunch was deeply welcome, as was our clean, air-conditioned room! It was hard to stop birding, but we needed a break, and tore ourselves away from the Yellow-billed Cardinals, Saffron Finches, Giant and Greyish Baywings and Purplish Jays on the feeders for an hour or two.

After a bit of much-needed laundry (clothes drying in about three minutes in the dry, 35deg+ heat) and a chat with the pet toucans and Peccary (quickly nicknamed 'Gregory' - think about it), it was off on a boat trip on the river. I've done a few tropical creek expeditions, but this was just about the best. The river was thick with birds - Anhingas, Neotropic Cormorants, egrets, various herons (including many Boat-billed) and Spectacled Caimans and Capybara too. Our first Chestnut-eared Aracaris flew over, and Rusty-backed Spinetail and Rusty-margined Flycatcher were new too. Within just a hundred metres of the lodge, we found a Sungrebe swimming in the shade of the bank - an elusive and highly desirable bird! Braulio quickly heard a Helmeted Manakin calling in the bushes nearby, and a bit of coaxing resulted in great views. A pair of White-wedged Piculets mobbed a Ferruginous Pygmy-owl, and Pale-legged Horneros patrolled the muddy banks.

As dusk fell, we completed the 'kingfisher full house' - Ringed, Amazon, Green-and-rufous, Green and the tricky American Pygmy, and Turquoise-fronted Amazons flew to roost. In the fading light, Braulio spotted movement under a sprawling bush - Agami Heron! This is a very easy bird to miss, and was our only sniff at the species. Fantastic stuff - topped only by a great display of Pauraques and Band-tailed Nighthawks at dusk, and the landing stage collapsing under Poul and Robin at the lodge! A brilliant day in the famous Pantanal.

Day 7 - 10th August

Our early walk today was in the dry gallery forest alongside the river - in the wet season, much of it is swamp! The passerine list grew rapidly - selected (!) highlights included Little, Golden-green and Pale-crested Woodpeckers, Thrush-like, Moustached and Buff-breasted Wrens, Rufous-fronted and Greater Thornbirds, Green-backed Becard, Tawny-crowned Pygmy-tyrant, Rusty-fronted Tody-flycatcher, Stripe-necked Tody-tyrant (you can see why we were getting confused!), Planalto Slaty and Great Antshrikes, Band-tailed and Mato Grosso Antbirds, Rusty-backed and Large-billed Antwrens, Rufous Casiornis, Hooded Tanager, Flavescent Warbler and Ashy-headed Greenlet. Julia even found a small snake to frighten herself with. Great birding. Several Capuchin Monkeys, some Black-hooded (or Nanday) Parakeets and a Bicolored Hawk finished off a good walk.

After lunch, it was time to drive south towards Porto Jofre, and the Jaguar Ecological Reserve. The journey provided a few new birds, such as (the much-wanted) Long-winged Harrier, plus Solitary Sandpiper, Scarlet-headed Blackbird, White-tailed Goldenthroat, Bare-faced Curassow and White Woodpecker. But the parrot count was now rising too - Monk, Peach-fronted and Yellow-chevroned Parakeets and Golden-collared Macaw were in evidence, and numerous Hyacinth Macaws were flying around as we neared the lodge. We arrived just prior to dusk - just in time to see huge numbers of waterbirds flying to roost - we counted 500 Great Egrets in several loose flocks in just three or four minutes - and they kept coming! The Hyacinth Macaws, with only Rufous Horneros as serious rivals, made it a noisy and exciting end to the day.

End? No way - not with Braulio around! We headed out again after dark with flashlight and tape player, in search of nightbirds. Big success! Braulio is a god at dazzling and catching nightjars - we had close-up views of Pauraque, Scissor-tailed and Rufous Nightjars in this way. Another big target in the Pantanal is mammals, of course - but we never dreamt that the first one we'd see on the road would be a Brazilian Tapir! A great surprise. We finished up with brief views of Tropical Screech-owl, a flyover Barn Owl, and amazing views of the night sky in the moonless, utterly dark night, lit only by the occasional Perseid meteor.

Day 8 - 11th August

It was birding from the road for the most part today, but thankfully on foot - we'd been doing rather too much trailing about in the bus with brief stops for our liking! The dry woodland along the spur road west from the Transpantaneira was highly productive, with new species such as Blue-crowned Trogon, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Great Rufous and Buff-throated Woodcreeper, Fawn-breasted Wren (essentially identical to Buff-breasted Wren in the field, but with a wholly different voice), Crimson-crested Woodpecker, Little Cuckoo and Chestnut-bellied Guan. At least one Bat Falcon showed extremely well, perched up, and an Undulated Tinamou crossed the road, as did several Bare-faced Curassows and an Azara's Agouti.

Exploration of an excellent area of mature palms produced Streaked Flycatcher and various parrots, including the fabulous and sobering sight of over 1% of all the world's Hyacinth Macaws in a single tree....

After lunch and siesta, it was time to explore the open areas of grassland and swamp to the south of the Jaguar Ecological Reserve, around Campo Jofre. The bridges got worse and worse, but the birds alleviated any concerns. We saw few ducks in Brasil, and most in the Pantanal - Muscovy, White-faced and Black-bellied Whistling Ducks, and Brazilian Teal were all here. A Striped Cuckoo finally showed well in roadside vegetation (after many 'heard only' birds), a few Maguari Storks wandered about among the cattle and Capybaras, and a few choice passerines turned up too - Chotoy and Cinereous-breasted Spinetails, and White-browed Blackbird. A single Little Blue Heron flew over with other herons to roost. The weirdest sight here was of scores of what looked like cowpats waking up and flying off as dusk fell - Nacunda Nighthawks! At one point well over 50 flew over in loose formation - in all there must have been hundreds of them.

In the gloaming and the evil mosquito haze, we played Jaguar tapes into the vastness of the Pantanal night - but there was sadly no response. The drive home produced at least two Great Horned Owls, several nightjars, and best of all a Crab-eating Fox by the road. A late finish.

Day 9 - 12th August

Another morning outing to the spur road produced several new species, such as Red-billed Scythebill (just as amazing as the Black-billed species), Red-throated Piping-guan, Black-crowned Tityra and a wonderful pair of Laughing Falcons, which showed brilliantly by the road. After a late breakfast, it was time to drive back up the road to the Pixaim River. Finally, after much peering at shady riverbanks, we saw our first, much-anticipated Sunbitterns. Every bit as fantastic as we'd expected. A weird hybrid of heron and crake, with a bit of wader thrown in! In the heat of the day, raptors were getting up, and another adult male Long-winged Harrier over the road vied with a brief Crane Hawk for 'raptor of the day' award. Not forgetting those Laughing Falcons, of course….

Our afternoon trip was another boat excursion, this time upstream along the much-meandering river - only about three kilometres as the Jabiru flies, but much longer on the water! Far fewer waterbirds this way, but Joergen did turn up our first Red-crested Cardinal, and there was plenty to keep us entertained as we travelled, including more Sunbitterns. The target species, however, was non-avian, and a bit of patience and a few whistles in a sluggish bend of the river soon turned up the fabulous Giant River Otters. At least three showed very well within yards of the boat, feeding on choice piranha (crunching the bones enthusiastically) and cavorting about in the shallows. Hardly attractive animals as such (resembling Winston Churchill), but mighty impressive and really exciting!

The trip back provided another unexpected highlight. Braulio had heard a Zigzag Heron, well out of known range, calling from riverside bushes in this area some months before, and we pulled the boat up to try a tape in the same spot. We hardly expected success - surely his bird had been a vagrant wanderer from the known range of the upper Amazon basin. Indeed, several minutes passed without response, and as the light faded and the mozzies started biting, we began to give up. But then something called back! (Actually, only Julia heard it!) We manoeuvred the boat right into the bush, and finally, after much peering and spotlighting, Braulio located not one but two Zigzag Herons - and they were recently fledged juveniles! Not just a life tick (and a hard bird anywhere), but also an ornithologically significant range extension of the 'least known heron species' (HBW). Fabulous!

Tired and bitten to death, we got home in the dark. Our travelling companions even managed to get out of the boat without the landing stage sinking, as it had done last time!

Day 10 - 13th August

Possibly our earliest morning of the lot - out in the field at 5.30 (dark) looking for nightjars in the fields by the lodge. We did see Spot-winged Nightjar - but only briefly! The dawn soon broke, revealing a family party of Great Horned Owls in large trees by the gate, and we spent a good couple of hours working the ditches and bushes near there - Chotoy and Yellow-chinned Spinetails, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, White-rumped Monjita, plus more White Woodpeckers and various commoner passerines. Another Crab-eating Fox was a bonus.

The journey back north towards Cuiabá was notable mostly for its mammals - a single (old male?) Coati by the road, a Neotropical River Otter in a slough on the other side, plus Marsh and Grey Brocket Deer. More Sunbitterns too!

