Northern India highlights

21st December 2001 - 2nd January 2002

Simon Woolley, Julia Casson, Chris Mills & Jacky Harris

See photo page here

We had visited Goa three years ago (see our report), and I had been to India on two other occasions (Rajasthan in 1994, Tamil Nadu/Karnataka in 1996), but it was time to try for Tigers and to see some of the fantastic birds of northern India in winter.

Practicalities

The flights were not cheap at this high season period, but at least the BA option gets you direct to Delhi without a stop. Past experiences in Bahrain have not been fun, and we met a group on their way back with Austrian Airways who were about 18 hours late.... We booked our flights through ebookers.

Ground arrangements

We arranged all our local needs through my old friend Raj Kapila of Greater India Tours. Raj has arranged two previous trips for me, and I trust him utterly. He will provide just what you need at a sensible price, be it an all inclusive package, or just the car and driver so necessary for a short trip to the subcontinent. We recommend him and his company without reservation. Do visit the website, give him a call, and mention our names. He set us up with an excellent car - a Toyota Qualis. While it's no great looker, this motor is a big step up from a Hindustan Ambassador (=Morris Oxford!). It accommodated four plus a driver and baggage with ease, and at a pinch could accommodate five or even six birders. Excellent visibility, good ride and good power on hills. Recommended!

We got Raj to pre-book our accommodation too - we had little enough time as it was without messing about trying to find rooms in high season. He did us proud, and we had good hotels in prime locations in each case :

Ranthambore : Hotel Jhoomer Bawri - a Rajasthan Government hotel in a prime location right by the park boundary. Stunning views over the plain, and good birding in the dry scrub adjacent, which is also apparently good Leopard habitat!

Bharatpur : Forest Rest House - located actually inside the National Park, so siting hard to fault. Again, a Government run hotel, and typically a bit tired as a result, but recently refurbished, much better than it was in 1994 and food good. Try to avoid rooms 100-103 - they're above the kitchens and a bit noisy/smelly. Try for 50-60.

Nainital : Vikram Vintage Inn - very plush and grand. They are distinctly over-staffed - it can get a bit much after a while! Hot water bottles available and needed at night - cold in Nainital. Excellent food, good assistance when gastroenteritis struck, and a superb antique snooker table.

Corbett : Camp Forktail Creek - superb. The new Backwoods (cf. our Goa Report). A brilliant tented camp off the road 25 km north of Ramnagar. Cracking food, a very warm welcome, excellent guiding, quiet location, ultra soft beds and warm quilts. Do not miss this brilliant new option in the Corbett area. It leaves all other reported lodging standing.

Delhi : Hotel Metro Heights - soulless, urban, perfectly adequate, but bad toast! Fine for a night in Delhi.

Weather

Colder than I had remembered, and definitely not a tropical holiday! Daytime is warm but never very hot, but it gets down to c.5°C at night in the plains, and possibly sub-zero in the hills. Nainital can be colder still in winter, of course.... Fog was a bit of a problem early morning in Ramnagar and Bharatpur, but was clear by 10ish.

Blow-by-blow account

22nd December

Our BA flight departed Heathrow only slightly late at 1900 on 21st, and arrived almost on time in Delhi at 1115 next day. After the usual interminable immigration and money changing antics, we met up with Raj, who soon had us on our way with our driver, Mr. Mahinder Singh. Today was down for jetlag recovery and travel, and we were soon speeding through the countryside on good roads towards Jaipur. We were soon scoring en route with 'easy' species such as Bank Myna, Pied Starling, Black-shouldered Kite, Rose-ringed Parakeet, White-throated Kingfisher, Red-wattled Lapwing, Black Drongo, Indian Roller, Indian Robin, Long-tailed Shrike and so on, and we also picked up good birds such as Black-headed Bunting and a single Oriental Turtle Dove. We stopped a couple of times for drinks and leg stretching, seeing Brown Rock Chat at Amber Fort near Jaipur, plus our first Indian Peafowl and a few waders by the Monsoon Palace. It was well after dark that we finally reached the Hotel Jhoomer Bawri.

