Berthelot's Pipit

A relaxing winter break, with Pilot Whales, both endemic pigeons, Tenerife Blue Chaffinch and all the other endemic bird species and forms.

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A short week’s break in the sun, chosen partly for ease of travel, as we could fly there from Bournemouth. There are also a few endemic species and sub-species of birds to look for, and a highly accessible volcano!

We had a very straightforward flight (with no screaming babies!) and an easy drive to our destination of Puerto de la Cruz on the north coast. As usual, Simon managed to get us an upgrade to a room with the largest balcony in the hotel, from which we started our bird list with a Peregrine (apparently not a Barbary Falcon), Canary Island Chiffchaffs, Monk Parakeets, and several Monarch butterflies. The hotel was perfectly placed for a stroll into town for dinner most evenings; however, climbing the steep slope back when full was not so easy! Puerto de la Cruz is more developed and bigger than when we last visited in 2005, but is still completely different from and more civilised than the south coast resorts on the island. We did find several lovely quiet vegan/vegetarian restaurants, notably our favourite, El Limon, to which we returned several times.

Day trips included the laurisilva at Monte de Agua near Ergos, where we saw Bolle’s Pigeons well, as they fed quietly in the trees. On the way back from Ergos, we stopped at Mirador de la Grimona to view a group of the other endemic pigeon, the Laurel Pigeon, perched on a steep slope opposite. Better views of both pigeons this time around! Other birds seen included Kestrel, Buzzard and Sparrowhawk (all endemic forms), and we also saw Bermuda Buttercup and a wonderful array of cacti, euphorbias, and the odd endemic Dragon Tree.

We spent several days at Mount Teide, which was a longish drive around bendy narrow roads, with a cable car ride at the end. On the way there on the first day, at the visitors’ centre, there were close Tenerife Blue Chaffinches and Canaries hopping around the car park, and plenty of Atlantic Lizards. At the top of the Mount Teide cable car, we had stunning views of the whole island in gorgeous, bright, crisp sunshine. The volcanic terrain was spectacular, with visible fumaroles and lava flows. Luckily, we got there early when the area was relatively quiet. On our return, the fog settled in, and the crowds descended, so we returned to our hotel feeling smug. The second trip was later in the week, and we stayed lower, exploring the amazing volcanic rock structures such as Roques de Garcia. Here we saw Berthelot’s Pipit coming to crumbs and Bath White butterfly, but sadly no Spectacled Warbler.

Another day was spent walking in laurisilva in Anaga National Park. This was very misty and eerily atmospheric, and we found lots of the local Goldcrest subspecies, and Plain Swifts from a mirador. Again, there were lots of people later in the day, so we retreated to a remote mountainside track for the best picnic site ever! We parked overlooking a deep valley, with steep terraces opposite populated with hobbit-hole-style homes set into the mountain rock, with turf or rock roofs. On the way back, we found Spoonbill and the newly-established Ruddy Shelduck on some small ponds, and finished the day celebrating with a shot of the local hooch, the aromatic Herbias liqueur.

One day was spent lazily around the town and hotel, but we did walk to the local Botanical Garden in the morning, and enjoyed the shade and cool. There were spectacular palms, endemic trees, and some amazing flowers here. The Tenerife Speckled Wood butterfly was common, and again we missed the crowds by arriving early doors: always the best policy, we’ve found.

No holiday is complete without a boat trip, and so we drove to Puerto Colon.Horrible place full of fat, old tourists and noise, shops, restaurants etc. We felt completely out of place dressed from head to toe in black with no flesh visible! But the boat trip was great. It was on a small RIB with only eight people and it was quite a bumpy ride, but in truth the sea was relatively calm today. The guide was very informative, and we saw several groups of Pilot Whales, including mums with babies, and large, old males, plus a Loggerhead Turtle. Brilliant!

Overall, it was a great week of sunshine in the midst of the British winter, with stunning volcanic scenery, good food and wine, and excellent views of endemic
wildlife.