It was time to say goodbye to the Pantanal - we knew we had only scratched the surface of this huge area! What must it be like in the wet season, with billions of mozzies and huge floods over much of the landscape? Another time….

We got back to Cuiabá about lunchtime, and appropriately ate a huge lunch in a diner near the airport. Once we were again stuffed to the gills, we headed northeast for the 60+km drive to Chapada dos Guimaraes. En route, we stopped off in our first patch of hot, dry, very dusty cerrado, seeing new species such as Biscutate Swift, Campos Flycatcher (noting its call and structure ready for tomorrow….) and Crowned Slaty Flycatcher.

The road slowly climbed uphill, and then hugged the red sandstone escarpment up to the plateau. A truckstop on the way provided a chance to see our first Red-and-green Macaws, but it remained just a bit too hot. Finally, it got cooler as we approached a wonderful viewpoint over the plains below - the geodetic centre of the continent, marked by a feeble three inch high concrete trig point! Birds were a bit thin on the ground, sadly, but included Grey Monjita, Bat Falcon, some distant Dusky Swifts, Grassland Sparrow and (in a patch of dense woodland) Southern Antpipit, seen and heard well.

It had been mostly a travel day - it was good to check into the (rather holiday camp-like) hotel, cool off, and go for a huge meal in the town. We clocked the Burrowing Owls by the gate as we went in - a good photo opportunity to be had tomorrow!

Day 11 - 14th August

Up early and after a light breakfast, off into the cerrado proper in the National Park, just a few minutes from the hotel. Very special birds, very quickly! White-rumped and White-banded Tanagers, Black-throated Saltator, Rufous-winged Antshrike, Plumbeous Seedeater, White-eared Puffbird and Curl-crested Jay were all quite easy, though unfortunately only Simon got onto a Coal-crested Finch. A White-vented Violetear attending some bright yellow flowers was quickly trumped by a superb male Horned Sungem - another made-up hummer name! Chapada Flycatchers repaid yesterday's study of Campos Fly by calling and looking different - a recent split understood! Red-legged Seriemas called madly around us - but didn't show! A Chequered Woodpecker drummed, called and showed off on a spindly tree near the dusty main track. We tried and failed for Rufous-sided Pygmy-tyrant at Braulio's favourite spot….

But our most-wanted target bird still eluded us. We could hear it calling - like a Scops Owl on amphetamine. Braulio loaded the tape, explained that the bird came fast and low, and hit play. Within seconds, incredibly, the bird was at our feet, its approach unseen, calling like a maniac - and then it showed! Collared Crescentchest - another amazing tapaculo. What a blinding bird. Well worth all the thorn scrub, dust and heat!

We moved on to the Cidade de Pedra rock formations, and enjoyed the spectacular view over the cliffs, also enjoying the cooling breeze. A Yellow-billed Blue Finch was among the few birds around. A few Rheas and a Pampas Deer enlivened the ride back to the road, but it was once again hot, and time for a cooling swim (and in Simon's case, waterslide) and siesta. Julia, by now, had contracted a rather nasty cold and was suffering a bit…but she battled on gamely, as indeed she did through the whole of the rest of the trip! Brave soldier….

Lunch! An hour to forget birds - no chance! Without our bins, Simon proceeded to shout Swallow-tailed Kite over the distant houses of the town - oh dear! Luckily, Braulio's scope was in the van, and good views were had of one of the big target birds for the trip.

Some Yellow-tufted Woodpeckers, Violaceous Euphonias and Swallow Tanagers served as the prelude to a drive down to another patch of dry woodland - Spot-backed Puffbird was the highlight, but we also caught up with White-bellied Warbler, Scaled Pigeon and Blue-winged Macaw, before heading on to the Veu de Novia waterfall for dusk. A lovely, thin waterfall plunged over the sandstone cliffs into the lush gorge below, as toucans, parrots, macaws and swifts vied for attention in the trees and sky above. A wonderful way to finish the day.

Day 12 - 15th August

This morning, we were determined to nail that pesky Rufous-sided Pygmy Tyrant - so it was back to the cerrado area at first light - and it was calling! It took a good half hour, but eventually, Braulio's persistence paid off - good views of a globally threatened species. Not hugely exciting aesthetically…but not to be passed up! We left before it was warm enough for many other birds to get going - just an Aplomado Falcon, and Small-billed Tinamous and Rheas calling in the distance.

Next, it was down the hill to Portao da Fe, a small patch of remnant forest. At first, it was depressingly quiet - just a few tyrannulets and a couple of Pale-crested Woodpeckers. To be honest, it was dull for well over an hour. Joergen and the others gave up and went home, but we persisted, desperately trying to remind ourselves that tropical forests could be like this - very patchy in time and space! Still nothing. Poor views of a new hermit. Yet another antshrike (Planalto Slaty). Yawn. Dull. Let's try mimicking an owl…

MAYHEM! The first bird was (probably) a responding Ferruginous Pygmy-owl, closely followed by the most fabulous hour's birding of the trip. An incredible 34 species of passerine and near-passerine mobbed the owl as it desperately tried to be inconspicuous. To see mixed flocks comprised of Squirrel Cuckoo, Fiery-capped Manakin, Dot-eared Coquette, Glittering-bellied Emerald, Amethyst Woodstar, Fork-tailed Woodnymph, White-winged Becard, three species of euphonias, seven species of tanagers, White-wedged Piculet, Chestnut-vented Conebill, Rufous Casiornis, Moustached Wren, Pale-breasted Thrush and Bran-colored Flycatcher, and so many more, was unbelievable. As Braulio said - Christmas tree birding!

Even when the mobbing finally died down, we were still rewarded with a weird-looking Pheasant Cuckoo calling and finally showing well by the track, more Blue-crowned Motmots and Blue-crowned Trogons, and Sepia-capped Flycatcher. Flushed with success, we returned to the hotel for a well-earned siesta! Only a few more Swallow-tailed Kites could disturb our postcard writing….

In the afternoon, it was time to get moving towards Cuiabá once more, but via the small town of Coxipo d'Ouro. Near there, Braulio had a couple of top sites, first for Pale-bellied Tyrant-manakin (resembling a mourner - subtle and interesting), then for Red-shouldered and Red-bellied Macaws. Black-tailed Marmosets enlivened the former site too.

As dusk fell we left the plateau behind - the seasonal fires, no doubt at least mildly enhanced by deliberate fire-setting, pumping smoke into the afternoon sky.

And so back to Cuiabá, goodbye to Ze, and another night in the Hotel Diplomata - unfortunately right above the noisy laundry. Much verbal severity in pidgin-Portuguese later, and things quietened down in time for an early night.

Day 13 - 16th August

The start of phase IV - the trek to the Amazon basin! It was a slow start, since our flight wasn't until 1130, but we were all in place and eager when Braulio arrived at the airport with our tickets. He had managed to walk off with both sets of keys from his apartment, so he had to rush back home to drop them off, before returning to join us - he got stuck in bad traffic, and only made it with 10 minutes to go. Close!

The 30-seater plane was noisy and bumpy - lots of thermals and stomach-churning. No-one vomited, but I felt a bit queasy. We stopped off briefly in Sinop on the c. two hour journey. On arrival in Alta Floresta (hot!), we transferred to the Floresta Amazonica hotel for lunch (it's run by the same people as the Cristalino Jungle Lodge), and then once things cooled down a bit, headed north in a big van towards the Teles Pires River crossing. Stops en route turned up a few good birds (including our only Common Gallinules, Scarlet Macaw and Sulphury Flycatcher, but we only heard Point-tailed Palmcreeper at the regular spot…), but it was depressing to travel through so much utterly devastated land. Cattle everywhere, grazing on introduced African grasses, where only a decade earlier had been virgin rainforest. A haunted place.

But the river raised our spirits - here we were, some 1500 miles from the Amazon's mouth, and this small tributary was already wider than the Thames in London! And on the far bank was dense, lush jungle. Into the boats as dusk fell, and off across the river, quickly turning off up the Cristalino River. Braulio even managed to find us Blackish Nightjar and Great Potoo by torchlight before we got to the Lodge, about 20 minutes later. This was like something out of Harry Potter - boats in the dark, candlelit landing and porters to carry your bags. Cool!

The noise was deafening - this is what we'll remember most about the forest. Cicadas screaming at ear-splitting frequencies, a thousand different rhythms, a constant, unrelenting hum. Indescribable. Hot meal, bed.