23rd December

To the Tiger Reserve! Our jeep arrived on cue at 0615, and we were soon freezing our respective bits off in the chill dawn air - like we cared! We had a party of Painted Sandgrouse in flight before reaching the park, and almost the first bird we saw after the gates was a cracking Brown Fish Owl, perched and in flight. Good start! While our prime target was Tiger and other mammals (of which we saw Chital, Sambar, Nilgai, Hanuman Langur, Northern Palm Squirrel and Indian Gazelle), we were not ignoring the superb birds! Various common waterbirds at the lakes were accompanied by Cotton Pygmy-goose (a.k.a. Quacky Duck - the world's best bird name), Purple Swamp-hens, Oriental Darter, Little Cormorant and White-backed and Long-billed Vultures. It was good to see at least a few of the latter, both of which have declined by 95%+ in India in recent years....

We got close to a Tiger too - but couldn't see it! The pugmarks were fresh, and the alarm calls sounded good, but the animal just wouldn't emerge from cover. Further birds around the park included Crested Serpent Eagle, Jungle and Large Grey Babblers, Bay-backed Shrike, Grey Francolin and Brahminy Starling. Back at the hotel over lunch, further good birds came in the form of Small Minivet, Common Iora, Plum-headed Parakeet, Hume's Warbler, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Rufous Tree-pie, Common Wodshrike, Red-breasted Flycatcher and Stone Curlew.

After an hour's negotiation with the jeep company when it looked like our afternnon jeep ride was going to be shifted to a canter (= communal open lorry - no good at all), due to the visit of a supposed VIP, we finally got our jeep as booked, and set off at 2.30ish for another ride round the park. It was rather quiet to begin with, but towards dusk, birds and animals got more active. Sadly, we could again find no Tiger - the bad news is that just a few days ago up to 15 Tiger bodies were seized near Delhi, including at least one from Ranthambore. We all felt pretty sick at such appalling news.

We scored on the bird front with Alexandrine Parakeet, Asian Palm Swift, Spotted Dove, Pheasant-tailed Jacana, Osprey, Tawny Eagle, Shikra, Asian Magpie-Robin, Dusky Crag Martin, Lesser Whistling Duck, Painted Stork and Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher. Also, we saw Mugger Crocodile, Wild Boar and a pair of Golden Jackals.

24th December

Julia had a bad night in the gut department - she was in no state to go out in a Jeep. So just three of us headed out at dawn - we encountered roughly the same birds, plus a Black Stork and Coppersmith Barbet...but did we see a Tiger? No! We got closer still, however, and tracked fresh pugmarks for 2 miles along the sandy tracks. But not quite close enough....

Fortunately, Julia was feeling well enough to travel by lunchtime. We left Ranthambore and headed out across agricultural plains on the lengthy journey to Bharatpur. Early on in the journey, the road was truly appalling, and we made only snail's pace progress. Along the way, however, we picked up new species such as Rosy Starling, Little Green Bee-eater, Southern Grey Shrike, and three Common Cranes, all species that we did not see elsewhere on our trip. In addition, a few Pied Bushchats, Plain Martins, and various roadside waders enlivened proceedings.

By the time we reached Bharatpur, it was getting dark - it was hard for the three of us who had not been there before to believe that we were in the middle of one of the world's premier wetland bird reserves!

25th December

As expected, a a bird-packed day! We tried to get a bit of pre-breakfast birding in, but it was just too foggy - we only began seriously looking after about 8 o'clock. Very quickly we were seeing crippling birds. Within minutes we had seen both Collared Scops Owl and Dusky Eagle Owl (the latter at the nest), Black-shouldered Kite and Olive-backed Pipit. There were Greenish and Hume's Warblers in most patches of trees, and Red-breasted Flycatchers appeared frequently. Bluethroats darted in and out of the wet ditches. Out on the wetter areas by the main track, numerous waterbirds were obvious - various Egrets and herons, Painted Storks, Bronze-winged Jacana, Black-headed and Glossy Ibis, Bar-headed and Greylag Geese, numerous ducks including a few Spotbills, Comb Ducks and Cotton Teals, Purple Swamp-hens and scores of Citrine Wagtails. Particularly popular were at least four absolutely magnificent Black-necked Storks - incredible birds.

