This was a Naturetrek tour, co-led by the pair of us. We looked after a group of 14 excellent clients for 10 days in southern Morocco, before enjoyng ourselves on our own for a few days in the High Atlas moutains and in Marrakech.

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From Marrakech to the south

We departed Marrakech early on the Saturday morning, and were soon heading uphill into the Atlas Mountains. Brief stops turned up commoner species such as Nightingale, Booted Eagle and Olivaceous Warbler. Scarcer species such as Hawfinch, Bonelli's Warbler and Barbary Partridge were also noted, and we also had views of several distinctive Atlas forms of familiar species - Chaffinch, Coal Tit, Crossbill and even Goshawk, for example.

After an abortive coffee-stop attempt at Levaillant's Woodpecker, we stopped at Taddert for lunch, where our first Moussier's Redstarts showed up, as well as Spanish Sparrow, Rock Bunting and Blue Rock Thrush. At the top of the Tizi-n-tichka pass we found a small group of Shore Larks (again, of the endemic form), and a big mixed party of Choughs - probably 20+ Red-billed and certainly over 100 Alpine.

Descending into the foothills, we picked up good numbers of migrating Bee-eaters and hirundines, plus Corn Bunting, Black-eared Wheatear and Montagu's Harrier.

Despite a small thermostat problem one of the vans, we reached El Kelaa shortly after dusk.

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El Kelaa/Tagdilt/gorges area

We had two days around this area, spending each morning out on the Tagdilt steppe just east of Boulmane des Dades. Here, we scored with a plethora of top desert species - Thick-billed, Temminck's Horned, Short-toed, Lesser Short-toed and Thekla Larks, Red-rumped and Desert Wheatears, Cream-coloured Courser, Trumpeter Finch and Crowned Sandgrouse. Raptors included numerous Montagu's Harriers, including a stunning jet-black morph bird. Even a migrant Quail added to the species list here.

Up in the gorges of the Dades and Todra rivers, we found a good selection of lower-altitude montane birds - Blue Rock Thrush, Crag Martin, Bonelli's Eagle and Black Wheatear, but the star bird here was a crippling male Tristram's Warbler in song. Superb! A Black Stork migrating high overhead was another surprise.

Next, it was onwards to the far south-east of Morocco - on the drive to Erfoud, we scored with a party of Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters over a small village en route.

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Erfoud and Merzouga

We arrived in bad sandstorm conditions, but luckily these cleared up overnight, and we had a perfectly calm morning for our expedition into the fringes of the Sahara desert. Dawn broke over the massive Erg Chebbi sand dunes, revealing plenty of water in the lake by Café Yasmina. We soon started scoring with a decent selection of waders, plus Gull-billed Tern, Ruddy Shelduck and Spotted Crake. Passerines included very tame White-crowned Black Wheatears, plus Saharan Olivaceous Warbler (form reiseri), Bluethroat and many warblers and Redstarts. Brown-necked Raven was also very obvious. Stars of the show, however, were seven Spotted Sandgrouse which materialised by the lake to drink.

Nearby, we located not one but two pairs of the very localised Desert Sparrow, and then headed out into the desert proper. We soon fund both Bar-tailed Desert and Hoopoe Larks, but sadly the wind got up once more, and only very brief views were had (by one of us!) of a Desert Warbler. The hunt for a Houbara Bustard was successful, however - we had distant views in incredible sandstorm conditions, before the bird flew off and away into the desert.

Merzouga lake was an almost complete write-off in the afternoon, shrouded as it was in dust and haze, and we retreated rather earlier than we would have liked!

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Westward bound

Soon after leaving Erfoud next morning, we stopped at a traditional cliff site near Rissani, and succeeded in finding not one but two Pharaoh Eagle Owls - they were recently fledged juveniles, lurking under boulders not far from the nest site. A big bonus not far from here was a pair of Lanner Falcons feeding small chicks - a real bonus.

The dust storms started once more, but not before we had added Fulvous Babbler to the list, and later in the day we also saw Rufous Bushchat by the Draa river bridge, and a few Desert Larks in the mountains north of Agdz. But today was mostly travelling, and we were pleased to reach Ouarzazate by dusk.