Day 14 - 17th August

Here we go - jungle time! This morning, we walked the Taboca (=bamboo) Trail, a round trip of about 2.8km from the bungalow clearing. We left by 0600, and set off, with many and various stops along the narrow cleared path. The bird list is frightening to review - just some of them here: Grey, Manu and White-browed Antbirds, Pink-throated Becard, Thrush-like Schiffornis, Collared, White- and Black-tailed Trogons, Channel-billed Toucan, Red-necked and Lettered Aracaris, Dark-billed and Black-bellied Cuckoos, Black-girdled Barbet, Blue-naped Jacamar, White-fronted Nunbird, Rose-breasted Chat, Amazonian, Plain- and Spot-winged Antshrikes, Yellow-throated Woodpecker, Snethlage's Tody-tyrant, and even (amazingly) an adult Zigzag Heron running around on tree branches at head height near the river! The birding was certainly hard (Braulio's laser pointer helped), and our necks hurt, but it wasn't too hot under the trees, and the rewards were well worth the effort. We didn't get back until after noon - that works out as about 460m per hour! And an extra bird awaited - a Tataupa Tinamou right by the huts.

Over lunch, we enjoyed the butterflies by the dock and a couple of new species along the riverbank - Swallow-winged Puffbird and the fantastic Paradise Jacamar. At 1530ish, it was time to head for the tower. Gulp!

The (quite new) metal canopy tower is about a 20 minute walk from the Lodge over rocky terrain - quite treacherous, especially in the dark! The footprint of the tower is perhaps three metres square, and it is a sweat-inducing 50 metres tall….. Deep breath, let's go. 20m - no problem - quick breather. 30m - emerge from the canopy, big platform, hang on and try not to panic. Distinct movement to and fro. Plenty of birds to see - Dusky-billed Parrotlet, Green-thighed Parrot, Golden-winged Parakeet, White-throated Toucan, White-necked and Striolated Puffbirds, Bare-necked Fruitcrow, Curl-crested Aracari, Masked Tityra and Long-tailed Tyrant. Braulio and a couple of the others went for it to 50m, but our nerves had got the better of us - we stayed at 30m! But what might they see….?

“Pompadour Cotinga!”, shouted Braulio from 20m above us. “Where?”, we replied in unison. “12 o'clock, but you won't see it from there. Come on up.”

Oh dear. Gingerly, we edged up, one at a time, saw the bird after maybe five metres, then shuffled back down again. Cowards, yes. Dippers, no. In this fashion, we also connected with Red-fanned Parrot (which eventually moved and perched up right in front) and Spangled Cotinga. No worries!

The descent was fair to middling - not as bad as I'd thought. The reward came with Braulio hearing, tape-luring and spotlighting a Tawny-bellied Screech Owl to within 10 feet right by the trail. This is a hard species to find anywhere, we're told.

We were just settling down for a pre-meal drink, when a boat got back from upriver - some Italians had just had crippling views of two black Jaguars by the river. Did we want to go and have a try? Of course! So we ran back and got changed into filthy clothes again, and set off with Braulio and some others. It was great being on the river again, but sadly no amount of tape-playing or patient listening could conjure the cats back to the bank. It had been a long shot anyway!

Tired, rather hot, and deafened by cicadas, we ate, and fell into bed.

Day 15 - 18th August

It was just Julia, Simon and Joergen out this morning, and Braulio was taking us up river to the Haffer Trail. En route, we scored with Razor-billed Curassow, Cream-colored and Chestnut Woodpeckers, and best of all a superb male Crimson Topaz, an unbelievable hummer, right by the river. Even Braulio had never seen a 'proper' male before. A Neotropical River Otter playing on a sandy bank and then swimming about was a precursor to a bigger mammal - our second Brazilian Tapir, which heaved itself out of the river and crashed off into the forest. A brief stop also turned up a Flame-crested Manakin, and White-banded Swallows skimmed over the river.

The Haffer Trail didn't have as many big trees as the Taboca Trail, but the bamboo was even denser in places - there's no such thing as an easy-to-work forest trail! But, again, persistence paid off, and we scored with some really good birds, such as Scaly-backed and Black-faced Antbirds, Chestnut-backed Antshrike, Dot-winged Antwren (it's amazing there are any ants left in these forests…), Bamboo Foliage-gleaner, Slate-colored Grosbeak, Broad-billed Motmot, Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin and Chestnut-throated Spinetail, plus several repeats from the day before. The river ride back turned up new raptors, too - King Vulture and Ornate Hawk-eagle.

We spent the middle of the day around the lodge once more - still marvelling at the scores of different butterflies to be seen. The afternoon trip was again upriver, this time to the Castanheira or Brazil-nut Trail, the highlight of which is a truly immense tree of that species. The trail itself was quite short, and things were rather quiet, but slow walking again turned up goodies - Brown-banded Puffbird, Long-winged Antwren, Long-billed Woodcreeper and a group of incredibly noisy Red-headed Caracaras included. Sunset came all too soon, but did mean that we could again use the flashlight along the river - Common Potoo was the star this time.

Day 16 - 19th August

Today we were to have a long day out in the field, starting with a walk up the granite dome of the Serra Trail. The plan was to get up as high as possible as early as possible, to avoid the worst of the heat and the sweat bees, so we hiked quite hard through the lower forest, stopping only for Warbling Antbird and Black-banded Woodcreeper. Up on the dome, we found ourselves in new habitat - dwarf pineapple and bromeliad scrub, with much dead wood. The birds were different too - Painted Parakeet, Variegated Flycatcher, Masked Tanager, Pied Puffbird, Rufous- and Orange-bellied Euphonias, and Purple Honeycreeper were all new.

A Natterer's Slaty Antshrike (another recent split) competed for attention with Swallow-tailed Kites over the canopy, and it was a real bonus to locate at least two Blackish Nightjars in daylight, sat motionless on the dark granite rock. The temperature began to climb, and we sat still, surveying the forest below, the distant trees (with a certain 50m tower poking out of them), and the all too close tracts of cleared land beyond. Smoke hung in the air. Braulio called in a pair of Gould's Toucanets, which then proceeded to start displaying loudly -the complete set of possible Toucanids!

Back down the hill again, and back into the boat, for the c. two hour trip upstream. En route, our only Black Caracaras of the trip showed well by the river. A quick bit of portage round a very shallow set of rapids also gave us Piratic Flycatcher and Yellow-bellied Dacnis in a cleared farm area. We stopped for lunch tucked under the shade of a river bank (it was now getting really hot), and immediately on getting off the boat, disturbed a small group of Undulated Tinamous, whose calls we'd been hearing for days! Spotted Tody-flycatchers were our other lunchtime companions.

Pushing on upriver, we soon arrived at the first of several slack water 'lakes' just off the main channel. These varzea swamps are the classic habitat for a classic bird - Hoatzin. We soon located one (which gave only poor views), and could hear others puffing and panting in the bushes. They only really showed in flight, but this was still a major target bird seen! Rather better (Simon thought) were the endemic Glossy Antshrikes we saw, plus Greater Ani (at last), Cinnamon Attila, Streaked Antwren and (best of all) a pair of very elusive but eventually excellent Varzea Schiffornises. You can't get much more habitat specific than that!

It was now stinking hot, and we were all relieved to turn the boat around and head slowly for home. It was dusk by the time we reached the Cristalino Lodge. A late night stake out by the salt lick was sadly negative for Tapir, but we did hear various owls (including Crested) calling in the inky forest.

Day 17 - 20th August

Our last day at Cristalino, and once more it was time to get up that tower! Again, we stopped at 30m, but again we didn't miss anything as a result….

Among the first birds were five highly desirable and difficult species Tooth-billed Wren (endemic), Slaty-capped Shrike-vireo, Red-billed Pied Tanager, Yellow-shouldered Grosbeak and Gray-bellied Hawk. Apparently 'no-one' ever sees the latter. Add in Kawall's Amazon, Plain Xenops and Black-eared Fairy, and it's clear that quality made up for the relative paucity of birds. Back down at ground level (thank you!), the birds hotted up once more - Lawrence's Thrush, Fasciated and Cinereous Antshrikes (the latter again after days of hearing it), White-flanked and Long-winged Antwrens, cracking male Red-headed Manakins, Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher, Curve-billed Scythebill (completing our set of Brasilian scythebills), Long-billed Hermit and Rufous-tailed Flatbill. While watching stupendous butterflies by the salt lick, a Musician Wren started singing - an amazing tuneless whistle! And we got great views too. Another group whistled us over to where they had located a small ant swarm (again, at last!) - and sure enough, there were the highly-desired ant followers, Bare-eyed Antbird and Black-spotted Bare-eye. Red-stained Woodpecker and Black-capped Becard rounded off yet another superb morning in the jungle.