We paused for a few photos and a break at the temple, and then headed off on the loop around the Mansarovar lagoon. In the bushes, we were picking up passerines like Asian Magpie-robin, Plain Prinia, Common and Yellow-eyed Babblers, Blyth's Reed Warbler, Siberian Chiffchaff, White-eared Bulbul and some very smart eastern Black Redstarts. The Mansarovar area was the best for waterbirds - hundreds of perhaps 50 species at a time, including, rarest of all, two superb Siberian White Cranes, the only remaining known birds of the central wintering population. Raptors were now getting up too, and we were seeing numerous Spotted Eagles, plus Tawny Eagle, Crested Serpent Eagle, several Imperial Eagles, including a fine adult, Egyptian and Red-headed Vultures, Marsh Harrier and a crippling male Pallid Harrier. A phoenicuroides (Turkestan) Isabelline Shrike got some serious grilling too.

By now it was mid-afternoon, and we began dawdling homewards, via a superb group of Indian Rock Pythons sunning under the acacia scrub at Python Point. Extra birds picked up included lots of Stonechats, Bay-backed and Long-tailed Shrikes, a Wryneck, Tawny Pipit and a couple of Red Avadavats in with a flock of Indian Silverbills.

The park was very busy by four o'clock, and we were shattered - the last hour of daylight was spent around the hotel! 117 species, without even really trying!

26th December

Boxing Day - all healthy! We met up with Jagdish Prasad, a guide Raj had recommended for us, at 7.30am, and headed off into the woods. We were hoping he could find us a few of the trickier dry land birds we hadn't yet seen. We started off around the Nursery, soon scoring with Indian Grey Hornbill, Brown-headed Barbet, Ashy Drongo, Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, Spotted Owlet, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon and Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch. A regular spot for Tickell's Thrush was too busy (Monkeys!) by the time we got there, alas.

We birded slowly along the wooded tracks by the Hanuman temple, seeing goodies like Oriental Honey Buzzard en route, before Jagdish took us into the woods for a staked out roost of Large-tailed Nightjar. He found us not one but two of them, a pair, roosting on the ground about 10 metres apart. Fantastic views and photos had by all!

A few hundred yards later on, a bird flew up from a wet ditch to the trees - Tickell's Thrush! This was a major target bird for me, and I thoroughly enjoyed excellent views.

It was getting hot and a bit busy again by now, and we headed off along the brick path trail to escape the crowds by the temple. This is reputed to be a good spot for Spotted Creeper, but sadly we did not connect. We did, however, manage to locate a roosting Indian Nightjar, high in a snag of a dead tree. Nilgai and Sambar kept us company in the dry fields beyond the lagoons.

Quick fire lists of birds don't really do Bharatpur justice. Although 2001 had been quite a dry year, there were still tons of waterbirds about - wherever you looked there were Oriental Darters, Indian Pond Herons, Intermediate and Cattle Egrets, Glossy Ibis and more besides. We took a punt ride late in the afternoon - very quiet and relaxing, even when I did the punting for a bit! - scoring further with Shikra, Asian Openbill Stork, White-tailed Plover, more Black-necked Storks, Sarus Crane and numerous Kingfishers. Bharatpur remains one of my favourite birding spots on Earth.

27th December

Today was essentially a non-birding travel day - Bharatpur to Nainital, some 400km....

In dense fog, we left early and headed for Agra, where we did homage to the standard tourist trail at the Taj Mahal. Not that we left our bins behind - River Lapwing, Ruddy Shelduck and lots of Black Kites and Egyptian Vultures were on the Yamuna River behind the Taj.