The following morning, we checked the Ouarzazate reservoir, seeing a god many waterbirds, including Night and Purple Herons, Spoonbill, Marbled Duck and Avocet. Other nice birds here included both Ashy-headed and Moroccan Wagtails.

A great little stop by the Iriri river turned up a plethora of migrants, including Orphean and Melodious Warblers, another Rufous Bushchat, Ortolan Bunting, Whinchat and Spotted Flycatcher.

Later in the afternoon, we dropped down into the Sous valley, with its famous argan forests (and tree-climbing goats), seeing more Bonelli's Eagles, Tawny Pipit and Spotted Crake, before finishing the day near Taroudant with a pair of Black-shouldered Kites.

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Agadir and the coast

After spending the night in Taroudant, we headed briskly west, via a stunning pair of Black-bellied Sandgrouse in roadside fields, and hit the coast at Agadir. Heading north, we reached Tamri mid-morning, and it was not long before we located a couple of Bald Ibises in flight. This was one of our biggest target species - a critically endangered bird, with perhaps fewer than 300 left in the wild. The views were not great, so we searched by the estuary, and it became clear than good numbers of Ibises were feeding on the opposite side. Although we did not get close views, we were incredibly privileged to see no fewer than 63 Bald Ibises in total - over 20% of the entire world population.

Other good birds here included Zitting Cisticola, Moroccan Cormorant, Audouin's Gull, Gannet and Raven. After lunch (a tagine by the beach), we checked into our hotel in Agadir, and headed down to the Sous estuary (in yet more high winds!) for a look around - Flamingoes, Black Tern, Moroccan Magpies, Spoonbill and Bonelli's Eagle were some of the birds there to greet us, but the star was undoubtedly a Red-necked Nightjar in flight and briefly perched on a sand pile, giving quick telescope views. A lifer!

Next day, we headed for the Oued Massa, in lovely sunny weather, and scored well and heavily - more Moussier's Redstarts, a singing Black-headed Tchagra, three migrant Wood Warblers, Squacco Heron, Cream-coloured Courser and yet another Bonelli's Eagle. We also enjoyed plenty of Spanish Wagtails, and a very few Brown-throated Sand Martins.

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Marrakech bound

A 0500 next morning, we headed for Marrakech with the three clients who had early flights, arriving in good time for their 1100 departures. After meeting up with the rest for a farewell in town, we went our separate ways, and set off to explore the Medina of Marrakech. We enjoyed the souks, the Djemma el Fna square, the orange juice, the dried fruits, the spices - everything in fact!

Rather overwhelmed, we spent the next day eating and doing some sightseeing (palaces, museums, tombs, ruins), and picked up our hire car from the airport in the afternoon.

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Into the hills

Within two hours, we were at a little over 3000m in the High Atlas mountains at Oukaimeden, ticking off special birds like Crimson-winged Finch (30 of them), Alpine and Red-billed Choughs and Seebohm's Wheatear.

After rather a chilly night in a not very good hotel, we had an absolutely blinding morning amongst the alpine meadows and rocky slopes - we added Shore Lark, Moussier's Redstart, both "ordinary" Rock Thrush and Blue Rock Thrush, Alpine Accentor, Mistle Thrush (of the subtle local form), Dipper, Firecrest, Black Redstart and Ring Ouzel - fantastic montane birding.

The descent started fabulously too - diligent checking of the walnut groves around the village of Ait-lekak turned up the major target bird for the trip - a fine male Levaillant's Woodpecker, an Atlas endemic.

And that was it, birdwise, really, apart from a Roller on some wires in the Atlas foothills We had almost cleared up, so we headed back to Marrakech, and enjoyed another day of "ordinary tourism". We had a great time back in the souks and around the old town, eating probably a bit too much, but really enjoying our last few hours in Morocco. Julia succeeded with some jewellery, and rather improbably Simon came home with an antique astrolabe!

We made it to our flight on the Thursday morning with plenty of time to spare, and finally got home at about 2100 at night. A great little trip!

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