After a final lunch and sad farewells to a truly brilliant place to stay, it was time to take to our boats once more for the journey back to civilisation. Acting on some of our Internet gen., I scanned the beaches of the sandy islands in the Teles Pires river - success! A pair of Pied Lapwings, just as predicted! The journey back to Alta Floresta was largely uneventful, with the important exception of a more successful stop at the palms - Point-tailed Palmcreeper within seconds, and apparently nesting, since it disappeared into a palm and never came out! A Yellowish Pipit in the grasslands was a new species for the district, but a sad reminder of the fact that many grassland birds are now common in this area, where they were unknown just a decade ago. It does not pay to dwell too much on the desecration that is happening in places like this. Alta Floresta offered air conditioning, a pool and 'luxury'. Give me a forest and 'basic' accommodation any day.

Day 18 - 21st August

Enough negativity. Out into the field again at dawn. A tiny remnant patch of forest behind the hotel was surprisingly good - Chestnut-tailed Antbird, Plain-winged Antshrike, Dusky-billed Woodcreeper, Blue-crowned Motmot and so on. We finally managed to see an Amazonian Pygmy-owl, and to hear a Barred Forest Falcon. The disappointment of not seeing the latter was much tempered by first hearing and then seeing another Forest Falcon species - the one that has no scientific or English name yet - we even photographed it! (note: it has since been formally described, and named, very suitably, as 'Cryptic Forest Falcon'. Strong-billed and Lineated Woodcreepers ushered us out of the forest, where good numbers of Crimson-bellied Parakeets and Red-bellied Macaws awaited us.

After a lazy late morning and lunch, we caught the early afternoon flight back to Cuiabá (again via Sinop - but less bumpy this time), and said farewell to Joergen, Rhea, Poul and Robin. Ensconced in the Hotel Diplomata for the third time, we did some recuperation, ready for the final extension, starting tomorrow.

Day 19 - 22nd August

Braulio turned up at the hotel at 0700, and we were ready to roll, this time in his smaller and more 'intimate' 4x4 jeep. We were soon heading off to the west, on the c. 120km ride to Serra das Araras, home of the near-mythical Harpy Eagle. En route, we saw a few cerrado species, including Greater Rhea, but we made no stops until we got to our excellent, spa-type lodge, nestled in the valley between two large limestone escarpments. From our lodge's veranda, we could see a large lake and series of pools with trees all around, where the Harpy was reputed to hunt some days, and a not insignificant patch of valley-floor forest to explore. After a quick unpack, and some photography of an obliging pair of Ferruginous Pygmy Owls, we were ready to go once more!

We had a good two hours in the forest before the heat got fierce (and it did at this site) - we used it to good effect, scoring with Grey-headed Tanager, White-flanked Antwren, the diminutive Short-tailed Pygmy Tyrant, Band-tailed Manakin, Spix's Guan, good views of White Woodpecker and White-eyed Attila. Bird of the morning, however, was a Sharpbill, giving great views and more than making up for the flight view only we'd had in Ubatuba. We saw a further two over the next two days - the form that occurs here apparently calls very differently from the coastal type - another split looming? Probably!

Lunch was (as usual) huge and excellent. On foreign trips, especially in the tropics, we normally suffer a bit and lose weight. Not in Brasil. The food was without exception copious and superb.

After 1500, it started to cool off a bit, and it was time to search for the Harpy Eagle at this recent breeding site. At least two were still around, and one had been seen hunting waterfowl at the lake as recently as Monday (today was Thursday). So we scanned all the big trees around the lake, trying not to be distracted by the large flocks of Brazilian Ducks, along with Muscovy Ducks and various other water birds, including Solitary Sandpiper and Green Ibis. No luck. We drove along the main forest track, stopping for various raptors, such as Grey-headed Kite, Gray and Bicoloured Hawks, and finally nailing the Cinnamon-throated Hermit that we'd half seen at Chapada dos Guimaraes. White-tailed and Collared Trogons shared a tree, and Orange-backed Troupials and Orange-headed Amazons lit up the late afternoon. A King Vulture soared over the hilltops, and Braulio was excited when Julia found a new species of Spider-monkey (Black) in some distant trees.

We plunged back into the forest as dusk fell, in search of nightbirds. Braulio quickly conjured up an Ocellated Poorwill, and we could hear others calling around us. Owls were harder to come by, but eventually a tape produced a response, too far away to chase. We persisted, and suddenly a stunning Black-banded Owl flew in over our heads and perched up in a big tree, showing fantastically in the torch beam. It was joined by another, and they began duetting in the gathering darkness. Magical. Good views of Pauraque and Scissor-tailed Nightjar (this one with a 'proper' tail!) finished off the day, and took us home for dinner happy and excited.

Day 20 - 23rd August

Our penultimate day of birding in Brasil. The plan was to work the forest again first thing, then to emerge mid-morning and search for the Harpy again. It is possible to see the Harpy in the forest, often near troops of monkeys, but one's odds are much lower. We worked the trail successfully once more - Cocoa Thrush was new, as were Zimmer's Flatbill, Guira Tanager, Black-throated Antbird and Chivi Vireo. As we crossed a dried up riverbed, we scoured the bed for tracks, but Simon (sadly, only Simon - who was a matter of feet ahead of the others) went one better, coming face to face with an equally startled Ocelot on the side of the track! The cat froze for about three seconds, then vanished in to the forest, never to be seen again. Not quite a Jaguar, but a close second!

An hour searching for the Harpy Eagle again failed - though we were taken to see the nest site of two years ago. On the way, Simon was able to unblock a serious 'one-up' that Julia had had on him for almost three weeks - Least Grebe! A family party of nine were ensconced on a muddy pond by the road. A big bonus was a single Ash-colored Cuckoo in the trees alongside, and Southern Hepatic Tanager and Red-legged Honeycreeper were both new.

Heat struck us down again, and the stone pool at the lodge was very welcome over a long siesta break!

The afternoon trail (via another unsuccessful Harpy scour - can you guess the ending yet?) took us up the hills a little, to a large clearing and tight little ravine. Immediately on getting out of the car, we had a troop of Black Spider-monkeys all around us, with Brown Capuchins in attendance - but sadly no Harpies! The only new bird up the river was Pectoral Sparrow, but by now we were close to saturation point, and had begun to really enjoy the birds and the surroundings here at Serra das Araras. A final look at the lakes produced a migrant wader - a Greater Yellowlegs.

Day 21 - 24th August

A last roll of the dice for the Harpy - no luck! Never mind. The forest continued to turn up new and spectacular species - White-backed Fire-eye (which we'd been hearing for two days), White Hawk, Black-crowned Tityra and Small-billed Tinamou (which turned out to be our 630th and last species!). We had great views of two King Vultures, and nearby found a not very freshly-killed Coati, eaten from the inside out, and apparently the work of…a Harpy Eagle! That really was as close as we got. A Pauraque in broad daylight on the ground was a good find, and we completed our jungle birding with White-lined Tanagers, Thick-billed Euphonias and three species of woodcreepers - plus another Sharpbill!

After a leisurely lunch, and (guess what) a last desperate look for the Harpy, it was time to head back to Cuiabá, on fast but alarmingly uneven roads! We reached the city shortly after nightfall, and checked in for the fourth and final time to the Hotel Diplomata.

Day 22 - 25th August

Transport day. 11.00 - depart for airport. Uneventful Varig flight to São Paulo via Campo Grande. Lengthy wait at the international airport broken up by starting to type this trip report in a cybercafé! On time departure with Varig at c. 2230. Overnight flight to London Heathrow (c. 11½ hours), arriving early afternoon on the Monday (26th August).

Finished. That was that. An unbelievable trip - utterly unreal. Writing these words, some four weeks after getting home, and looking at the fabulous set of photos we took, it seems a long way away, and yet fresh and vibrant. This one will live long in the memory, and for sheer diversity of birds (6%+ of ALL known species - plus [at least] one not yet described by science!), brilliance of colour, excellence of guiding, accommodation, food and not least habitat, will take a lot of beating. The best birding on Earth - ever?