The journey was indeed long, but really entertaining, passing as we did through big towns and smll villages, the usual chaos of Indian streetlife ensuring interest at every turn, and the countryside leaving us impressed at how many birds there are in intensely farmed areas, at least compared with Britain! Indian Rollers, Black Drongos, shrikes, kingfishers, herons and egrets, doves and mynas everywhere - never a dull moment! We even had brief views of Indian River Tern over the Ganges en route!

We didn't hit the hills until after dark, and Mahinder drove us expertly up precipitous mountain roads to our destination, the hill station of Nainital. It was bizarre to round a bend after 35km of darkness and find a humming little town beside a floodlit lake at 2000m+! We checked in to the Vikram Vintage Inn, and immediately ordered hot water bottles - as expected, it was pretty cold up here!

28th December

Crisp and cold this morning in Nainital - excellent! A quick look around the hotel before breakfast produced a Red-billed Blue Magpie and an Oriental Turtle Dove, but it was clear that bird activity was still subdued, at least until the sun got up properly. So we tanked up on toast etc., and set off through wooded lanes towards town. We made fantastically slow progress - almost every bird was a tick! Within minutes we had scored with Grey Bushchat, Rufous Sibia, Bar-tailed Treecreeper, White-tailed Nuthatch, Blue-fronted and Blue-capped Redstarts, Plumbeous Water Redstart, Himalayan Bulbul, Green-backed and Black-throated Tits, Buff-barred and Grey-hooded Warblers, Oriental White-eye, Streaked Laughing-thrush and numerous Blue Whistling Thrushes. It took us a good two hours to reach the town centre and the cable car lift, leaving us with just time for a cup of tea before getting the first cable car up at 10.30am. It was by now clear that it was neither very cold in Nainital this winter (yet), nor was there much water, so the fabled (and rank) gullies near the hotel were not going to be as good as we'd hoped. In particular, we were struck by the complete lack of Turdus thrushes, contra previous trip reports - it would appear that the relatively mild weather meant that such birds were probably still at higher altitudes and spread thinkly through the forests. Still, you can't have everything!

We were soon at the top of Snow View, enjoying crystal clear views of the Himalayas to the north - do go in the morning, as by lunchtime it was quite hazy, and the mountains were invisible by 3.00pm. Around the ridge at the top we saw Spot-winged Tit, more Treecreepers and Nuthatches, Eurasian and at least one Himalayan Griffon Vulture, Red-billed Chough and Raven, Grey-headed Woodpecker, a cracking Eurasian Jay of the local plain-headed form, and brief views of a Plain-backed Thrush, flashing a Zoothera underwing at us as it flew. Additionally, Lemon-rumped and Blyth's Leaf Warblers were active in bushes along the ridge. We found Bronzed Drongo and Striated Laughing-thrush by the TV tower, and then headed steeply uphill through (largely quiet) woods towards Cheena Peak. Star birds here were three White-browed Shrike-babblers, the sexes so different that we thought we had two species at first! Also, we had Himalayan and Scaly-bellied Woodpeckers, Rufous-naped Tit, numerous Rufous Sibias, and most obscurely but most excitingly, a Scaly-bellied Wren-babbler, feeding in a dank gully.. There is a handy café at the very top of the hill, ideal for resting up before the steep and lengthy decent (knee pain!) down the western end of the ridge, to the so-called 'Higher Fields' (really a village), and thence down to the hotel just as dusk was falling. An absolutely brilliant day in the field, with well over 25 new species!

29th December

We decided to spend today at lower altitude (our legs were telling us to!), and explore the quieter roads on the western and southern sides of the town. It was chilly again, especially out of the sun, but we were soon finding lots of new birds. Early strikes included Hill Partridge, Great Barbet and Brown-fronted Woodpecker, plus a crippling White-capped Water Redstart. A densely vegetated hillside by the Kumaon University produced Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler and Chestnut-crowned Laughing-thrush, and Black-chinned Babblers in the leaf litter. Most of the common birds from yesterday were also about in good numbers, especially Grey-hooded Warbler, Himalayan Bulbul and Green-backed Tit. Mountain Bulbul was new, however. A raucous calling flock of birds resolved themselves into White-throated Laughing-thrushes - at least 125 of therm! They were crossing the road in a loose band, rather like Jays doing a 'follow-my-leader' trick. Lovely, elegant birds.