Greater Rhea

Rhea americana

Undulated Tinamou

Crypturellus undulatus

Small-billed Tinamou

Crypturellus parvirostris

Tataupa Tinamou

Crypturellus tataupa

Southern Screamer

Chauna torquata

White-faced Whistling Duck

Dendrocygna viduata

Black-bellied Whistling Duck

Dendrocygna autumnalis

Muscovy Duck

Cairina moschata

Brazilian Teal

Amazonetta brasiliensis

Blue-throated Piping Guan

Pipile cumanensis

Red-throated Piping Guan

Pipile cujubi

Spix's Guan

Penelope jacquacu

Dusky-legged Guan

Penelope obscura

Chestnut-bellied Guan

Penelope ochrogaster

Bare-faced Curassow

Crax fasciolata

Razor-billed Curassow

Mitu tuberosum

Chaco Chachalaca

Ortalis canicollis

Spot-winged Wood Quail

Odontophorus capueira

Least Grebe

Tachybaptus dominicus

Guira Cuckoo

Guira guira

Greater Ani

Crotophaga major

Smooth-billed Ani

Crotophaga ani

Striped Cuckoo

Tapera naevia

Pheasant Cuckoo

Dromococcyx phasianellus

Little Cuckoo

Coccycua minuta

Ash-colored Cuckoo

Coccycua cinerea

Common Squirrel Cuckoo

Piaya cayana

Black-bellied Cuckoo

Piaya melanogaster

Dark-billed Cuckoo

Coccyzus melacoryphus

Blue Ground Dove

Claravis pretiosa

Long-tailed Ground Dove

Uropelia campestris

Ruddy Ground Dove

Columbina talpacoti

Scaled Dove

Columbina squammata

Picui Ground Dove

Columbina picui

Ruddy Quail-Dove

Geotrygon montana

White-tipped Dove

Leptotila verreauxi

Grey-fronted Dove

Leptotila rufaxilla

Pale-vented Pigeon

Patagioenas cayennensis

Scaled Pigeon

Patagioenas speciosa

Picazuro Pigeon

Patagioenas picazuro

Plumbeous Pigeon

Patagioenas plumbea

Ruddy Pigeon

Patagioenas subvinacea

Hoatzin

Opisthocomus hoazin

Limpkin

Aramus guarauna

Sungrebe

Heliornis fulica

Grey-cowled Wood Rail

Aramides cajaneus

Slaty-breasted Wood Rail

Aramides saracura

Common Gallinule

Gallinula galeata

Black-necked Stilt

Himantopus mexicanus

Pied Plover

Hoploxypterus cayanus

Southern Lapwing

Vanellus chilensis

Wattled Jacana

Jacana jacana

Solitary Sandpiper

Tringa solitaria

Greater Yellowlegs

Tringa melanoleuca

Large-billed Tern

Phaetusa simplex

Kelp Gull

Larus dominicanus

Sunbittern

Eurypyga helias

Wood Stork

Mycteria americana

Jabiru

Jabiru mycteria

Maguari Stork

Ciconia maguari

Magnificent Frigatebird

Fregata magnificens

Anhinga

Anhinga anhinga

Neotropic Cormorant

Nannopterum brasilianum

Plumbeous Ibis

Theristicus caerulescens

Buff-necked Ibis

Theristicus caudatus

Green Ibis

Mesembrinibis cayennensis

Bare-faced Ibis

Phimosus infuscatus

Roseate Spoonbill

Platalea ajaja

Rufescent Tiger Heron

Tigrisoma lineatum

Boat-billed Heron

Cochlearius cochlearius

Agami Heron

Agamia agami

Zigzag Heron

Zebrilus undulatus

Capped Heron

Pilherodius pileatus

Whistling Heron

Syrigma sibilatrix

Little Blue Heron

Egretta caerulea

Snowy Egret

Egretta thula

Black-crowned Night Heron

Nycticorax nycticorax

Striated Heron

Butorides striata

Great Egret

Ardea alba

Western Cattle Egret

Ardea ibis

Cocoi Heron

Ardea cocoi

Band-tailed Nighthawk

Nyctiprogne leucopyga

Blackish Nightjar

Nyctipolus nigrescens

Pauraque

Nyctidromus albicollis

Spot-tailed Nightjar

Antiurus maculicaudus

Scissor-tailed Nightjar

Hydropsalis torquata

Long-trained Nightjar

Hydropsalis forcipata

Ocellated Poorwill

Nyctiphrynus ocellatus

Rufous Nightjar

Antrostomus rufus

Nacunda Nighthawk

Chordeiles nacunda

Lesser Nighthawk

Chordeiles acutipennis

Great Potoo

Nyctibius grandis

Common Potoo

Nyctibius griseus

White-collared Swift

Streptoprocne zonaris

Biscutate Swift

Streptoprocne biscutata

Great Dusky Swift

Cypseloides senex

Grey-rumped Swift

Chaetura cinereiventris

Pale-rumped Swift

Chaetura egregia

Short-tailed Swift

Chaetura brachyura

Fork-tailed Palm Swift

Tachornis squamata

Black Jacobin

Florisuga fusca

Crimson Topaz

Topaza pella

Saw-billed Hermit

Ramphodon naevius

Great-billed Hermit

Phaethornis malaris

Dusky-throated Hermit

Phaethornis squalidus

Cinnamon-throated Hermit

Phaethornis nattereri

Scale-throated Hermit

Phaethornis eurynome

White-vented Violetear

Colibri serrirostris

Horned Sungem

Heliactin bilophus

Black-eared Fairy

Heliothryx auritus

White-tailed Goldenthroat

Polytmus guainumbi

Black-throated Mango

Anthracothorax nigricollis

Brazilian Ruby

Heliodoxa rubricauda

Frilled Coquette

Lophornis magnificus

Festive Coquette

Lophornis chalybeus

Long-billed Starthroat

Heliomaster longirostris

Amethyst Woodstar

Calliphlox amethystina

Glittering-bellied Emerald

Chlorostilbon lucidus

Green-crowned Plovercrest

Stephanoxis lalandi

Violet-capped Woodnymph

Thalurania glaucopis

Fork-tailed Woodnymph

Thalurania furcata

Sombre Hummingbird

Eupetomena cirrochloris

Swallow-tailed Hummingbird

Eupetomena macroura

Versicolored Emerald

Chrysuronia versicolor

White-throated Hummingbird

Leucochloris albicollis

Glittering-throated Emerald

Chionomesa fimbriata

Gilded Sapphire

Hylocharis chrysura

American Barn Owl

Tyto furcata

Burrowing Owl

Athene cunicularia

Amazonian Pygmy Owl

Glaucidium hardyi

Ferruginous Pygmy Owl

Glaucidium brasilianum

Great Horned Owl

Bubo virginianus

Tropical Screech Owl

Megascops choliba

Tawny-bellied Screech Owl

Megascops watsonii

Tawny-browed Owl

Pulsatrix koeniswaldiana

Black-banded Owl

Strix huhula

Rusty-barred Owl

Strix hylophila

King Vulture

Sarcoramphus papa

Black Vulture

Coragyps atratus

Turkey Vulture

Cathartes aura

Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture

Cathartes burrovianus

Greater Yellow-headed Vulture

Cathartes melambrotus

White-tailed Kite

Elanus leucurus

Grey-headed Kite

Leptodon cayanensis

Swallow-tailed Kite

Elanoides forficatus

Black Hawk-Eagle

Spizaetus tyrannus

Ornate Hawk-Eagle

Spizaetus ornatus

Grey-bellied Hawk

Accipiter poliogaster

Bicolored Hawk

Astur bicolor

Long-winged Harrier

Circus buffoni

Plumbeous Kite

Ictinia plumbea

Crane Hawk

Geranospiza caerulescens

Black-collared Hawk

Busarellus nigricollis

Snail Kite

Rostrhamus sociabilis

Savanna Hawk

Buteogallus meridionalis

Great Black Hawk

Buteogallus urubitinga

Roadside Hawk

Rupornis magnirostris

White Hawk

Pseudastur albicollis

White-tailed Hawk

Geranoaetus albicaudatus

Grey Hawk

Buteo plagiatus

Black-tailed Trogon

Trogon melanurus

White-tailed Trogon

Trogon chionurus

Blue-crowned Trogon

Trogon curucui

Surucua Trogon

Trogon surrucura

Amazonian Black-throated Trogon

Trogon rufus

Collared Trogon

Trogon collaris

Broad-billed Motmot

Electron platyrhynchum

Rufous-capped Motmot

Baryphthengus ruficapillus

Amazonian Motmot

Momotus momota

Ringed Kingfisher

Megaceryle torquata

Amazon Kingfisher

Chloroceryle amazona

American Pygmy Kingfisher

Chloroceryle aenea

Green Kingfisher

Chloroceryle americana

Green-and-rufous Kingfisher

Chloroceryle inda

Blue-necked Jacamar

Galbula cyanicollis

Rufous-tailed Jacamar

Galbula ruficauda

Paradise Jacamar

Galbula dea

Spotted Puffbird

Bucco tamatia

Eastern Striolated Puffbird

Nystalus striolatus

White-eared Puffbird

Nystalus chacuru

Spot-backed Puffbird

Nystalus maculatus

Swallow-winged Puffbird

Chelidoptera tenebrosa

Black-fronted Nunbird

Monasa nigrifrons

White-fronted Nunbird

Monasa morphoeus

Rufous-capped Nunlet

Nonnula ruficapilla

White-necked Puffbird

Notharchus hyperrhynchus

Brown-banded Puffbird

Notharchus ordii

Pied Puffbird

Notharchus tectus

Black-girdled Barbet

Capito dayi

Toco Toucan

Ramphastos toco

White-throated Toucan

Ramphastos tucanus

Channel-billed Toucan

Ramphastos vitellinus

Red-breasted Toucan

Ramphastos dicolorus

Saffron Toucanet

Pteroglossus bailloni

Lettered Aracari

Pteroglossus inscriptus

Chestnut-eared Aracari

Pteroglossus castanotis

Curl-crested Aracari

Pteroglossus beauharnaisii

Red-necked Aracari

Pteroglossus bitorquatus

Gould's Toucanet

Selenidera gouldii

Spot-billed Toucanet

Selenidera maculirostris

Bar-breasted Piculet

Picumnus aurifrons

White-barred Piculet

Picumnus cirratus

White-wedged Piculet

Picumnus albosquamatus

Lineated Woodpecker

Dryocopus lineatus

Cream-colored Woodpecker

Celeus flavus

Chestnut Woodpecker

Celeus elegans

Pale-crested Woodpecker

Celeus lugubris

Yellow-throated Woodpecker

Piculus flavigula

Golden-green Woodpecker

Piculus chrysochloros

Yellow-browed Woodpecker

Piculus aurulentus

Campo Flicker

Colaptes campestris

Red-necked Woodpecker

Campephilus rubricollis

Robust Woodpecker

Campephilus robustus

Crimson-crested Woodpecker

Campephilus melanoleucos

White Woodpecker

Melanerpes candidus

Yellow-tufted Woodpecker

Melanerpes cruentatus

Yellow-fronted Woodpecker

Melanerpes flavifrons

White-spotted Woodpecker

Veniliornis spilogaster

Checkered Woodpecker

Veniliornis mixtus

Little Woodpecker

Veniliornis passerinus

Red-stained Woodpecker

Veniliornis affinis

Red-legged Seriema

Cariama cristata

Laughing Falcon

Herpetotheres cachinnans

Cryptic Forest Falcon

Micrastur mintoni

Crested Caracara

Caracara plancus

Red-throated Caracara

Ibycter americanus

Yellow-headed Caracara

Daptrius chimachima

Black Caracara

Daptrius ater

American Kestrel

Falco sparverius

Bat Falcon

Falco rufigularis

Aplomado Falcon

Falco femoralis

Dusky-billed Parrotlet

Forpus modestus

Cobalt-rumped Parrotlet

Forpus xanthopterygius

Monk Parakeet

Myiopsitta monachus

Plain Parakeet

Brotogeris tirica

Yellow-chevroned Parakeet

Brotogeris chiriri

Golden-winged Parakeet

Brotogeris chrysoptera

Pileated Parrot

Pionopsitta pileata

Scaly-headed Parrot

Pionus maximiliani

Blue-headed Parrot

Pionus menstruus

Vinaceous-breasted Amazon

Amazona vinacea

Yellow-crowned Amazon

Amazona ochrocephala

Turquoise-fronted Amazon

Amazona aestiva

Mealy Amazon

Amazona farinosa

Kawall's Amazon

Amazona kawalli

Orange-winged Amazon

Amazona amazonica

Red-fan Parrot

Deroptyus accipitrinus

White-bellied Parrot

Pionites leucogaster

Maroon-bellied Parakeet

Pyrrhura frontalis

Crimson-bellied Parakeet

Pyrrhura perlata

Painted Parakeet

Pyrrhura picta

Hyacinth Macaw

Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus

Dusky-headed Parakeet

Aratinga weddellii

Nanday Parakeet

Aratinga nenday

Red-bellied Macaw

Orthopsittaca manilatus

Blue-winged Macaw

Primolius maracana

Golden-collared Macaw

Primolius auricollis

Blue-and-yellow Macaw

Ara ararauna

Chestnut-fronted Macaw

Ara severus

Scarlet Macaw

Ara macao

Red-and-green Macaw

Ara chloropterus

Peach-fronted Parakeet

Eupsittula aurea

Blue-crowned Parakeet

Thectocercus acuticaudatus

Red-shouldered Macaw

Diopsittaca nobilis

White-eyed Parakeet

Psittacara leucophthalmus

Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin

Tyranneutes stolzmanni

Pale-bellied Tyrant-Manakin

Neopelma pallescens

Pin-tailed Manakin

Ilicura militaris

Helmeted Manakin

Chiroxiphia galeata

Blue Manakin

Chiroxiphia caudata

Flame-crested Manakin

Heterocercus linteatus

White-bearded Manakin

Manacus manacus

Band-tailed Manakin

Pipra fasciicauda

Fiery-capped Manakin

Machaeropterus pyrocephalus

Red-headed Manakin

Ceratopipra rubrocapilla

Red-ruffed Fruitcrow

Pyroderus scutatus

Bare-necked Fruitcrow

Gymnoderus foetidus

Pompadour Cotinga

Xipholena punicea

Spangled Cotinga

Cotinga cayana

Screaming Piha

Lipaugus vociferans

Black-and-gold Cotinga

Lipaugus ater

Varzea Schiffornis

Schiffornis major

Brown-winged Schiffornis

Schiffornis turdina

Greenish Schiffornis

Schiffornis virescens

Buff-throated Purpletuft

Iodopleura pipra

Black-tailed Tityra

Tityra cayana

Black-crowned Tityra

Tityra inquisitor

Masked Tityra

Tityra semifasciata

Green-backed Becard

Pachyramphus viridis

Chestnut-crowned Becard

Pachyramphus castaneus

White-winged Becard

Pachyramphus polychopterus

Black-capped Becard

Pachyramphus marginatus

Pink-throated Becard

Pachyramphus minor

Sharpbill

Oxyruncus cristatus

Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher

Terenotriccus erythrurus

Whiskered Myiobius

Myiobius barbatus

Wing-barred Piprites

Piprites chloris

Black-capped Piprites

Piprites pileata

White-throated Spadebill

Platyrinchus mystaceus

White-crested Spadebill

Platyrinchus platyrhynchos

Southern Antpipit

Corythopis delalandi

Sepia-capped Flycatcher

Leptopogon amaurocephalus

Serra do Mar Bristle Tyrant

Pogonotriccus difficilis

Sao Paulo Bristle Tyrant

Pogonotriccus paulista

Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet

Phylloscartes ventralis

Yellow-olive Flatbill

Tolmomyias sulphurescens

Yellow-margined Flatbill

Tolmomyias assimilis

Grey-crowned Flatbill

Tolmomyias poliocephalus

Spotted Tody-Flycatcher

Todirostrum maculatum

Yellow-lored Tody-Flycatcher4729

Todirostrum poliocephalum

Common Tody-Flycatcher

Todirostrum cinereum

Rusty-fronted Tody-Flycatcher

Poecilotriccus latirostris

Snethlage's Tody-Tyrant

Hemitriccus minor

Stripe-necked Tody-Tyrant

Hemitriccus striaticollis

Hangnest Tody-Tyrant

Hemitriccus nidipendulus

Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant

Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer

Fork-tailed Tody-Tyrant

Hemitriccus furcatus

Short-tailed Pygmy Tyrant

Myiornis ecaudatus

Helmeted Pygmy Tyrant

Lophotriccus galeatus

Cliff Flycatcher (Swallow Flycatcher)