After tea at the Naini Retreat Hotel, we birded the track to the south of there. Black-headed Jay was a particular highlight here, along with Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush, Himalayan Woodpecker, Chestnut-crowned Laughing-thrush, Red-flanked Bluetail (2, including a crippling adult male - at last!), another Scaly-bellied Wren-babbler, again in a wet gully (good habitat tip there!), 2 Rufous-breasted Accentors, and more Blue-fronted and White-capped Water Redstarts.

By now it was mid afternoon, and we made our way back to town, via a particularly rank open sewer, reputedly a Forktail site - no luck, but many Grey Wagtails, Plumbeous and White-capped Water Redstarts and other delightful congeners of human faeces….

Chris and I took a final turn up the hill beyond the Vikram Vintage Inn - only to have to rush back to get the girls when we found an Asian Barred Owlet in broad daylight! Mahinder did the shortest drive of the trip and ran them up the hill, just in time to see the bird! Chris and I ended the day with another Hill Partridge and Rock Bunting, and a lovely walk, in what we think were the 'Lower Fields', again a village on the side of the next valley over.

We spent the evening eating and playing snooker on the hotel's ancient but serviceable table….and Chris started to feel ill.

30th December

Gut disaster. Chris was really, really ill - he'd been up all night and looked dreadful. Julia and I went for a walk while the others waited to see if there'd be any improvement (there wasn't) - we picked up Lineated Barbet, Black-whiskered Yuhina, Dark-breasted Rosefinch,a very brief Yellow-breasted Greenfinch, Oriental Turtle Dove and Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler. We spent much of the morning consulting and wondering, before calling the doctor, extending our stay for an extra night, and desperately trying to work out the changed logistics. Julia and I quickly dismissed the option of going on without the others - Chris's condition was just too uncertain, and we were on this trip as a team. Jacky was obviously very concerned too, especially after the doctor diagnosed severe gastroenteritic food poisoning. We reckon it was an omelette Chris had the day before in town. He went straight on antibiotics and various other drugs, guzzled Dioralyte, and crashed out. He was quiet enough by lunchtime for us to leave him to sleep, and the rest of us went out to salvage an afternoon in the field at the Mangoli Valley.

En route, we stopped by a hairpin in the road and saw Russet Sparrow in with a flock of at least 30 cracking Altai Accentors. As soon as we reached the village of Bajun, we were seeing good birds - Striated Prinia first, quickly followed by a mixed flock of Laughing-thrushes - mostly White-throated and Streaked, but also in with them Striated, Rufous-crowned and best of all a single, stunning, White-crested. Red-billed Blue Magpie seemed common, and we rapidly picked up new species in the forms of Ashy-throated and Golden-spectacled warblers, Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher, Black-throated Accentor, Grey Tree Pie and Black Francolin. The valley is a lovely, quiet mix of densely wooded slopes and family run farms - Shangri-la! The river was a particular target, especially after a local lad who tagged along confidently recognised a picture of a Forktail! We were not disappointed - in a magical 10 second burst, a Common Kingfisher attracted our attention, and we locked our bins onto a superb Spotted Forktail, right beside an adult male Green-tailed Sunbird! No anti-climax here - one of our biggest target birds nailed successfully. We saw a further two Forktails lower down the valley. Also about were many Long-tailed Shrikes, Red-vented Bulbuls, Jungle Babbler, Grey Bushchats and Stonechats, some of the latter resembling 'Siberian' forms. A fantastic place to go birding.

Back at the hotel, Chris was much improved but far from OK - we collectively crossed our fingers for the next day.