Hirundinea ferruginea

Fulvous-crowned Scrub Tyrant

Euscarthmus meloryphus

Rufous-sided Scrub Tyrant

Euscarthmus rufomarginatus

Plain Inezia

Inezia inornata

Southern Beardless Tyrannulet

Camptostoma obsoletum

Forest Elaenia

Myiopagis gaimardii

Grey-headed Elaenia

Myiopagis caniceps

Plain-crested Elaenia

Elaenia cristata

Yellow-bellied Elaenia

Elaenia flavogaster

Campos & Chapada Flycatchers

Suiriri suiriri - lumped

Yellow Tyrannulet

Capsiempis flaveola

Greenish Tyrannulet

Phyllomyias virescens

Planalto Tyrannulet

Phyllomyias fasciatus

Grey-capped Tyrannulet

Phyllomyias griseocapilla

Mouse-colored Tyrannulet

Nesotriccus murinus

Sooty Tyrannulet

Serpophaga nigricans

White-crested Tyrannulet

Serpophaga subcristata

Large-headed Flatbill

Ramphotrigon megacephalum

Rufous-tailed Flatbill

Ramphotrigon ruficauda

Dusky-tailed Flatbill

Ramphotrigon fuscicauda

Sibilant Sirystes

Sirystes sibilator

Rufous Casiornis

Casiornis rufus

Dusky-capped Flycatcher

Myiarchus tuberculifer

Short-crested Flycatcher

Myiarchus ferox

Brown-crested Flycatcher

Myiarchus tyrannulus

Piratic Flycatcher

Legatus leucophaius

Cinnamon Attila

Attila cinnamomeus

White-eyed Attila

Attila bolivianus

Grey-hooded Attila

Attila rufus

Cattle Tyrant

Machetornis rixosa

Lesser Kiskadee

Philohydor lictor

Great Kiskadee

Pitangus sulphuratus

Rusty-margined Flycatcher

Myiozetetes cayanensis

Social Flycatcher

Myiozetetes similis

Dusky-chested Flycatcher

Myiozetetes luteiventris

Streaked Flycatcher

Myiodynastes maculatus

Sulphury Flycatcher

Tyrannopsis sulphurea

Boat-billed Flycatcher

Megarynchus pitangua

Variegated Flycatcher

Empidonomus varius

Crowned Slaty Flycatcher

Empidonomus aurantioatrocristatus

Fork-tailed Flycatcher

Tyrannus savana

White-throated Kingbird

Tyrannus albogularis

Tropical Kingbird

Tyrannus melancholicus

Bran-colored Flycatcher

Myiophobus fasciatus

Southern Scrub Flycatcher

Sublegatus modestus

Long-tailed Tyrant

Colonia colonus

White-headed Marsh Tyrant

Arundinicola leucocephala

Black-backed Water Tyrant

Fluvicola albiventer

Masked Water Tyrant

Fluvicola nengeta

Vermilion Flycatcher

Pyrocephalus rubinus

Shear-tailed Grey Tyrant

Muscipipra vetula

Streamer-tailed Tyrant

Gubernetes yetapa

Fuscous Flycatcher

Cnemotriccus fuscatus

Euler's Flycatcher

Lathrotriccus euleri

Southern Tropical Pewee

Contopus cinereus

Yellow-browed Tyrant

Satrapa icterophrys

Crested Black Tyrant

Knipolegus lophotes

Velvety Black Tyrant

Knipolegus nigerrimus

Blue-billed Black Tyrant

Knipolegus cyanirostris

White-rumped Monjita

Xolmis velatus

Grey Monjita

Nengetus cinereus

Collared Crescentchest

Melanopareia torquata

Black-cheeked Gnateater

Conopophaga melanops

Rufous Gnateater

Conopophaga lineata

Spot-winged Antshrike

Pygiptila stellaris

Dot-winged Antwren

Microrhopias quixensis

Black-throated Antbird

Myrmophylax atrothorax

Streak-capped Antwren

Terenura maculata

Pygmy Antwren

Myrmotherula brachyura

Amazonian Streaked Antwren

Myrmotherula multostriata

White-flanked Antwren

Myrmotherula axillaris

Long-winged Antwren

Myrmotherula longipennis

Unicolored Antwren

Myrmotherula unicolor

Grey Antwren

Myrmotherula menetriesii

Rusty-backed Antwren

Formicivora rufa

Plain-throated Antwren

Isleria hauxwelli

Cinereous Antshrike

Thamnomanes caesius

Star-throated Antwren

Rhopias gularis

Fasciated Antshrike

Cymbilaimus lineatus

Great Antshrike

Taraba major

Spot-backed Antshrike

Hypoedaleus guttatus

Large-tailed Antshrike

Mackenziaena leachii

White-bearded Antshrike

Biatas nigropectus

Plain Antvireo

Dysithamnus mentalis

Rufous-backed Antvireo

Dysithamnus xanthopterus

Large-billed Antwren

Herpsilochmus longirostris

Rufous-margined Antwren

Herpsilochmus rufimarginatus

Glossy Antshrike

Sakesphorus luctuosus

Barred Antshrike

Thamnophilus doliatus

Rufous-winged Antshrike

Thamnophilus torquatus

Chestnut-backed Antshrike

Thamnophilus palliatus

Plain-winged Antshrike

Thamnophilus schistaceus

Natterer's Slaty Antshrike

Thamnophilus stictocephalus

Planalto Slaty Antshrike

Thamnophilus pelzelni

Variable Antshrike

Thamnophilus caerulescens

White-shouldered Antshrike

Thamnophilus aethiops

Amazonian Antshrike

Thamnophilus amazonicus

Common Scale-backed Antbird

Willisornis poecilinotus

Black-spotted Bare-eye

Phlegopsis nigromaculata

Bare-eyed Antbird

Rhegmatorhina gymnops

Manu Antbird

Cercomacra manu

Grey Antbird

Cercomacra cinerascens

Mato Grosso Antbird

Cercomacra melanaria

Southern Chestnut-tailed Antbird

Sciaphylax hemimelaena

Guianan Warbling Antbird

Hypocnemis cantator

Ferruginous Antbird

Drymophila ferruginea

Bertoni's Antbird

Drymophila rubricollis

Rufous-tailed Antbird

Drymophila genei

Scaled Antbird

Drymophila squamata

White-bibbed Antbird

Myrmoderus loricatus

Squamate Antbird

Myrmoderus squamosus

Band-tailed Antbird

Hypocnemoides maculicauda

White-browed Antbird

Myrmoborus leucophrys

Black-faced Antbird

Myrmoborus myotherinus

East Amazonian Fire-eye

Pyriglena leuconota

White-shouldered Fire-eye

Pyriglena leucoptera

Slaty Bristlefront

Merulaxis ater

Mouse-colored Tapaculo

Scytalopus speluncae

Rufous-capped Antthrush

Formicarius colma

Wedge-billed Woodcreeper

Glyphorynchus spirurus

Olivaceous Woodcreeper

Sittasomus griseicapillus

Plain-brown Woodcreeper

Dendrocincla fuliginosa

Long-billed Woodcreeper

Nasica longirostris

Black-banded Woodcreeper

Dendrocolaptes picumnus

Strong-billed Woodcreeper

Xiphocolaptes promeropirhynchus

White-throated Woodcreeper

Xiphocolaptes albicollis

Great Rufous Woodcreeper

Xiphocolaptes major

Lesser Woodcreeper

Xiphorhynchus fuscus

Buff-throated Woodcreeper

Xiphorhynchus guttatus

[Dusky-billed Woodcreeper]

[Xiphorhynchus eytoni] - lumped

Straight-billed Woodcreeper

Dendroplex picus

Red-billed Scythebill

Campylorhamphus trochilirostris

Black-billed Scythebill

Campylorhamphus falcularius

Curve-billed Scythebill

Campylorhamphus procurvoides

Narrow-billed Woodcreeper

Lepidocolaptes angustirostris

Scaled Woodcreeper

Lepidocolaptes squamatus

Guianan Woodcreeper

Lepidocolaptes albolineatus

Atlantic Plain Xenops

Xenops minutus

Streaked Xenops

Xenops rutilans

Point-tailed Palmcreeper

Berlepschia rikeri

Pale-browed Treehunter

Cichlocolaptes leucophrus

Black-capped Foliage-gleaner

Philydor atricapillus

White-collared Foliage-gleaner

Anabazenops fuscus

Bamboo Foliage-gleaner

Anabazenops dorsalis

Rufous-tailed Foliage-gleaner

Anabacerthia ruficaudata

Buff-browed Foliage-gleaner

Syndactyla rufosuperciliata

Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner

Dendroma rufa

Ochre-throated Foliage-gleaner

Automolus ochrolaemus

Eastern Woodhaunter

Automolus subulatus

Olive-backed Foliage-gleaner

Automolus infuscatus

White-eyed Foliage-gleaner

Automolus leucophthalmus

Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper

Lochmias nematura

Band-tailed Hornero

Furnarius figulus

Pale-legged Hornero

Furnarius leucopus

Rufous Hornero

Furnarius rufus

Araucaria Tit-Spinetail

Leptasthenura setaria

Rufous-fronted Thornbird

Phacellodomus rufifrons

Greater Thornbird

Phacellodomus ruber

Orange-eyed Thornbird

Phacellodomus erythrophthalmus

Grey-crested Cacholote

Pseudoseisura unirufa

Rusty-backed Spinetail

Cranioleuca vulpina

Pallid Spinetail

Cranioleuca pallida

Chotoy Spinetail

Schoeniophylax phryganophilus

Yellow-chinned Spinetail

Certhiaxis cinnamomeus

Plain-crowned Spinetail

Synallaxis gujanensis

White-lored Spinetail

Synallaxis albilora

Rufous-capped Spinetail

Synallaxis ruficapilla

Cinereous-breasted Spinetail

Synallaxis hypospodia

Spix's Spinetail

Synallaxis spixi

Pale-breasted Spinetail

Synallaxis albescens

Chestnut-throated Spinetail

Synallaxis cherriei

Rufous-browed Peppershrike

Cyclarhis gujanensis

Rufous-crowned Greenlet

Hylophilus poicilotis

Ashy-headed Greenlet

Hylophilus pectoralis

Grey-chested Greenlet

Hylophilus semicinereus

Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo

Vireolanius leucotis

Chivi Vireo

Vireo chivi

Purplish Jay

Cyanocorax cyanomelas

Curl-crested Jay

Cyanocorax cristatellus

Plush-crested Jay

Cyanocorax chrysops

Black-capped Donacobius

Donacobius atricapilla

White-winged Swallow

Tachycineta albiventer

Grey-breasted Martin

Progne chalybea

Brown-chested Martin

Progne tapera

Southern Rough-winged Swallow

Stelgidopteryx ruficollis

White-thighed Swallow

Atticora tibialis

White-banded Swallow

Atticora fasciata

Blue-and-white Swallow

Pygochelidon cyanoleuca

Trilling Gnatwren

Ramphocaenus melanurus

Masked Gnatcatcher

Polioptila dumicola

Thrush-like Wren

Campylorhynchus turdinus

Southern House Wren

Troglodytes musculus

Tooth-billed Wren

Odontorchilus cinereus

Moustached Wren

Pheugopedius genibarbis

Buff-breasted Wren

Cantorchilus leucotis

Long-billed Wren

Cantorchilus longirostris

Fawn-breasted Wren

Cantorchilus guarayanus

Musician Wren

Cyphorhinus arada

Chalk-browed Mockingbird

Mimus saturninus

Creamy-bellied Thrush

Turdus amaurochalinus

Yellow-legged Thrush

Turdus flavipes

Lawrence's Thrush

Turdus lawrencii

Pale-breasted Thrush

Turdus leucomelas

Cocoa Thrush

Turdus fumigatus

Rufous-bellied Thrush

Turdus rufiventris

House Sparrow

Passer domesticus

Yellowish Pipit

Anthus chii

Hellmayr's Pipit

Anthus hellmayri

Golden-rumped Euphonia

Chlorophonia cyanocephala

Blue-naped Chlorophonia

Chlorophonia cyanea

Purple-throated Euphonia

Euphonia chlorotica

White-lored Euphonia

Euphonia chrysopasta

Violaceous Euphonia

Euphonia violacea

Thick-billed Euphonia

Euphonia laniirostris

Orange-bellied Euphonia

Euphonia xanthogaster

Rufous-bellied Euphonia

Euphonia rufiventris

Chestnut-bellied Euphonia

Euphonia pectoralis

Grassland Sparrow

Ammodramus humeralis

Pectoral Sparrow

Arremon taciturnus

Saffron-billed Sparrow

Arremon flavirostris

Rufous-collared Sparrow

Zonotrichia capensis

White-browed Meadowlark

Leistes superciliaris

Crested Oropendola

Psarocolius decumanus

Olive Oropendola

Psarocolius bifasciatus

Solitary Cacique

Cacicus solitarius

Golden-winged Cacique

Cacicus chrysopterus

Yellow-rumped Cacique

Cacicus cela

Red-rumped Cacique

Cacicus haemorrhous

Epaulet Oriole

Icterus cayanensis

Orange-backed Troupial

Icterus croconotus

Screaming Cowbird

Molothrus rufoaxillaris

Shiny Cowbird

Molothrus bonariensis

Giant Cowbird

Molothrus oryzivorus

Scarlet-headed Blackbird

Amblyramphus holosericeus

Chopi Blackbird

Gnorimopsar chopi

Unicolored Blackbird

Agelasticus cyanopus

Greyish Baywing

Agelaioides badius

Chestnut-capped Blackbird

Chrysomus ruficapillus

Southern Yellowthroat

Geothlypis velata

Tropical Parula

Setophaga pitiayumi

Flavescent Warbler

Myiothlypis flaveola

White-rimmed Warbler

Myiothlypis leucoblephara

Riverbank Warbler

Myiothlypis rivularis

Golden-crowned & White-bellied Warbler

Basileuterus culicivorus - lumped

Rose-breasted Chat

Granatellus pelzelni

Red-crowned Ant Tanager

Habia rubica

Hepatic Tanager

Piranga flava

Olive-green Tanager

Orthogonys chloricterus

Red-billed Pied Tanager

Lamprospiza melanoleuca

Brown Tanager

Orchesticus abeillei

Yellow-shouldered Grosbeak

Parkerthraustes humeralis

Hooded Tanager

Nemosia pileata

Swallow Tanager

Tersina viridis

Purple Honeycreeper

Cyanerpes caeruleus

Red-legged Honeycreeper

Cyanerpes cyaneus

Yellow-bellied Dacnis

Dacnis flaviventer

Blue Dacnis

Dacnis cayana

Guira Tanager

Hemithraupis guira

Rufous-headed Tanager

Hemithraupis ruficapilla

Blue-black Grassquit

Volatinia jacarina

Grey-headed Tanager

Eucometis penicillata

Black-goggled Tanager

Trichothraupis melanops

Flame-crested Tanager

Loriotus cristatus

White-shouldered Tanager

Loriotus luctuosus

Red Pileated Finch

Coryphospingus cucullatus

White-winged Shrike-Tanager

Lanio versicolor

Ruby-crowned Tanager

Tachyphonus coronatus

White-lined Tanager

Tachyphonus rufus

Brazilian Tanager

Ramphocelus bresilia

Silver-beaked Tanager

Ramphocelus carbo

Coal-crested Finch

Charitospiza eucosma

Chestnut-vented Conebill

Conirostrum speciosum

Saffron Finch

Sicalis flaveola

Uniform Finch

Haplospiza unicolor

Black-throated Saltator

Saltatricula atricollis

Buff-throated Saltator

Saltator maximus

Bluish-grey Saltator

Saltator coerulescens

Green-winged Saltator

Saltator similis

Thick-billed Saltator

Saltator maxillosus

Slate-colored Grosbeak

Saltator grossus

Black-throated Grosbeak

Saltator fuliginosus

Wedge-tailed Grass Finch

Emberizoides herbicola

Lesser Grass Finch

Emberizoides ypiranganus

Blue Finch

Rhopospina caerulescens

White-bellied Seedeater

Sporophila leucoptera

Chestnut-bellied Seed Finch

Sporophila angolensis

Yellow-bellied Seedeater

Sporophila nigricollis

Double-collared Seedeater

Sporophila caerulescens

Plumbeous Seedeater

Sporophila plumbea

Rusty-collared Seedeater

Sporophila collaris

White-rumped Tanager

Cypsnagra hirundinacea

Buff-throated Warbling Finch

Microspingus lateralis

Bananaquit

Coereba flaveola

Fawn-breasted Tanager

Pipraeidea melanonota

Shrike-like Tanager

Neothraupis fasciata

Diademed Tanager

Stephanophorus diadematus

Magpie Tanager

Cissopis leverianus

Red-crested Cardinal

Paroaria coronata

Red-capped Cardinal

Paroaria gularis

Yellow-billed Cardinal

Paroaria capitata

Green-headed Tanager

Tangara seledon

Red-necked Tanager

Tangara cyanocephala

Brassy-breasted Tanager

Tangara desmaresti

Gilt-edged Tanager

Tangara cyanoventris

Blue-grey Tanager

Thraupis episcopus

Sayaca Tanager

Thraupis sayaca

Golden-chevroned Tanager

Thraupis ornata

Palm Tanager

Thraupis palmarum

Burnished-buff Tanager

Stilpnia cayana

Masked Tanager

Stilpnia nigrocincta

Heard only

Red-winged Tinamou

Rhynchotus rufescens

Grey Tinamou

Tinamus tao

Little Tinamou

Crypturellus soui

Brown Tinamou

Crypturellus obsoletus

Brazilian Tinamou

Crypturellus strigulosus

Marbled Wood Quail

Odontophorus gujanensis

Ash-throated Crake

Mustelirallus albicollis

Uniform Crake

Amaurolimnas concolor

Rufous-sided Crake

Laterallus melanophaius

Little Nightjar

Setopagis parvula

East Brazilian Pygmy Owl

Glaucidium minutissimum

Crested Owl

Lophostrix cristata

Green-barred Woodpecker

Colaptes melanochloros

Barred Forest Falcon

Micrastur ruficollis

Saffron-crested Tyrant-Manakin

Neopelma chrysocephalum

Bare-throated Bellbird

Procnias nudicollis

White-bellied Tody-Tyrant

Hemitriccus griseipectus

Zimmer's Tody-Tyrant

Hemitriccus minimus

Striated Antbird

Drymophila devillei

Speckle-breasted Antpitta

Cryptopezus nattereri

Spotted Antpitta

Hylopezus macularius

Thrush-like Antpitta

Myrmothera campanisona

Variegated Antpitta

Grallaria varia

Spotted Bamboowren

Psilorhamphus guttatus

White-breasted Tapaculo

Eleoscytalopus indigoticus

Short-tailed Antthrush

Chamaeza campanisona

Striated Antthrush

Chamaeza nobilis

Cryptic Antthrush

Chamaeza meruloides

Rufous-tailed Antthrush

Chamaeza ruficauda

Plain-winged Woodcreeper

Dendrocincla turdina

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