31st December

Chris was much better, though still a bit ropey, but now Julia and I were somewhat iffy….oh dear. We were fine to travel the shortish distance down to Corbett, however, so we packed our bags and hit the road. We didn't want to stop much on the way, but we did still see Russet Sparrow and Red-flanked Bluetail from the van, plus a small party of Kalij Pheasants. We stopped only once - for a Common Green Magpie which frustratingly proceeded to melt away into the trees.

Down in the foothills, the fog was still quite bad - crossing the rivers was weird in the pea-soup miasma - but we did see River Lapwing and various other waders and kingfishers. By the time we reached Corbett, I was feeling really poorly. On arriving at Camp Forktail, about 25km north of Ramnagar, after a brief but crippling Crested Kingfisher, we had to walk 500 yards up a really steep track to find the Camp - bad timing! I had to crash for two hours to have a chance of birding later on. The camp was fantastic (even I could see that!) - very like Backwoods in Goa, but a bit bigger, with a substantial dining area under cover. Comfy beds, thick duvets, clean bathroom attachment tents, excellent food. The guys running the place were very welcoming and professional, and knew their birds! Once I was vaguely serviceable, we had Yellow-bellied and White-throated Fantails, Crested Tree-swift, Grey-breasted Prinia and a superb Brown Fish Owl right by the entrance track.

But our main target was the River Kosi at Ramnagar, one of those mythical places you only read about. In reality, it resembles a sewer in places, and we had quite a lot of hassle from the local under-10s. But what birds! Loads of hirundines about, plus Siberian Chiffchaffs, Yellow-bellied Fantail and circling raptors. However, the main interest was on the river itself. Again encouraged by a local lad's protestations of recognition from the bird book, we pressed north from the water tower, and scanned the rocky river bed. A pair of Great Thick-knees was good enough, but while watching them Chris went all quiet. "Simon", he said, "have a look at this grey bird here." I peered through his 'scope - "WALLCREEPER!" One of my all time dream birds finally scored! "No, you wally [or words to that effect!], IBISBILL!" He looked again - we were both right! A male Ibisbill was perched quietly among the rocks, with Great Thick-knees walking past it, and a Wallcreeper fluttering on the rock in front. It's strange how birding can cure all manner of physical ailments at times like that - I was feeling very much improved!

We arrived back at the Camp in time for a final evening walk down to the river - Chris was relieved to get back Spotted Forktail, and we also had Muntjac Deer, Rufous-bellied Niltava, Slaty Blue Flycatcher and best of all, not one but two Chestnut-headed Tesias. A (probably Large-tailed) Nightjar flew over the Camp at dusk. Exhausted but happy, we ate a simple meal and crashed out well before midnight!

1st January

All were healthy for the first time in days! We set off shortly after daybreak in a jeep, heading for the southern gate into the National Park. We scored en route, with several Red Junglefowl - a poultry reward for our early start, you might think. But things swiftly got hugely exciting, as three enormous Great Hornbills whoomped across the road and disappeared into the dense teak forest. Our circuit inside the park was very productive indeed. Early on, we found a good fruiting fig tree, which supported three different barbet species - Lineated, Brown-headed and Blue-throated. Also, we had several woodpeckers - Grey-capped Pygmy, Fulvous-breasted, Scaly-bellied and a Himalayan Flameback.

Around a village compound in the park, we connected with Variable Wheatear at its only local site, plus Long-billed Pipit (of the extremely dark local form), Blue Rock Thrush, Brown Rock Chat and a crippling male semirufus Black Redstart. We passed close to the area where a group had seen Tiger the day before, and again found very fresh pugmarks. Again, we heard alarm calls, this time from a Muntjac - allegedly the most reliable alarm-caller in the jungle. Sadly, again, the Tiger wouldn't show. This really was our last roll of the dice - we shall simply have to go back!

The birds really did make up for any disappointment, however. We disturbed another two Great Hornbills, and thankfully one of them perched up, showing brilliantly and well enough for Chris to digiscope it! The dry river bed produced another Wallcreeper, and other new birds included Slaty-headed Parakeet (along with Rose-ringed and Alexandrine), Jungle Owlet (along with another Asian Barred Owlet), Changeable Hawk Eagle, Black-hooded Oriole, Large Cuckoo-shrike, 2 separate male Himalayan Rubythroats, Crimson Sunbird, Tickell's Leaf Warbler, a very brief Little Pied Flycatcher, and (unexpected) Rusty-tailed Flycatcher and White-rumped Shama.

Further goodies came in the form of Black Stork, Cinereous (=Eurasian Black) Vulture, Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher, Jungle, Striated and Ashy Prinias, Golden-speactacled, Grey-hooded and Lemon-rumped Warblers, Red-breasted and Slaty Blue Flycatchers, Red-whiskered Bulbul, Crested Tree-swift, White-rumped Needletail, Small and Scarlet Minivets, White-throated and Yellow-bellied Fantails, Velvet-fronted and Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch, Orange-headed Ground Thrush and both Tree-pies.

It really was a bird-packed and very exciting final 'proper' morning for Julia and me - we saw almost 100 species away from significant water in less than five hours!

Back at Camp Forktail, a cracking female Crested Kingfisher allowed close approach, and after a final log call and packing, we said our goodbyes to Chris and Jacky, and left for Delhi at about 2.00 pm. The ride back was smooth and uneventful - back to the familiar plains birds in good numbers, including a huge gathering of at least 300 Cattle Egrets and 200 Black Kites around a gruesome-looking charnel house outside Moradabad. Sadly, we didn't reach the Ganges Bridge before nightfall, so we couldn't try for Gangetic River Dolphin - all we could see there were the distant funeral pyres along the right bank of the holy river.

Back in Delhi, we reached the functional but unexciting Hotel Metro Heights at about 9.00 pm. Crash out time!

2nd January

Dense fog today, and no time anyway! We needed to be at the airport by 11.00 am, so it was breakfast at the hotel with Raj, then a final drive with him and Mahinder to IG Airport. Fond farewells over, we proceeded to get stuck in lengthy delays, most relating to hand luggage searches, rechargeable batteries, silk ties dropped in puddles of questionable fluid, aggressive and unpleasant security officers and typical (unamusing at the end of a trip) Indian bureaucracy. Let's not dwell on it!

Success? No Tigers, but feel the bird quality! Siberian Crane, Wallcreeper, Ibisbill, Himalayan Rubythroat, Great Hornbill, Great Barbet, Crested Kingfisher, Red-billed Blue and Green Magpies, Great Thick-knee, Spotted Forktail, White-crowned Laughing-thrush, Tickell's Thrush and Brown Fish-owl - dream birds the lot of them!

Postscript : Chris and Jacky stayed on for a further two nights - I had to get back to work on 3rd January, frustratingly. During their extra time at Corbett, the National Park was actually inaccessible, since park staff held a one-day strike. Undeterred, they explored areas outside the Park, notching up some 30 extra species (in alphabetical order) :

Ashy Bulbul, Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike,Black-headed Gull, Blue-winged Minla, Brown Dipper, Brown-headed Gull, Chestnut-crowned Bush Warbler, Chukar, Common Rosefinch, Dark-sided Flycatcher, Greater Yellownape, Grey-winged Blackbird, Himalayan Swiftlet, Lammergeier, Lesser Black-backed Gull, Lesser Yellownape, Little Forktail, Long-tailed Minivet, Mountain Hawk Eagle, Nepal House Martin, Orange-bellied Leafbird, Pallas's Fish Eagle, Rufous Woodpecker, Rufous-bellied Eagle, Savannah Nightjar, Small Niltava, Upland Buzzard, Verditer Flycatcher, White-capped Bunting and Yellow-legged Gull.

Incredibly, the team total for the two weeks therefore stands at an amazing 317 species! Such a huge strike rate is unprecedented for any of our previous self-organised trips, outstripping classic venues such as Gambia, Goa and Arizona/California by a considerable margin. Extraordinary success!

Systematic list